30/30 to 32/40

[toot]

can 32/40's be made from 30/ 30's or 32 WIN SPL? if so how?

[Bent Ramrod]

If you start with .30-30 shells, lube with Imperial Sizing Wax and run them (gradually) into a .32-40 full-length sizing die with the expander/decapper rod removed. It gets pretty stiff down near the base of the shell, so I screw the die in gradually, press the shell in and out, make sure the lube hasn’t migrated away from any surface, screw die in a little more, and continue until it bottoms out.

Then I put about 9 grains Unique into the shell with Cream of Wheat and a wax wad and fireform.

You should be able to leave the expander/decapper in the die if you use .32 Special shells, but you will still need to fireform to turn the slight neck juncture into a taper.

Both shells will come up a little shorter than real .32-40 shells, but they will still be usable.

[RichardB]

Same technique but use 38-55 brass instead. They will come out at about the right length.

RichardB

[Deaconllb]

I reform 30-30 to 32-40 I lube outside of case and a small amount of lube on the inside maybe 1/4 inch and run it through the die back and forth a little at a time with expander installed works good as long as you don't try to do it in one pass, from my research they say 32 specials works better than 30-30 because the 32 is already at 321 and you do not have to expand from 308 to 321 I am in the process of getting some new 32 special brass to give it a try. as for the 38-55 they make a 38-55 long brass and from my research they come out at the right length or a tad long.

Deaconllb

[AntiqueSledMan]

Hello Toot,

What I did was to run a .32 Cal expander through, then sized with the 32-40 Die. I also used the RCBS 32-170-FN cast bullet, which seats taller than the original 32-40 bullet. I trimmed cases to meet the OAL of the cartridge to feed in my 1893 Marlin.

Hope this helps, AntiqueSledMan.

[toot]

ANTIQUESLEDMAN, and all others who responded, thanks for the help. i am in business now, shooting both cast and the other ones.

[Deaconllb]

What I really would like to find is some true 32-40 brass or loaded factory ammo but at 75/100 a box on Gun Broker just too steep for me.

Deavonllb

[bob208]

I won a match with a 94 rifle with cases formed as in post number 2. I loaded with 35 gr. 2f through a 24 inch drop tube. the bullet was the lyman 165 gr. listed for the 8 m/m lubed with spg.

[toot]

bob208, were they .321 or .323 dia. with a gas check? hand lubed or sized?

[Texas by God]

I have a handful of old R-P factory rounds I can disassemble and send the brass and bullets to you. PM me if you want them, neighbor.
Thomas

[Deaconllb]

Thanks Texas is the brass 32-40 how many I am willing to pay I have plenty of bullets

Deaconllb

[AntiqueSledMan]

Here are some Reloading pages I have.
I converted to pdf.

Enjoy, AntiqueSledMan.

[725]

Wonderful. Thanks.

[Thin Man]

I started loading and forming 32-40 ammo about 20+ years ago. My first efforts were with 30-30 brass but later changed to 32 Spl. to avoid having to open the 30-30 necks and concerns about annealing. My handloads are mild due to the rifle being a 1910 or so age Winchester 1894 rifle. The bore had suffered from black powder loads and would not hold cast boolits. Not a problem, with the 32 Spl. brass most of the factory jacketed 32 bullets seat to crimp at the cannelure and give the round a correct COL. This point has been overlooked by most (or all) of the big magazine writers who have spoken about this cartridge and "survival" handloading with brass that is much shorter than the original cases. The cartridge's long, straight neck allows this to work without concerns and accuracy (group size) is better than one would have hoped for. Reasonably mild loads hit right at the sights, best groups so far have been from IMR4198. Good luck with your project.

[toot]

TEXAS by god i sent you a pm on the offer. just got back from vac. thanks.