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Thread: My new Marlin 1894C, first impressions

  1. #21
    Boolit Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sghart3578 View Post
    Update to my original post:

    I shot my rifle again today at the range where it is being DROS'ed. This time I remembered to take my trigger scale. It is an inexpensive Wheeler but it will give me a reading that I can then compare to my other rifles.

    My rifle shot well from the start, no cold barrel problems, etc.

    The source of my frustration is the trigger. It measures 7 1/2 lbs. I know that is why I am having trouble with the groups. My other 1894's are 3 1/2 lbs. and 5 lbs.

    If I hunker down and concentrate on my hold and follow through I can keep 5 shots in a 2" stickon dot at 25 yards. A trigger job is the first thing on my list when I can take it home.

    And sight replacement. Right now I have to raise the rear sight all the way up. I will address that also. Either another set of Skinners or some XS sights. Don't know yet.

    So far so good!

    Thanks for listening.


    Steve in N CA
    7.5 pound trigger is about right for a new Marlin/Remlin. Mine are all within that range, from the 1960's through 1980's. It will slick up nicely the more you shoot it. Or, any decent smith can get it down for you. If the rifle is accurate there is probably nothing wrong with it. Lever actions tend to require more dickering with sight height than others. I use Williams and Lyman receiver sights on most of my lever actions. Measure the total height of your front sight from bottom of dovetail to the very top and order a replacement that is around .040 shorter, I really like Lyman and Marble's sights with 3/32" white dots.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, .30 WCF, .45-70 Gov't.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Hello, I really liked your post and wanted to ask where the "North Highland" range was? I grew up in Highland and did my Hunter Safety and had my first job pulling traps at the Inland Fish & Game at age 13 but it's closed now. I am out there enough to use the range. Thanks in advance, Mike Young

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by youngmman View Post
    Hello, I really liked your post and wanted to ask where the "North Highland" range was? I grew up in Highland and did my Hunter Safety and had my first job pulling traps at the Inland Fish & Game at age 13 but it's closed now. I am out there enough to use the range. Thanks in advance, Mike Young
    The Gun Range is on Orange Grove Avenue off of Watt Avenue in North Highlands California, a suburb of Sacramento.

    If any of you guys are around the area I would be happy to let you shoot it and judge for yourself.


    Steve in N CA

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by FergusonTO35 View Post
    7.5 pound trigger is about right for a new Marlin/Remlin. Mine are all within that range, from the 1960's through 1980's. It will slick up nicely the more you shoot it. Or, any decent smith can get it down for you. If the rifle is accurate there is probably nothing wrong with it. Lever actions tend to require more dickering with sight height than others. I use Williams and Lyman receiver sights on most of my lever actions. Measure the total height of your front sight from bottom of dovetail to the very top and order a replacement that is around .040 shorter, I really like Lyman and Marble's sights with 3/32" white dots.

    I will do that, thank you.


    Steve in N CA

  5. #25
    Steve, do you do your own trigger jobs on the lever? That would make a great post.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by DueceMcGurk View Post
    Steve, do you do your own trigger jobs on the lever? That would make a great post.
    Yes,

    I do my own trigger jobs on my Marlins.

    However, I can't take credit for developing the procedure. I picked it up on the Marlin owner's forum. They are a wealth of knowledge. Photos, step by step instructions, everything.

    One piece of advice from me. The Marlins have a very cool two piece trigger system. A lot of guys replace the two piece with a one piece to eliminate the Marlin "trigger flop".

    The trigger flop never bothered me and one piece triggers are around $100.

    So, before you start a DIY trigger job go on line to Midway or Brownells or Numrich and order one or two Marlin replacement sears. They are cheap.

    When they arrive disassemble your rifle's trigger and save the factory sear. Do all of your tuning on one of the replacement sears. It is very easy to lower the trigger weight too much and be unsafe. Ask me how I know.

    You want a light (3-4 lb.) pull with NO pushoff. It is easy with some patience. If you mess up the first one like I did then you have a second one in reserve as well as the original factory sear.

    Best of luck,


    Steve in N CA

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    That is good advice. Thanks for the tip.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sghart3578 View Post
    Yes,

    I do my own trigger jobs on my Marlins.

    However, I can't take credit for developing the procedure. I picked it up on the Marlin owner's forum. They are a wealth of knowledge. Photos, step by step instructions, everything.

    One piece of advice from me. The Marlins have a very cool two piece trigger system. A lot of guys replace the two piece with a one piece to eliminate the Marlin "trigger flop".

    The trigger flop never bothered me and one piece triggers are around $100.

    So, before you start a DIY trigger job go on line to Midway or Brownells or Numrich and order one or two Marlin replacement sears. They are cheap.

    When they arrive disassemble your rifle's trigger and save the factory sear. Do all of your tuning on one of the replacement sears. It is very easy to lower the trigger weight too much and be unsafe. Ask me how I know.

    You want a light (3-4 lb.) pull with NO pushoff. It is easy with some patience. If you mess up the first one like I did then you have a second one in reserve as well as the original factory sear.

    Best of luck,


    Steve in N CA
    Just go slow and check every 3 strokes of a file. I have done so many, I don't even take the sear all of the way out...

    Steve is right about having a back up, just in case.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    I just hone mine with a whetstone, making sure the corners are sharp and there are no burrs. I really don't mind if the pull is heavy, as long as it is smooth and consistent.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, .30 WCF, .45-70 Gov't.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check