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Thread: My 3D Printed Extended Magazines

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    My 3D Printed Extended Magazines

    A little over a month ago I finally got the money together to buy/invest in my first 3D printer. The learning curve is kind of steep but I've finally gotten to where I've started getting some decent prints out of it; not perfect prints just decent usable prints.

    Thus far I've managed to design and print some new peep sights for my Umarex Gauntlet PCP air rifle, Peeps sights for my break barrel air rifles along with a replacement shroud/suppressor for one of these break barrel air rifles and now I've started in on some extended magazines for my K31 Swiss rifle. If I measured correctly it should have a capacity of between 10 to 12 rounds depending on how much room my mag-spring takes up; possibly one or two more rounds.

    I printed the first prototype yesterday. The finish on it was actually very good but, I found out when I went to try to insert it into the magazine well that the K31 magazine is tapered toward the front end. My mistake was measuring the width at the back end and thinking that the front end was the same dimension. A rookie mistake if I ever saw one.

    You realize how incredibly frustrating that was when you factor in the time it took to finish that print. My second prototype is printing even as I write this initial post. Would anyone care to guess how long it takes to print just the main body of the magazine? Anybody?

    It took just under 7 hours to print just the main body of this extended magazine. I haven't made up the follower yet but I have finished the floor plate and the slip-on bottom cap. I'm wanting to first get the main body fitting right and then fiddle around with the side latch until I get that just right so that it stays put when the mag is inserted. I'm going to have to make my own mag-springs for this so that's going to take some trial and error to get it right but, that's just par for the course. I'm sure there's a mathematical formula for this kind of stuff but I SUCK at math so I'm stuck with trial and error.

    I really hope I can get this home made magazine to work reliably cause I'd like to make one for my Lee Enfield as well. A short little banana-type of magazine for my Enfield shorty would be just the ticket to make it look unique. I was afraid that the weak link in such a 3D printed magazine would be the very thin walls of these plastic magazines but when printed at 100 percent infill they are actually fairly rigid. In order for it to break you have to make a concerted effort to break it. I'll also be making up a set of 3D printed Peep Sights for this same K31 as well. I need to find some exact measurements of one of those aftermarket Bolt-On scope mount for the K31. I want to use the same type of securing method that attaches to the right side of the reciever. I've found photos online of this scope mount but nothing that I can get any good measurements off of. If any of you guys have one of these laying around perhaps you'd be kind enough to send me some closeup pics with measurements mainly of the area where the screw goes through and attaches.

    I'll post some pics once I get farther along. I've already posted a few pics of my 3D printed air gun projects over on the air guns section of this forum. If you get a chance you can take a look. I'll generally post my CAD renderings just to show what I was aiming for and then after I've had time to fine tune my 3D prints I'll post the finished product.

    I'm not printing these things for sale. It just takes to long to print up anything I've designed so a profit motive of things I've made is out of the question but at some point I do intend to start offering the STL files for sale to other like minded 3Ders who are also gun enthusiasts.

    Sorry to leave you with no pics this time around but they will be forthcoming.

    HollowPoint
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 06-23-2018 at 04:24 PM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    am44mag's Avatar
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    This sounds very interesting. Any idea as to how well they would hold up to recoil and heavy use?
    ______________________________________________
    Aaron

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Sounds like a fun project. I have been looking at 3D printers and my son has too. Not for gun stuff, but other items and parts needed around my machine and wood shops.

    Remember, we here in AZ can buy ANY size mag we want at most gun shows. Even those HUGE drum mags for 9mm's!!!!!! I have all sizes and lengths for my semi guns that use mags. Got them at local gun shows (NOT stores...too $$) any time I need more. Just saying....you are devoting a ton of time to designing and printing those things (let alone fab'ing the springs) that are all over the place at AZ shows....in METAL. But that is what hobbies are for, right?!?!?!?

    Many states will not allow large cap mags anymore. Totally silly. OMG.......here come the loony-left liber-tart gun/mag grabbers again! Just be glad we do not live in CA.

    Good luck and hope they hold up under fire. Looking forward to seeing pix of your finished items.

    bangerjim

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by am44mag View Post
    This sounds very interesting. Any idea as to how well they would hold up to recoil and heavy use?
    I don't really know how or if they'll hold up under load and recoil. I have identified what I think will be the weakest link in the whole assembly of components used in this project. That weakness is found in the latch that pivots on the side of the mag-body. Not only the pivot point but the upper part of the latch where it actually catches the reciever to hold the loaded magazine in place in the mag-well.

