Anybody forming 375 Winchester cases from 30/30 brass, What is the process,
Anybody forming 375 Winchester cases from 30/30 brass, What is the process,
Lots of people. A search should turn up the process.
Most people who are shooting cast bullets in their .375 Win.'s are using the Starline 38-55 Win. brass until they can obtain some proper brass. If I did,'t have any other choice but to reform 30-30 or buy 38-55 brass I would use the 38-55 Win. I use 38-55 Win. load data in my 94 BB and cast boolits with excellent accuracy.
I formed .375 cases using once fired R-P brass.
I used Bullseye without any filler or bullet by putting a charged case in the rifle with the muzzle pointed into the air.
I had to start low to work up a fire forming charge.
The charge got higher than I was comfortable with yet some cases did not fire form well.
I would suggest you plug the case with wax or a .31 caliber lead ball to insure the shoulder and neck blow out completely.
Rather than use the thin wall Starline .38-55 brass I would prefer the thicker WW .38-55 brass if you can find it.
EDG
How about a light charge of TightGroup to be determined during the testing with a filler of Cream of Wheat or some such thing with a tissue paper wad to seal the case mouth. Tissue to just be stuffed in and only enough as necessary. Think that would work
I form 400 Whelen cases of 30-06 brass, which is almost a straight bodied case like the 375 Win. I do it by using 14 grs of Red Dot powder. A 40 S&W case full of grit on top of the powder change. A wad of tissue paper pushed in on top of the grit. And I seal it with a crayon pushed onto the neck of the case. I hold the rifle muzzle up and pull the trigger. The tissue falls like snow, the crayon doesn't leave the yard and my brass turns out great.
CA Dude
Now thanks That was good info, Just what I was looking for. I will reduce the charge on the fast powder and increase until I get a decent fireform. Now that I know how to make the cases I will buy the rifle
I made up 100 out of Federal 30/30 brass. Loaded 7 grs Bullseye and filled case with cornmeal
muffin mix. Still a Muzzel up proposition. Used a TC 375W and all 100 blew out nicely. These come
out just a tad short of speck. Only loaded these at 38/55 levels with cast boolits. Have used them
in TC, Marlin lever and Ruger #3s. Don't trust them for hot jacketed loads but some guys are doing it and haven't herd of case separation yet.
I have no experience with Starline 38/55 all my 38/55 brass is Win. The mention of Starline being
lighter/ thinner that Win reminds me of a question I have. The Starline 375Win, is it the same case
as the 38/55, just shortened & head stamped? If this is the case I would just blow out 30/30s. I
don't have that worry anymore I've got plenty of new Win brass and 1x fired, not to mention a
large stash of 2x-5x brass, all Win.
Originally a .375 case was heavier than .30 -30 brass.
Some .30-30 cases I have checked are just as thick as .375s.
EDG
I've been fire-forming .30-30 cases into "shooter" (short) .38-55 and .32-40 cases for years. You'll have a better success rate if you anneal your cases first (about 1/2 way down the body) as it will help to prevent splits, especially if the brass you are forming has been fired several times before as .30-30. I prime the cases (usually with live primers I have saved from pulled down ammunition so that I'm not wasting new, fresh primers) then charge them with 5 to 8 grains of whatever fast burning shotgun or pistol powder I have on hand. (Lately it's been Nitro 100 Trap powder since I have quite a bit of it right now.) Using a wooden dowel I press 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue down onto the powder charge and then fill the case to just short of the mouth with bulk yellow cornmeal. I top that off with another 1/4 sheet of toilet tissue seated with the wooden dowel. Head to the range, chamber a round, point the muzzle of the rifle straight up into the air (the cases form straight and not lopsided that way) and fire-form. You'll get a light rain of cornmeal drifting back down onto your shooting position so wear a hat ...
I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!
Great info guys keep um coming Thanks John N
... and it smells great!
I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!
i bought the tapered expander from lee. just lightly anneal the 30-30 and run them into the sizer die with the tapered expander.
I turned down an OLD RCBS 30 Carbine decapping die stem to the correct O.D. on the lathe, NEW Remington 30-30 cases were dipped into the ISDW and in a simple working of the press handle I had 375/38-55 short brass, no loss out of the 100 cases.
ASE master certified engine machinist
Brake & Alignment specialist, ricer to class 8
I have usually found Remington brass to have a good neck anneal so they tend to form both up and down with few problems.
EDG
http://www.gunstop.com/products/relo...iber-30-to-375
I thought Lyman made one of these also but could not find it. I have used 30-30 brass in my 375 contender and never had a problem.
so simple a cave man can do it!
corn meal shot at the range makes the shooters ask who is baking cookies? same with rice crispies.
REVERAND AL, when you make 32/40 out of 30/30 do you have to trim them be for or after fire forming?
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |