sizing cast bullet's nose

[rp85]

hello;

have four different 30/30 rifles and have four different .30 caliber bullet casting molds. all 4 rifle have the same issue, short chambers. a bullet’s nose bumped against rifling is good for accuracy but useless if you can’t close the action. all of the molds i have cast bullets with a nose diameter of .302”. any cast .30 caliber bullet with a nose diameter large than .300” will not chamber in my 30/30 rifles.

has anyone ever used a noe neck sizer die bushing to reduce a cast a bullets nose diameter? thanks for any input.

rp

[kbstenberg]

You can go with the NOE replacement inserts, or custom size lee push through sizers.
You just have to figure out how far into the sizer the bullet should go. An have a system for pushing the bullet back out of the die.
You also have to decide how much at a time you want to size the bullet noses to. Too much force can bend or resize other portions of the bullet.

[FredBuddy]

RP:

I'll answer your question in the next day or two as my NOE nose sizer is on the way.

Same problem!

[popper]

I've got the NOE stuff, I'll stick with Lee pushthru, thank you. Nose sizer doesn't have enough relief at the entrance. You need a top punch to get the boolit out - if it doesn't stick. Try a fender washer drilled (and polished) of the correct size. Place over the nose, place base on Lee stud and press to the proper depth. Tap the boolit out with a light hammer blow. My RD style only takes ~ 0.1" resizing to work fine - 336 30/30 Or just seat 0.1" deeper.

[6.5 mike]

I have used a 30 cal RCBS collet puller to swage down an NOE 316299 nose. Takes a bit of time to get the feel of it, but does work.

[FredBuddy]

I'm only a month late with my experience:

Yes, the NOE nose sizer solved my 30/30 chambering problem - the Lee 150 was OK, if just lubed. As Popper indicated, the entrance is not beveled (by design) so powder coated boolits get scraped.

The same situation exists for lubed 165 RD from NOE, i.e. a bit of lead gets scraped but easily rubs off.

However , it is a very tedious process since every boolit sticks in the die and must be tapped out with a dowel. In another thread, Outpost 75 commented that the best solution to the problem is get a custom mould properly dimensioned at the nose. He is correct!!!

I forget if I mentioned in other posts on the subject that I noticed I also have a boolit runout problem, so I am also looking for a better seating die.

6 30/30's, only two are fussy - both Marlins. The 788 is a champ.

[MT Chambers]

It's easiest to do on a Lyman or RCBS, it has adj. stop for consistency, and it ejects automatically, a lot of .30 molds have too wide a nose and too narrow a body.

[Kraschenbirn]

A definite 'thumbs up' for the NOE. Yeah, I had to make my own extended top punch to eject the sized boolits but, other than that, Al's set-up does the job quite nicely.

Bill

[beagle]

Eagan use to make tapered nose sizers that were very handy for this purpose. I attempted to make a .300" nose first sizer for the Lyman 450 out of a smaller sizer reamed out to .300. The holes were left naturally. The bullet went in fine. Attempting to eject the bullet caused lead to bump/flow into the holes making it almost impossible to remove. Lesson learned.
The Eagans are a solid tapered die. I had no problems using them and they took a 30-180-SP nose down to where I could get a decent seating depth for a Number 1 Ruger .30/06./beagle

One of these can be easily knocked out by one of the machinists on here./beagle

[Forrest r]

I use the eagan nose sizing die quite a bit along with a nose sizing die I made to fit the lyman 450 using a 3/4* 30cal throating reamer. Between the 2 I can pretty much taper/re-size any cast bullet to fit all of the different 30cal's that I own.

[duck hollow pete]

Short chamber? The bore is supposed to be .300