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Thread: The Husqvarna Model 46 Project

  1. #61
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    Cases look great!! I expect they'll be fine. I'm really looking forward to your results.

    If you do it in a darkened room, annealing just the neck & shoulder with a propane torch, it shouldn't present any difficulties.

    It's been pretty miserable here after about 9:00 AM for the last couple weeks so I understand. Temps are moderating considerably today....just in the mid-80's. I still can't do much, being restricted to lifting no more than 10 lbs., so I suppose the weather doesn't matter much right now. Have a follow up appt. this coming Thursday and hope to get turned loose a little.
    "In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'

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  2. #62
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    Those cases turned out well; and I like that slim loading block, better access than the typical fatter ones. Don't let losing those few cases or the annealing turn you from the grand old round, because straight from new 8mm forming is almost as easy and sure as plain old FL resizing.
    The first purpose of the Second Amendment is too often overlooked, fostering a liberty of mind and action necessary in the people of a free republic.


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  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharps4590 View Post
    Cases look great!! I expect they'll be fine. I'm really looking forward to your results.

    If you do it in a darkened room, annealing just the neck & shoulder with a propane torch, it shouldn't present any difficulties.

    It's been pretty miserable here after about 9:00 AM for the last couple weeks so I understand. Temps are moderating considerably today....just in the mid-80's. I still can't do much, being restricted to lifting no more than 10 lbs., so I suppose the weather doesn't matter much right now. Have a follow up appt. this coming Thursday and hope to get turned loose a little.
    I though about using the propane torch too. Probably will next time. Getting that lead off the cases is a PITA. It's not too bad today. Not comfortable by any means, but I don't feel like killing over after taking a few steps outside either. Hope the appointment goes well so you can get back to shooting.

    Quote Originally Posted by Landy88 View Post
    Those cases turned out well; and I like that slim loading block, better access than the typical fatter ones. Don't let losing those few cases or the annealing turn you from the grand old round, because straight from new 8mm forming is almost as easy and sure as plain old FL resizing.
    Thanks, I made it from some scrap cedar we had lying around. I wanted something I could store easily, and I usually don't make batches larger than 50 rounds for rifle ammo. It fits into the back of one of the shelves on the bench and you forget it's even there.

    Annealing is something I've been putting off for quite a while. The only other round I ever attempted to anneal is 41 Swiss, which is probably not the best round to start out with. They have long necks and short bodies that don't give you a lot of room for error.
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  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by am44mag View Post
    I made up 20 pieces of brass. I had about 3 pieces split while I was necking them up. That's not very surprising. The brass was originally 30-06 that was converted to 8mm Mauser. Necking up to 9.3mm is moving quite a bit of brass. I finally bit the bullet and annealed the cases to prevent them from splitting once fired. I'm new to annealing and am frankly terrified of accidentally annealing the case head. I used the lead pot methods, which seems to be the most idiot proof to me other than having an actual annealing machine. A little on the necks helped prevent the lead from sticking (mostly, and it smoked like crazy), and some steel wool and a X-acto knife cleaned up the rest. 10 seconds seemed to be just right. By that point, I could still hold on to the bottom of the case, but it was getting very uncomfortable. Only did that a couple times to confirm that the case head wasn't getting too hot and wore welding gloves the rest of the time.

    Just to be safe I'm going to test these cases with low pressure loads first. If no pressure signs show up, they're good.

    They're sized, primed, and ready to go!


    i just used a hornady 9.3x57 fl die and imperial wax to size 8x57's. (the 8x57 rem brass was new.) i still have fire form them. i'll go 44.0gr of h4198 and a 270gr speer.

  5. #65
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    I got the mold, and I'm in love with it. Blows those old LEEs so far out of the water, it's not even funny. Now I gotta start replacing my LEEs...

    Anyways, this bullet is MASSIVE. Drops at .368, and weights in a 292gr with the check. I don't have the stuff to lube these on my lubersizer yet, so I modified a cheap lee sizing die by drilling it out (not fun as they are the hardest thing known to man). It started life out as a .356", was modified to .358, but isn't ever needed for that. I used a size U drill bit, which just so happens to be 0.368". After drilling and polishing, it came in at 0.3685", perfect for seating gas checks. I'm going to powder coat this first batch an see how they do.

    Here's the bullet towering over a 55gr, .224" bullet.

    Last edited by am44mag; 07-24-2018 at 12:28 PM.
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  6. #66
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    The good news is that these massive bullets fit in the gun. I won't have to turn the necks at all. The bad news is, I tossed the brass. Not sure if it was me or it, but out of the 5 rounds I tested, 3 had primers back out about half way, one of which was pierced. I used charge of 13gr of Red Dot (very pleasant to shoot load BTW), so I doubt it was a pressure issue. It's not worth risking the gun or me over 20 pieces of brass.
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    this out to help you about your primers backing out. start at #3
    https://forums.gunboards.com/showthr...t=primers+back

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by 500Linebaughbuck View Post
    this out to help you about your primers backing out. start at #3
    https://forums.gunboards.com/showthr...t=primers+back
    Interesting. It might be worth testing the brass some more to see what it does. The primers were the only sign of pressure present on the case, and as I said, it was a pretty light load. I'll have to get a .375" or .410 expansion die.
    Last edited by am44mag; 07-24-2018 at 04:25 PM.
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    what type of die are you using?

    mine is hornady, so there's no need for a expansion die. it take 8x57 prvi brass and necks them up to 9.3mm. then you fire form the brass and you are done.

    todo 8x57 brass take imperial wax or 100% lanolin wax and put IN the case. you can spray( one shot or your own) or wax them on the outside. i did both(imperial and lanolin) of the in methods, i didn't find that one was better than the other. i would put the 9.3x57 fl die about 1/8" from the shell holder. i would put my 8x57 case in the shell holder, and then i would push the case half way, pull out the case and push the case the whole way. the case is now a 9.3mm. all it needs to do is fire form.

  10. #70
    Boolit Buddy Landy88's Avatar
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    It was a pressure issue - too little pressure.
    The first purpose of the Second Amendment is too often overlooked, fostering a liberty of mind and action necessary in the people of a free republic.


    “Ironically, the only gun control in 19th century England was the policy forbidding police to have arms while on duty.”
    ~ Don B. Kates, Jr.

  11. #71
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    I put 10 rounds through the gun today. First off, let me just say that this thing is a thumper on BOTH ends of the gun. You definitely know you're shooting 270gr bullets. It's light weight probably contributes a lot to that, and it also gets HOT. The load I used was a 270gr Speer over 46.0gr of H4895. Not a max load, but certainly not a light one either. It was probably pushing that bullet at 2100-2200 FPS.

    I got the scope sighted in while I was testing the ammo to see what was going on. Almost all of the rounds had primers back out. I also kept an eye out for the appearance of any rings. All of the casings had rings from the sizing die, so that made it difficult. All of the brass is marked RP, FC, or Winchester.





    All was going pretty well until round number 10. I noticed it was a little sticky on extraction, and I found this...





    It has a Winchester WW Super head stamp.

    Luckily there was no damage to the gun or me. In fact, I don't even think there was any gas venting. I have no idea where that bullet went as it missed the target, but I guess this was a best case scenario for a case head separation. Now the question is, why did it happen? Was it bad annealing, bad head spacing, bad brass, or some combination of the three? Like I said before, I don't think I had let the heat get to the case head when I annealed them. I held them with my bare hands until they started getting too hot to hold, and then they immediately went into a bucket of water. Surely I didn't manage to hold onto a 400-600 degree piece of brass? I noticed after annealing while I was priming that most of the cases seemed to have loose primer pockets. I'm not sure if that was just because the brass had been fired at least a time or two before, or because I did something wrong while annealing.

    I have a neck sizer on the way that should solve head spacing issues as described in that Gunboards thread. I guess I'll have to see how that does. I'm tempted to throw away the rest of the 9.3 brass I had made. I do not want to test my luck with it.
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  12. #72
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    Did a little investigating. I cut into one of the cases that had not had a primer back out thinking maybe they stretched and knocked it back in. After close examination, I can find no obvious signs of case head separation such as the distinctive groove that forms inside the case. I've seen photos of these grooves and they are pretty easy to spot once the case it opened up. Mine looks like a normal case. I don't know how many times a case would need to be fired in a gun with excessive head space in order for that groove to appear, but considering the fact that the case that had it's head separate was fired only once in that chamber, I'd assume it's not many. This round likewise had only been fired once in this chamber. Sorry for the blurry pic, but that's the best I could get.

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  13. #73
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    My two coppers...I think you need to get your cases headspaced on the shoulder. Neck up the case to some larger caliber then set a false shoulder with your 9.3 die, fireform and THAT should eliminate the primer backing out and probably the head separation you experienced. After that neck size only or just BARELY bump the shoulder. Might back off your powder charge as well. Just 'cause a cartridge can be run up to that velocity doesn't mean it has to be.
    "In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'

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  14. #74
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    Bad brass. That Win case was just worn out. Cull out the loose pocket brass for sure. Neck sizing or partial sizing should help. A Limbsaver slip on pad for bench work is a great help. They are worth the 30 some odd bucks that they cost.
    I used that bullet at 2200 fps in my CZ 9.3x62 and it let you know it was serious. Whistles thru whitetail deer, too.

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  15. #75
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    I think you're both correct. I might have just gotten a hold of some bad brass, but I do believe the gun has some head spacing issues too. I'll test out some of my other brass and ensure that it's still good before I anneal and resize. My neck sizer should also be here tomorrow, so I'll neck the cartrige up to 40 cal and then back down. That should create a pretty good false shoulder for the case to head space off of.

    I have no doubt that 270gr bullet would knock a dear over dead like nobody's business. How the meat damage? I assume it's probably minimal with that big slow bullet.
    Last edited by am44mag; 07-30-2018 at 12:53 AM.
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  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by am44mag View Post
    I think you're both correct. I might have just gotten a hold of some bad brass, but I do believe the gun has some head spacing issues too. I'll test out some of my other brass and ensure that it's still good before I anneal and resize. My neck sizer should also be here tomorrow, so I'll neck the cartrige up to 40 cal and then back down. That should create a pretty good false shoulder for the case to head space off of.

    I have no doubt that 270gr bullet would knock a dear over dead like nobody's business. How the meat damage? I assume it's probably minimal with that big slow bullet.

    i think the 270gr speer and the 285gr prvi rn have a soft lead core but the jacket thickness is minimal. i don't know that it will cause/not cause meat damage.

    https://forums.gunboards.com/showthr...ht=270gr+speer
    you can try this

  17. #77
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    Tight behind the shoulder thumb size exit no meat damage- it just let the deer's life out with no drama.

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  18. #78
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    Can't speak for the jacketed stuff but I know with your cast bullet you'll be able to eat right up to the hole....and it will flatten any deer....or anything else for that matter...as effectively as the j-word bullets.
    "In general, the art of government is to take as much money as possible from one class of citizens and give it to another class of citizens" Voltaire'

    The common virtue of capitalism is the sharing of equal opportunity. The common vice of socialism is the equal sharing of misery

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  19. #79
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    Both of mine and Wayne's had head space issues. I necked the cases up to .416" (I think) and then back down with the 9.3 die backed out a little way. Then adjusted it in until the handle would just close. After I fireformed the brass this way, I had no problems with primers backing out and have not had any case head seperations.

  20. #80
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    I haven't been feeling great the last week, so getting out and working in the shop has been hard. I think I fixed the issue though. I necked up to .416", and used the FL die to neck it back down. I adjusted it to where the handle would just barely close as lar suggested, and it seems to have fixed the issue. The brass I used was the same brass that had primers backing out of it, but that issue stopped. I only tested one round because there's a storm coming in, but it's definitely promising. I will test it more whenever the rain passes.

    Lar, are you necking straight up to .416 from .368, or are you using an intermediate step? Mine will neck up without splitting, but it's slightly off center. Necking it back down re-centers everything. I'm kind of wondering if the press is somehow causing it. I'm using an old Pacific press that requires you to pull up on the handle instead of pushing down. I might set up my old RCBS press and see how it does.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check