    I'm still going to try it using the printed ABS plastic but if something's going to break my guess is that this will be where it comes apart on me. I most likely will be able to use all the components as printed but the latch will have to me machined out of metal. You'll see what I'm talking about when I post the pics of the components.

    I've never heard of extended magazines for K31 rifles or Lee Enfield rifles made of metal or plastic but truth be told, I've never looked for them either. Since self-sufficiency is the name of the game, I'd like to be able to make my own just like I make my own ammo.

    HollowPoint

  5. #5
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    Don't want to be the gloomy-guss , but... I fear the mouths will spread apart if you put any kind of pressure on them

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grmps View Post
    Don't want to be the gloomy-guss , but... I fear the mouths will spread apart if you put any kind of pressure on them
    You could be right. On the other hand, you could be wrong. I don't really know myself and the only way to find out is to try. The lips of these plastic home made magazines feel pretty rigid to me but I suppose if enough heat is generated in the chamber it could spread back to the area of the magazine and possibly affect the configuration of the lips of the magazine.

    Once I've had the chance to test the function and durability of the ABS plastic I may be able to figure out a way of modifying that area of the magazine if need be. I just don't know until I've tried it.

    HollowPoint

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Have you figured out how to make the curved tabs at the front of the lee Enfield mag?. Sometimes if you have an enfield with mismatched mag you have to bend those tabs to get the cartridges to feed properly. Too high and it hits the bolt face too low won't feed the cartridges properly. Had a mag I bought at a gun show which almost made me want to just eat the cost due to those darn tabs. After messing with it got so disgusted just left it sit for a few weeks and finally hit the magic adjustment. Frank

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    With a 3D printer the possibilities are endless. Imagine the cheap the reloading tools you can now make. I keep wondering why no one is making plastic case gauges or go/no go gauges.

    I think your 3d printed mags will work good. Look at the magpro mags. They are mostly plastic, only thing metal on it is the spring. When you finish that search thing verse for reloading, they even have a COL gauge. I lack the skills and equipment but you can now make thousands of dollars worth of equipment for cheap. I have book mark of things and a list of ideas for a friend at work that runs a side business in 3D printing.
    "Speak softly and carry a big stick; you will go far."
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    Nice
    My Brother 3D printed me some plastic bullets

    They shot pretty well at 600 FPS

    But he had to try for 900 FPS in his 9mm and that didn't work LOL

    John
    Yea, thou I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil; for thou art with me; Thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me.
    And I carry a LOADED Hell Cat

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by samari46 View Post
    Have you figured out how to make the curved tabs at the front of the lee Enfield mag?. Sometimes if you have an enfield with mismatched mag you have to bend those tabs to get the cartridges to feed properly. Too high and it hits the bolt face too low won't feed the cartridges properly. Had a mag I bought at a gun show which almost made me want to just eat the cost due to those darn tabs. After messing with it got so disgusted just left it sit for a few weeks and finally hit the magic adjustment. Frank
    My Lee Enfield project is just something on my list of things I want to try to print. I haven't actually started drawing up any models or anything like that but I'm sure it will be somewhat similar to the present K31 mag project I'm working on now. Thanks for the heads up on the "Curved Tabs" issues. Now I'll have something to keep an eye out for.

    With my K31 Magazine build I took careful measurements where I could but I just eyeballed the angles on the factory mag and transferred those angles onto my CAD models. A side by side look at the factory mag and the 3D printed mag seems to indicate that it's pert-near a dead-nuts match but I'll have to wait and see when I go to cycle the action with some live or dummy rounds in the magazine. I actually held the plastic mag and the factory mag side by side to check. I also held them front to back and back to front in order to look down the length to compare the angles of the feed lips. Right now their pretty darn close but, as you've indicated even a very slight difference can mean success or failure.

    I haven't really looked into some of the stuff that other 3D print folks have come up with in regard to firearms related creations. I'm tempted to do that but I think I'll wait till I've completed my own items. This way it can't be said that I've stolen anyone else's ideas. Although, this is generally the consensus whenever two or more individuals happen to come up with the same ideas. This is where that spoof line, "Great Minds Tend To Think Alike" comes from. The problem is that some of these great minds can tend to be jealous minds when it comes to their creations.

