Rancher1913 is there a chance the electric motor part is burnt up. If so tou could probably get a winding company to rewind
Just a thought
Rancher1913 is there a chance the electric motor part is burnt up. If so tou could probably get a winding company to rewind
Just a thought
[SIZE=4][B]Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder
I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!
http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH
I am not crazy my mom had me tested
Theres a fine line between genius and crazy .. I'm that line
and depending on the day I might just step over that line !!!
the way I understand it, the compressor locks up if it gets a whiff of any refrigerant other than the special toyota stuff, and takes the electric motor out as well as most of the dash components. we got lucky and cought it before it trashed the whole system. funny thing is nobody but toyota service people have touched the car.
Not trying to get you to hype the product, but to ask them to stand by
what they said they stood for.
What other numbers to you have so far??
Give it a try
For customer inquiries, please contact the Toyota Customer Experience Center at 1-800-331-4331,
NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95
yup maybe in the 70 and 80s Toyotas were more reliable then the big three. today the only thing I Toyota has that a chev or ford does is buyers willing to pay full price for them and higher repair bills for the same failure as the domestic brands. 200000 miles is routine today for about any manufacture. Bottom line is if your driving ANY car or truck with 150-200k on it and haven't had a lick of trouble. Havent had to put a starter, alternator, ball joint, tie rod end ect replaced I sure don't want to put my grandkids in it and head out across country tommarow. I guess you can either maintain it properly or run it into the ground to the point its unsafe. Kind of like the guy that was at the local repair shop when I was having my tires rotated. He had an old corolla that had a tie rod fall right off going down the road. He said it had 180k on it and that was the first time something broke! Got to wonder what else is about to fall off going down the road. Big difference in claiming your motor lasted 200k without a penny being spent then an entire car. Anyone that knows me knows I don't like Fords. But that is just a personal preference. There as good as any chev or ram or Toyota on the road.
Then we can look at it another way. Even if your Toyota pickup lasted 200k and my chev did the same and I had to spend 500 bucks on a starter you didn't. Factor in that my chev (or ford or ram) gets at least 3 mpg better fuel economy and id bet the gas savings would have paid for 3 starters. ME? I dump them at no more then a 100k. I let someone else deal with the NORMAL wear and tear parts that WILL fail no matter who made them. One thing is for sure. Anything mechanical can and will eventually wear out whether an American put it together or a jap. Like Smoke said. Doesn't matter what brand you buy things can fail. Id bet Toyota of late has had as many or more recalls for safety issues then any of the big three. If you like your Toyota, don't mind getting 3mpg less gas mileage and have 5-10k more to spend on a comparable new truck that's 2 or 3 years behind in technology then buy one. Me I see LOTS of rusty OLD American pickups still driving down the road.
total bs. I could probably find a chart that rates chev vegas or yugos as being reliable. heres one that rates chev at the top and Toyota at the bottom. http://www.jdpower.com/cars/articles...iable%20Trucks
We drove the Toyota Sienna Van, purchased new, for 14 years. Now we drive a Rav4, purchased used. I have a 1995 Toyota T100 that I drive to the range and lake. Runs like a top.
I am not a fan of any of them, except those that crank and run when I want to go somewhere.
A lady that we know said her Grandfather said he would: "Rather push a Ford than drive a Chevy." Or, it could have been: "Push a Chevy that drive a Ford." That is so funny.
Have a blessed day,
Leon
I changed the discussion from cars to trucks. That was on me. My list from Consumer Reports was for all vehicles, cars and trucks. I trust Consumer Reports over your list from JD Powers, but pick who you trust most. I will stick with Consumer Reports. As for starter motors, what is the manufacturer recommended replacement milage number? There is no such thing.
we have tried the low level phone numbers and get nothing but a sympathetic ear " sorry to hear that, nothing we can do" which is total bs.
I really need one of the hidden phone numbers for someone that can do something, because having to shell out 3 grand for a something that they know is a problem and should have been addressed just pissses me off.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Are there any facts to support the notion that Consumer Reports is biased in any way, including cars/trucks????
I have been reading CR for almost 50 years.
A great non-profit that accepts no advertising and pays retail anonymously for every product tested. As unbiased as it gets.
I would say it is common knowledge that they are a Gold Standard for consumers.
Still want to know manufacturer recommendation on starter motor recommendations?
Most Toyota's here in the states are made in the North America . NOT Japan:
http://toyota.custhelp.com/app/answe...u.s.-market%3F
And they have build several USA plants since that info was published.
Ford, GM, and Chrysler cars/trucks have just as many if not MORE foreign-sourced parts and sub-assemblies as Toyota.
bangerjim
While I don't have the knowledge and intel that you have on the Big 3...I do have some anecdotal evidence that others who buy new cars don't have. I like cars and have a passion for changing up what I own ever few years...and I am thrifty/cheap whatever you want to call it, so I try to buy a used car cheaply enough to get that last 50K miles out of it, and consider the gamble of what repairs I have to make are hopfully less than monthly payments.
