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Thread: My 3D Printed Extended Magazines

  1. #61
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bulldogger View Post
    Congratulations on your success after hard work. It looks great.

    I noticed Amazon now sells music wire. If they are not on your ignore list, you can find spools there for a very good price.

    On the strength of print versus orientation, you might try a new Slicer program. For instance, the new version of Cura I downloaded a month or two ago is vastly changed from a few years ago. It allows you to select the pattern of the infill; you can print zigzags, herringbone, it's crazy the choices they give. It is well beyond the back and forth pattern that the early versions used.

    I've also learned in practice, after some kind advice, that it is beneficial to my setup to print at higher temperatures that I would have otherwise. I now print ABS with my heated bed at 110C and nozzle at 235C now, and strength has improved.

    So between those two, there might be something to help you get your mags even stronger.

    Bulldogger
    Hi Bulldogger; and thanks for the good word.

    I never thought of checking amazon. I have an account with them so that would certainly simplify things. I'll check with them as soon as I've finished this reply.

    I'm presently printing the ABS I'm using at a temperature of 245c with my print bed set at 110. Since I'm using a "Raft" at the base of these prints the printer automatically lays down the first few layers at 250c just to get it to adhere to the bed. After that my ABS prints seem to be holding strong regardless of the print orientation. I did have problems initially when I tried printing the magazine bodies with Carbon Fiber filament. They came out looking great but the trade off was that they were also much more brittle than the ABS filament. I think I have that hurdle pretty well under control now.

    I'm using a Flashforge Creator Pro 3D printer. It came with a proprietary slicer software included. Once I figured out how to use it, it seems to be more than what I need as of right now. I still don't know how to use the vast majority of the features of this slicer software. The software of the printer itself is preset (more or less) for printing with various types of filament. These are just base settings configured to using the filaments that Flashforge hopes you'll keep buying from them but being that I'm a cheap-skate, I buy the cheapest filaments I can right now. Once I dial in the correct print recipes for these cheaper filaments I try not to mess with any of the other settings other than the temperature, support and raft settings. My prints are now coming out fairly decent for what I need. Whenever possible, I will keep trying to improve on them though.

    Thanks again for the heads up on the Amazon thing.

    HollowPoint

  2. #62
    Boolit Buddy



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    Happy to help. I have good results with two coats of disappearing purple Elmer's glue stick on my print bed (I print on glass). It's water soluble, so no print however bad can stay stuck forever (if you keep the surface wet). I can stretch prints to 2-3 times between washing and recoating if I add a little glue along the edges of wherever the previous print was lifted. I too use brim and raft, depending on the size and duration of the print. Sounds like you're on the right track.
    BDGR

  3. #63
    Boolit Master
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    Trial and Error-Trial and Error-Trial and Error

    I just wanted to show you where I'm at so far. I printed out the fifth iteration of this extended magazine design. Like the previous two print outs this one also worked but only with ten rounds or less loaded into the magazine.

    The rimmed 303 British cases make it necessary to have the shape of the follower and the shape and the force of the magazine spring Spot-On in order for me to be able to load all fifteen cartridges and then to be able to cycle them into the chamber reliably.

    I've been using the same home made magazine spring for each different iteration of this magazine design so it's no wonder I'm now having problems loading all 15 rounds without the cartridges wanting to bind in the front-to-back tilted position of the magazine follower. Through the process of trial and error I'm having to figure out the precise angles and dimensions of the magazine body, the magazine spring and the follower so that they all work together seamlessly to give me a reliable 3D printed magazine. Thanks to Bulldogger, I found some useable music wire online that is thick enough and long enough that will work for this application. I just have to order some up now.

    The 3D printed K31 Swiss extended 12 round magazine I recently finished was a piece of cake compared to this Lee Enfield magazine. No matter; I'm sure I'll figure it out given enough time. I'm going to try to print a copy using transparent ABS filament. This will allow me to see exactly where the sticking points are inside the magazine as I'm loading each of the rounds into the magazine. I should have done this to begin with but I never really thought of it till now. It probably would have saved me alot of hassles.

    Due to some emergency home repairs, for the time being this project is temporarly on hold till I can fix a plumbing leak in a hard to reach area of the house. I should be back on this project by the end of next week. Wish me luck.

    HollowPoint
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  4. #64
    Boolit Master
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    Well, I got that roll of transparent ABS filament finally. What a piece of krapp roll of filament this is turning out to be. In my attempt to figure out the correct print recipe for it I've gone though twelve failed prints thus far. The first three prints failed because I hadn't noticed that about an inch depth into that the filament roll there was a tangle in the line at about every three or four yards into that roll. It would start to print fine then I'd leave it unattended and it would reach the point in the print where the tangle was so my printer could no longer pull filament off of the roll. It would just go through the print motions leaving me scratching my head wondering what went wrong.

    Once I figured that out I found that the next four attempts were starting out Ok but then immediately after my "Raft" was laid down and the first few layers of my print looked promising, I'd then start to experience undersized prints until the print nozzle had printed to about an inch above the heated bed, then the print would begin to conform to the specs of my CAD models. It turned out that the heated bed temperature was to blame for those failed four attempts.

    The following last four failed attempts were mainly caused by me trying to dial in the bed temperatures and the extruder temperature so as to get my printer to turn out a print that conformed to my CAD models. This "Transparent" ABS filament isn't truly transparent but, it's clear enough that it should help me to figure out exactly what interior dimension-tweaks I need to make in order to get all 15 of those 303 British rimmed cartridges to load without the resistance I'm getting now with the black ABS magazine body.

    My clear Lee Enfield magazine body is printing even as I write this update. Unless I run into some issues somewhere during the printing of this prototype, it should be finished tomorrow morning sometime. It's a 14 hour and 23 minute print; if you can believe that. I'd round it out to a 15 hour print.

    I'll post a pic of the finished print, along with the small mountain of failed prints once I have it all cleaned up. Also; I ordered some more music wire. I was going to order it from Amazon but I didn't think I'd ever use a 124' roll of the stuff so I was able to find a ten-foot length of the same diameter music wire on Ebay for a bit less in price. It should be here next week.

    I'll be back within the next few days, hopefully I'll be able to show you all a magazine body that's transparent enough for you to see what all of my long winded posts have been about.

    HollowPoint

  5. #65
    Boolit Master
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    "Transparent" ABS Filament is NOT really transparent.

    Lee Enfield 3D Printed 15 Round Extended Magazine. I was hoping that I could give you a clearer view of my "Transparent" 3D printed magazine body with all 15 cartridges loaded so you could see with your own eyes exactly what I'm seening as I hold it up against the light. I'm afraid I couldn't get any of my photo attempts to come out any clearer than this.

    Anyway; here it is with all 15 rounds loaded. I had to remove the floor plate and let the spring hang out the bottom of the mag body in order load all the rounds but, it gives you some idea of what I was talking about in my previous post regarding this Lee Enfield magazine project.

    Notice how the cartridges in the middle of the stack are tilted upward as they should be but the front edge of the follower is stuck hard against the front-most inside wall. Also, the top-most cartriges are laying horizontally while all the rest are tilted upward at the front. This is all due to the interplay between the follower and the magazine spring. The Follower and the Magazine Spring will have to be re-configured.

    I found the new ten foot roll of music wire I order sitting in my mail box this morning so with any luck I'll be able to play around with the reconfiguration of my Magazine Follower and Mag-Spring this coming week.


    HollowPoint
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  6. #66
    Boolit Master
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    I see what's happening now. I can see where the hang up in this magazine's overall design geometry is. My newly made magazine spring turned out pretty good. It worked just as I'd hoped it would but, the two geometry changes I've made to my follower have only been incrementally helpful.

    I'll post pics of those changes in my follower's design/geometry within a couple of days but, both those design changes have improved the loading of the magazine by a couple more rounds each time. I've actually gotten all 15 rounds to load but at rounds 14 and 15, the first cartridge sitting on the follower is tilted at such an angle that the top edge of the cartridge-rim is caught and held fast by the horizontal layers that my 3D printer has laid down as it prints the back wall of the magazine.

    There's no way I can get a file or a piece of sand paper in there to sand or file the areas where the hang ups are occurring without doing more damage than good so, it looks like I'll have to draw up a new magazine model from scratch again. I knew I'd have to do this eventually after printing up the "Transparent" mag body I recently printed so that's not really a big deal for me. It shouldn't take to long because I have plenty of practice now. The really hard part is trying to describe what I'm talking about with the written word.

    If I hadn't printed that last "Transparent" copy of my magazine body I would have never known what the hang up was. I even tested my latest magazine follower in one of the earlier 3D prints to see how many cartridges I could get into it. I got the same outcome there too. I was able to load up to 12 cartridges before I started feeling resistance. Actually, loading the magazine is now the easy part. It's getting those cartridges to spring back up under the spring tension that's causing the hang up. I can force all fifteen rounds into the magazine but, the point at which I start getting resistance is the same point at which the top edge of the bottom-most cartridge is starting to catch on the back wall of the mag body. (I'm referring to the initial cartridge that sits directly on the follower)

    I'll have to make it a point to get a few split-view "Screen Captures" as I'm drawing up those new CAD models so I can show you all where those cartridge rims are catching and the geometry changes I've had to make to counteract the effects of the hang up I'm experiencing now.

    Back when I printed that very first CAD model I was able to get all 15 rounds in that magazine, and I was able to get them to cycle the first few times I tried but, after those first couple of attempts it just quit working. I know now what was happening but, back then there was no way I could see through the walls of that black ABS magazine to know that I had eventually worn a rough gouge on the rear wall of the magazine. I'd just assumed that my mag-spring was to weak. One of the other things I learned from my "Transparent" copy was that I can shorten the overall length of my magazine body by about a half inch or so too.

    I know it's probably hard for most of you to picture in your minds what the heck I'm talking about so I'll be back with the pics to help explain all of the above; hopefully by next weekend I'll be able to make more sense to you guys.

    HollowPoint
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 10-01-2018 at 08:57 PM.

  7. #67
    Boolit Master
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    Just To Clarify

    In an effort to try to make my last post a little more clear I thought I'd post a couple of pics to do just that. One of those pics is of the three different iterations of the followers I've been tweaking. The prints themselves are some of the poorer quality prints I made up while testing some new print recipes so they look rather horrendous but, disregard the poor quality of the print and notice the changes in the angles from front to back. This is where the changes were made.

    The other photo shows what I attempted to describe in my previous post when I wrote about the rims of the cases hanging up on the rear wall of the magazine. I'm presently re-drawing my CAD models to hopefully eliminate this snagging so as to get the magazine spring to do its' job and push that stack of 15 cartridges up smoothly and reliably.

    HollowPoint
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  8. #68
    Boolit Master
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    Finally Got My New Models Drawn Up

    Here's a few more explanatory pics of the problems I've encountered and the tweaks I've made to my models in order to counter those problems. It looks like they'll work but, that's what I said last time.

    With any luck I'll be able to print them up sometime next week to see if in fact I've been able to fix the hang ups I was encountering. I've made a couple of other minor changes which include moving the two little cartridge-alignment-nubs forward by about 1/8" and shortening the overall length of the magazine body at the bottom by .8".

    If you recall, I mentioned that when I had all 15 rounds loaded into my "Transparent" magazine there appeared to be more than enough room for all the cartridges, the follower and the magazine spring so I took that to mean that my magazine body didn't have to be as long as it was and still be able to accommodate all 15 rounds. Lets hope I didn't cut to much off of the length.

    I'll be making one more minor change to my follower and then I'll be able to assemble and test it again. I'll be adding a .1" divot to the center outward facing rear wall so as to correspond with the raised section of the grooves I've incorporated into that inside rear wall. I'll be back once I get it all printed out, put together and tested.


    HollowPoint



    I
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  9. #69
    Boolit Master
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    This Lee Enfield Extended 15 round magazine project is kicking my butt.

    I printed out the magazine body that I uploaded those previous computer renderings of; the ones with the integral internal tracks inside on the rear wall of the magazine body. I was sure it would work this time but, like the previous three printouts, I was able to load all 15 rounds into it without as much trouble as before. Loading wasn't a problem. It was getting the bullets in that double stack of cartridges to spring back up evenly so that the bolt on my rifle would strip each one out of the magazine in succession.

    Even with those interior molded tracks the loaded rounds were still hanging up but not on the rear wall anymore. This time it was the rear-most portions of both side walls. The rims of the cartridges were hanging up on both of the rear inside corners of the magazine.

    I got out my digital calipers and proceeded to re-measure the interior and exterior dimensions again to compare them for the factory magazine dimensions only to find that the walls of my printed Magazine bodies were measuring .007" thicker than the .06" they were supposed to be. I then re-drew the walls on an all new CAD drawing to compensate for the slightly thicker than designed printed walls I was getting. This time I made the thickness of my magazine walls .048" thick. This was the actual thickness of the factory metal walls on my factory magazine.

    I also included all four of the factory vertical ribs that were stamped into the factory magazine side walls. I basically copied the factory magazine as closely as possible in dimensions including the vertical ribbing. I wanted to see if this would allow the loaded rounds to spring back up in reliably and in succession so that the bolt of my rifle could strip them cleanly from the magazine.

    In the same way that it worked when I printed that carbon fiber prototype I made for my K31 extended magazine project, thinning the walls of my Lee Enfield 3D printed magazine also worked BUT, the walls of my 3D printed magazine were now so thin that the two front feed-lips snapped off at their bases after the second time I loaded and cycled the loaded magazine into and out of my chamber.

    So, where does that leave me now??? I think I'm going to try printing out the lower two-thirds of another prototype magazine body with some divots molded into the interior wall that will accept and hold in place a hand made metal upper portion. This metal upper portion should be strong enough to retain its' shape without the small front-most metal feed-lips breaking off.

    I think I've got the right dimensions now. Heck I've had those correct dimensions all along in the form of my factory magazine but, the purpose of this project was to try to 3D print the entire thing. For this particular gun (the Lee Enfield type of rifle) this may not be feasible given how thin I'd have to print the upper portion of this magazine.

    I'll be back when I've figured out the correct bending procedure for the sheet metal I'll be utilizing. Any suggestions on the sheet metal type I might use would be appreciated. I'm thinking that at first I'll just use some of the aluminum sheeting I use to make gas checks just to get the shape of the pattern down. I'm not really knowledgeable about the various types of sheet metal I could use. I guess some more research in in order. As far as how I'll go about 3D printing the lower two-thirds of this yet to be printed magazine body, I'm relatively sure I have that figured out now. I've learned that the hard way.

    I'll try to post some images of that latest mag body I've just described above some time later this coming week.

    HollowPoint.
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 10-14-2018 at 06:14 PM.

  10. #70
    Boolit Master
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    I Got It To Work; For A While Anyway

    Lee Enfield

    3D Printed Extended 15 Round Magazine.

    I was sure that my last iteration of this Extended Magazine print would work; especially since I integrated those two friction reducing vertical grooves on the rear inside wall but he freaken thing still didn't work. What I mean is; I could load all 15 rounds into it and cycle the first four or five rounds with no problem but, then the remaining 303 rimmed cartridges would get hung up and the bolt could no longer strip them from the magazine.

    With all of the previous prints of this same magazine I deliberatly made the side walls a little thicker than the thickness of the factory magazine walls. This worked well on my recently completed K31 Extended Magazine project but this Lee Enfield magazine is a whole different animal.

    On this last print I decided to use the exact measurements to duplicate the measurements of my factory magazine. This included integrating the vertical ribs seen on the factory magazine. It worked! It really worked but, not for long.

    I loaded and cycled all 15 rounds into the magazine. Then I re-loaded the magazine to see if I could do it again to varify that it wasn't just a fluke. That second attempt did me in. The side walls seemed to hold up ok but the front-feed-lips were now the weak points of the magazine. The left side front feed lip cracked clean off under the pressue of the mag-spring so, it's back to the drawing board.

    This Lee Enfield Extended magazine project has been kicking my buttocks but, I haven't given up just yet; especially now that I actually got the darn thing to work. I'm thinking that I can still 3D print the follower, the base plate and the lower two-thirds of the magazine body but I'm going to have to make the upper portion (the portion with the feed lips that slips up into the mag-well of the rifle) out of some kind of sheet metal.

    If any of you guys can suggest a suitable type of sheet metal for this application let me know.

    HollowPoint
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check