    I do have my own list of things I want to try which includes an adjustable pellet sizer die I want to make for myself. I shoot the cheapest pellets I can buy most of the times and those cheap pellets are not all the same with respect to their outside dimensions. That's where this pellet sizer would come into its own; I think.


    HollowPoint

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Schimdt Ruben K31 12 Round 3D Printed Extended Magazine

    My second attempt at 3D printing my K31 12 round extended magazine needed alot of tweaking via a file, some sandpaper and some foul language. I got it to work but my real objective was to get a useable print straight out of the printer with a minimum of post-print work.

    I've made the needed tweaks to my CAD models and I'm thinking that the third time will be the charm. The problem with my second print attempt was that I hadn't allowed for the slight curvature on the underside of my K31 right where the magazine well is. The filing and sanding and cussing took care of that problem.

    I do think I'm going to have to make my mag spring out of a slightly larger diameter of music-wire but other than that all of the other components appear to be working with only a minimum of post-print cleanup. The three images below include two of my CAD Renderings (as this project was intended to look) and one image of the second 3D print attempt. The plastic powder/dust sprinkled on some of the darker components was due to me being in to much of a hurry to get these pictures posted so I could get back to work.

    The problems I encounter with projects like this are generally always due to me being in to much of a hurry. I can't help it. My spare time is at a minimum most of the time so I have to hurry up or I may not get the chance to do any projects outside of my income producing work. I'll be glad when I can retire. Maybe I'll have a little more free time then but, I won't be holding my breath on that. Most of the guys I know who are retired tell me the same thing whenever I see them.

    "I'm busier now than I was before I retired."

    This project is looking like it might very well work out for me. I mentioned before that I'd like next to print up a good set of peep sights. I was thinking about just using the same design I used on my air rifles but now I'm thinking I can just as easily reproduce a copy of those over priced "St. Marie" adjustable peep sights. If that works out for me too I'll offer the STL files for free to anyone who may be interested in printing up their own set of peep sights. I prefer my own design because several of my rifles have this type of peep sight and I've become accustomed to using them. My only reason for doing a copy of the high end Peeps is due to an arrogant comment made by the schmuck over at the Swiss Rifle forum when I enquired about the mounting method used by them and any other maker of after market scope mounts and peep sights. They seemed to find it humorous and somehow offensive that I would dare to ask about such things.

    HollowPoint
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 06-28-2018 at 09:53 PM.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    My 3d Printed Extended 12 Round Mag Is Done

    It turned out that, "The Third Time Was NOT The Charm." It actually took a fourth attempt after tweaking and re-tweaking my CAD models. I finally got it to work.

    I mentioned in my previous post that I had identified a potential weak link in the design. That was the thin area of the latch-claw where it catches on the reciever to hold the loaded magazine in place so as not to slide downward and out of position to align the cartridges for the bolt-head to push forward. I've tested several magazines full since posting this video; not actually firing the rounds, just cycling the action. So far it seems to be holding with no breakage or signs of ill-effect on the plastic claw.

    This is a low quality and very short video that I had to butcher up even further to get it to fall within the time parameter restrictions for uploading to my Instagram account. I suck as a videographer but it's good enough to prove my concept and to prove that it actually works for me. I'm loading the magazine with some reloaded cast lead 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser cartridges. Some of you may remember about a year and a half ago I got a wild hair up my butt and decided to re-barrel and rechamber my K31 in the Swedish Mauser chambering. I liked the mild recoil so much that I bought a Tikka rifle in the same chambering so now I'm thinking of returning the my K31 back to its' native chambering.

    I still have all the original components in my storage closet so it should be a snap to put it all back to original. I don't really need two different rifles chambered in the same cartridge. I'm sure this 3D printed Extended magazine will work just as well with the slightly larger diameter 7.5x55 round as it does with the Swedish Mauser cartridge; probably even better cause one of the down sides to these thin walled plastic mags is the fact that with the magazine itself out of the rifle and full of cartridges, the walls of the magazine tend to expand. This spreads the mag-lips just enough to allow the smaller diameter shells to want to push up and out under the pressure of the mag-spring.

    I'm fairly sure that the very slight difference/larger dimensions of the native K31 cartridge will not allow the loaded rounds to want to creep up and out of the plastic magazine on their own. If they did still tend to want to do that, simple thumb and fore-finger pressure at the top of the magazine as it's being loaded into the mag-well will keep it from happening. The magazine's outside dimensions are such the they are just a fraction smaller than the inside dimensions of the mag-well. Once the magazine is locked into the mag-well I've had virtually no problems.


    I'm thinking that 3D printing this same magazine design with one of the more rigid yet flexible filaments like the carbon-fiber type, should make this an outstanding combination. That type of filament is more expensive and I'm chronically cheap so unless I find this type of "Better" 3D print filament for a cheaper price, I'll stick with ABS for now.

    HollowPoint

    Last edited by HollowPoint; 07-08-2018 at 12:49 PM.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Very interesting, Thanks for sharing!
    "Don't worry what they think. In the end it is not between them and you, it is between you and God."

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    "You won't know until you Actually try it"

    "The impossible just takes longer."

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  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    HollowPoint if you do need math help, I'm pretty fair at it; Can work you up formulas to help. (If my inbox fills up, just give me a few hours, spare time's been LOW lately. And I'm taking tomorrow OFF. LOL) There are higher temperature and lower temperature filaments, PLA tends to get melty in a hot car so it'd be a bad option, there are some newer filaments including High Temp PLA. If you use ABS you can vapor treat it to unify and strengthen it, that might help you. (PLA takes some NASTY chemical, acetone for ABS is not nearly as nasty!)

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Sheesh View Post
    HollowPoint if you do need math help, I'm pretty fair at it; Can work you up formulas to help. (If my inbox fills up, just give me a few hours, spare time's been LOW lately. And I'm taking tomorrow OFF. LOL) There are higher temperature and lower temperature filaments, PLA tends to get melty in a hot car so it'd be a bad option, there are some newer filaments including High Temp PLA. If you use ABS you can vapor treat it to unify and strengthen it, that might help you. (PLA takes some NASTY chemical, acetone for ABS is not nearly as nasty!)
    I was skimming over some of the Carbon Fiber filament being sold on Ebay. I went ahead and ordered a roll of cheap Chinese carbon fiber 3D print filament. It will most likely take a month to get to my place but now I can test my theory about that particular filament possibly being better suited for this magazine application.

    In regard to my "Mathematically-Challenged" conundrum, I may have sounded like I was just kidding but I've never been particularly good at any type of mathematics. At one time in my past I dreamed of studying to become an engineer but in my mind I knew I could never pass the mathematics part of such studies. It never stopped me from dreaming up projects to build but out of necessity I had to become as proficient as possible at being a "Trial-And-Error" and "Eye-Baller" type of tinkerer/builder/inventor.

    Funny thing is that I've been self-employed for most of my adult life. People have asked me, "If you're so bad at math, how do you figure out the bill for your customers?" I just tell them that I charge using even numbers so I don't have to fumble around with fractions and such. It's good to know now that there's someone on here that is willing to help me with my math if I get stuck needing some answers in that department. To me, some of the higher mathematics is like trying to read Egyptian heiroglyphs. I can't understand those either.

    HollowPoint

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    HollowPoint - I hear you. A friend is "Lysdexic" (dyslexic) and not so good at math, as well as color blind. And he's good at soldering (he's done avionics repair for work in the past - he's GOOD at it.) He's a few years older than I am; I help him out pretty often, in return he watches for things I need as he hits the local thrifts and so on. My knees scream profanity at me if I walk too much in a day. (After camping I always plan 2-3 days off, to recover.) I'm trained in Electrical Engineering, with lots of Geology and Geophysics and Chemistry knowledge - I do stuff from simple equations up with ease, things like Tensor Calc not so much ease. (That's used for calculating river flows, airflow around a wing or projectile, or the like.) And I wish I could find someone good with some arkane fields in math, not yet. So it's easy for me, unless I have a bad headache.

    I hadn't seen the Carbon Fiber filament yet; I have a good 3d printer (MendelMax) that was willed to me, reworking the place so I can set it up and use it, it was sorta in parts when I got it, so I'll learn a lot getting it going. That's interesting filament! I'll have to read up

    If I could, I'd 3d print one of the airguns used in the Lewis and Clark expedition (that'd be FUN to shoot!) but I don't think the materials are up to making a usable one of those, yet; A non shooting replica would be an interesting wall piece though

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    Once you get your 3D printer up and running maybe I can send you the STL file of this magazine and its' components and you can print one out and test it in your K31. (I'm assuming that you own a K31) It would be nice to get confirmation from another 3D printer that this design actually works across the board with all K31s.

    I found out yesterday when I tried cycling my K31s' action with a full magazine that it no longer cycled like it did the day I made that short video. It took me a while to figure out the problem. It turned out that the claw on the latch that secures the magazine in position was about 1/16" to high. When I initially inserted the 3D printed magazine it would reach the correct position but then the slight jolt of cycling the first round into the chamber caused the magazine to drop down about 1/16" so that mean that the bolt head was 1/16" higher than the top round in the magazine so it could not push the round forward and out of the magazine.

    I'll print a couple more of those latches but this time I'll leave the claw-section of the latch filled in with ABS plastic and just manually cut that claw notch. From there I can draw up a more accurate CAD model and then print it out. I should be good to go then; at least till that Carbon Fiber filament shows up; then I'll have to go through the process of figuring out the right 3D print recipe that will give me some decent prints using that material. It's kind of like working up the right loads for a rifle except that I'm working up a print recipe for my specific 3D printer.

    HollowPoint

  18. #18
    Boolit Master
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    Have to ask this question regarding the different plastics available for 3d printers. Are there many types to choose from or are you limited by what is available from the company that makes the printers?. As you can see I know absolutely squat about 3d printers and the plastics that they use. Are there plastics for high stress applications and other uses. This from a guy still trying to figure out how to set up a $10 buck chinese alarm clock. electronics and math foreign words in my vocabulary. I consider myself electronically challenged and mathamatically challenged as well. Didn't do great in math in high school barely passed. Loved the teacher who used to say that one would do well with algebra especially later on in life. I'll be 72 soon and I'm still waiting. Frank

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    HollowPoint, no, no K31 here, sorry.

    samari46 there are lots of options, the usual 2 suspects are PLA and ABS; But there is that Carbon Fiber, Nylon, PVA (to make supports to hold something up, then you wash the PVA away later with hot water), I think I've seen PET filament too, Polycarbonate, and there are probably 20 other materials. And if you order from ShapeWays or the like, you can get your object in sintered steel, silver, I forget all the metals they offer but it's a good number of them!

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by samari46 View Post
    Have to ask this question regarding the different plastics available for 3d printers. Are there many types to choose from or are you limited by what is available from the company that makes the printers?. As you can see I know absolutely squat about 3d printers and the plastics that they use. Are there plastics for high stress applications and other uses. This from a guy still trying to figure out how to set up a $10 buck chinese alarm clock. electronics and math foreign words in my vocabulary. I consider myself electronically challenged and mathamatically challenged as well. Didn't do great in math in high school barely passed. Loved the teacher who used to say that one would do well with algebra especially later on in life. I'll be 72 soon and I'm still waiting. Frank
    samari46: As Mr Sheesh has already stated, there are lots of different types of filaments now but the basic ones are PLA and ABS. I got a roll of each included in the package that came with my printer.

    I'm afraid that when I make my posts here about the 3D prints I've made or attempted to make I may come off sounding like I know alot about 3D printing. It would be closer to the truth to say that I know nothing. I've only owned my printer for about a month and a half and I'm just now getting to where I can get some decent prints out of it. Figuring out how my printer works was the first step. The harder part for me was figuring out just the right combination of Slicer settings to use to get decent prints. The Slicer software is what determines the quality of your prints.

    I'm using the cheapest filament I can buy. I'm not using the filament that came with my printer because the roll of ABS is white and the PLA roll is blue so, I bought some black and gray off of Ebay for cheap. I just had to experiment until I got the right combination of heat at the extruder end, the heated bed, the extrusion rate and a few other settings. It sounds mind boggling but if you compare it to reloading your own ammo, there's a similar process you go through to work up the most accurate load for your rifle. In this case it would be working up the right print recipe for your printer.

    HollowPoint
    Last edited by HollowPoint; 07-08-2018 at 12:52 PM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check