My current toyota and previous honda have had few repairs, both were bought with over 200Kmi. I sold the honda when it reached 254K and the rust was scarry...now my current car, the toyota has 245k.
American cars I've owned in the last two decades were, 98 Buick park ave, 3 different Jeeps from the 90s, dodge dakota, ford escort wagon, chev pickup, chev van...and they all needed more expensive repairs than the two japanese cars...and none of the American cars made it to 250k without being too scarry to drive on a daily basis.
Yep that is all anecdotal, so it is, what it is.
I may buy a American brand car again, but it has to 'speak' to me...if I'm just buying something to drive, it'll be a japanese brand...I've never owned a subaru...that may be next? But the current toyota I own ('05 matrix) is still in amazing shape, I expect it to hit 300K before I am too scarred to drive it.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
My suggestion at this point is to contact a local mechanic regarding this. I live in a small town, but we do have a couple of mechanics here that specialize in import automobiles. I have had no issues to speak of with my Tacomas, but if I did, I would consult the local shop before going to the Toyota dealer. I think it's common knowledge that the dealerships charge FAR more than a regular mechanic normally would.
Don't indulge the population of the Trustafarian People's Socialistic Republic of Boulder! Dump the Prius
Get hold of your local BBB and see what arbitration processes they have in your state. Most states (NY does) has a process where you can go through binding arbitration with the auto company. I've done that several times and won each time. In one case I was working as a quality engineer for GM and my phone rang at work. It was someone from GM Zone that wanted to know if they were calling a GM number or not. I told them they were. They were a bit surprised that a "loyal" GM employee would be taking them to arbitration. I told them it wasn't the first time. In that case they took the SUV back for numerous problems and gave me another new vehicle at no out of pocket cost to me. I've consoled several other people on how to walk through the process and each one of them either won their case or got at least half from the manufacturer. You have nothing to lose by going after them. In most cases they lose but don't like to tell everyone that.
I have one of the last CV off the line a 04 (not a police car) that was my parents .. I got it when the doctors took my fathers licence away at 82
it has been in at least 2 axcidents hit in front end (my mother)
Most of my repairs have been rough road related Control arms replaced front and rear / ball joints/ struts / shocks
Canadian winters = brakes/ calipers
I had to rent a car for a week wifes ford focus tranny decided to end its life at 348000 km
motor was still good only down 1/2 a quart at a oil change which was good as wife did not check it
Rented a Dodge Journey SUV/Crossover (top of the line leather/ nav/ sunroof) for the week
wife drove the CV
was in the dodge less than 5 min and hated it ( brand new had not even had a oil change yet 2k)
it clunked -- it shifted badly 8 speed .. it groaned .. fuel... used more gas than the CV
Was very glad to be back in the CV at the end of the week
was not going to replace trans in the focus --- 11 year old car --- canadian winters
Replaced Focus with a 2018 Mazda CX5 very happy with it so far
Before getting all wrapped up with any BBB kerflullel, you might wanna read your Prius owner's manual. If I am not mistaken, you will find a statement in there that reads something like this: "Three (3) year or 30,000 mile (whichever comes 1st) warrant on all NON-DRIVE TRAIN components". You have exceeded that warranty. Most cars have that type of warranty, depending on the maker. Read your Prius book.
Now, specifically about your Prius A/C system: you have a hybrid drive in there, just like my Lexus 400H and 450H. And every other maker that "borrowed" the hybrid technology from Toyota. The gasoline engine starts and stops depending on where/how your are driving. The A/C compressor does NOT run off a belt off the gasoline engine like in standard cars/trucks. It runs off a high voltage DC electric motor. You would not want your A/C to stop when you were stuck in traffic!?! I can sit in a parking lot for 20-25 minutes, the gasoline engine shuts off almost immediately, but the A/C keeps cranking all the while. Once the big high voltage hybrid LiON batteries under the back seat reach a low point, the motor kicks back on and charges them up to a certain point and then shuts off again. I think the Prius system works exactly the same.
THAT is why your A/C repairs are so costly. You are not dealing with an old style belt driven compressor system that any local grease monkey repair shop can easily replace. Or a weekend all-thumbs home repairman can get at AutoZone or RockAuto.
Good luck on your adventure in the land of auto repairs! I leave all my auto repair work up to the Toyota and Lexus local dealers.
bangerjim
bangerjim, I know what the warranty says but can you honestly say that you would not be pissed and fight for a warranty on a major item that really should last for at least triple the warranty period.
thanks waksupi, I will look into that.
thanks nsb, I will explore that as well.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |