The Husqvarna Model 46 Project

[am44mag]

So after a lot of looking, I have concluded that I'm not going to find a set of rings that fit this base, and if I do, I'm going to pay way too much for them. So I got an idea...

You can buy Picatinny rail blanks for less than $10 for 12", and they look to have enough meat to the underside of them to cut a groove in them that would slide over my weird Swedish rail. What if I cut the rail to length, cut that grove into it, and add some set screws to ensure that it stays put? Seems simple enough. Either I can find a machinist to cut the groove for me (calling all members? ) or I can do it the hard way with a drill press, Dremel, files, and a lot of elbow grease. Thoughts?

Got the best measurements I could. I'm not 100% sure about that angle though. It LOOKS like a 45 degree angle, but my math says it's a 14 degree angle. I'll look into that more tomorrow.

[Gewehr-Guy]

If the extra height doesn't matter, you could just screw a blank Weaver base or rail directly on top of the existing base. Looks like there is enough width on top to provide a stable area to attach a rail. Would a Griffin& Howe base be similar, I have never examined one and don't know the dimensions, but I do know they are very expensive.

[am44mag]

If the extra height doesn't matter, you could just screw a blank Weaver base or rail directly on top of the existing base. Looks like there is enough width on top to provide a stable area to attach a rail. Would a Griffin& Howe base be similar, I have never examined one and don't know the dimensions, but I do know they are very expensive.

I looked at the Griffin & Howe, and that ain't gonna happen, lol. WAY to rich for my blood.

Screwing on a rail might be a good solution too. I don't know if this mount has any value to it, but drilling and tapping it might be the best solution. I believe it's aluminum, though I'm not sure. The problem is, I can't get it off the gun. The screws won't budge.

[am44mag]

Welp, those screws aren't ever going to come out. They look to be welded in from the inside of the receiver. Not sure why anyone would do that instead of just using loctite, but ok. Anything I do is going to have to be done with the mount attached to the rifle. Found a rail marketed toward old .22 and shotgun dovetails. Says it's adaptable to 9mm-11mm rails. Mine are 10.5mm. My fingers are crossed that it'll work, but at $9, I'm not too worried. Maybe a little bit of modification will make it fit, and if not I have an old .22 that it could go on.

[am44mag]

Got the adapter in, and it was CLOSE to fitting. It would slide over the dovetail, but didn't have much play in it. After a little filing, it tightened up just fine. The scope is on the gun, and it was kind of odd trying to get the scope leveled to the barrel when it's off to the side of it. It's a little higher than I'd like, but usable. I might make a leather cheek riser to fit the stock in the future. I'll get some pics after I cool off a bit. It is HOT today.

[Landy88]

I might make a leather cheek riser to fit the stock in the future. I'll get some pics after I cool off a bit. It is HOT today.

Good work. Glad you found a fix. Looking forward to pics; and when done of the cheek riser, too.

[am44mag]

I'm thinking of an old west like style with some loops for some extra ammo and the lacing on the bottom. Maybe a pouch? I think that would fit the rifle's style very well. I'll see about getting some leather ordered and get working on that probably in a couple weeks. It doesn't need much of a cheek riser to be honest. The scope just a tad bit too tall, but it's still very usable.



Oh, and pictures!





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[Gewehr-Guy]

Is the scope offset enough to use the iron sights too? If you hunt hogs,that caliber sure should knock'em down easily. Do you have a mould for it yet? Jim

[am44mag]

Is the scope offset enough to use the iron sights too? If you hunt hogs,that caliber sure should knock'em down easily. Do you have a mould for it yet? Jim

You can easily use either, and this thing would knock down hogs like nobody's business! I'm looking at a couple NOE molds right now, don't have one picked out yet though.

[Landy88]

That's a great result with the fine old rifle. Darn rare for the scope and irons combo thing to work well for either, so that's a big bonus. These have the nicest iron sight stocks that I've used on a bolt gun, too.

Fine looking leather on the other one, too.

[Texas by God]

I have lower rings; if you can use them, holler. That is a very neat rifle!

[Texas by God]

I wanted to get a Lee .366" 9mm Mak mould for a small game/ plinker boolits when I had a 9.3 x62mm but I never got to it. An idea for you.....

[am44mag]

I wanted to get a Lee .366" 9mm Mak mould for a small game/ plinker boolits when I had a 9.3 x62mm but I never got to it. An idea for you.....

That's an interesting idea. I'll have to give it a try.

[sharps4590]

Except for the rail and the double rings it still sort of has a European look. As long as it works for you...that's the main thing.

Aaron, here's the Accurate Molds bullet I chose for my Husky. I'm certain I had Tom cut it to different dimensions but I'd have to measure one to know for sure It's been a dandy so far.

http://accuratemolds.com/bullet_deta...=37-270G-D.png

[lar45]

https://forums.gunboards.com/showthr...e-9-3x57/page3
Here's a thread with tons of info on the 9.3x57

You might want to slug your bore, they seem to run abit on the large side.
My M46A is .356x.368, my buddy Wayne's M46 is .359x.371".
The throats on both of them are .371" and over .5" long
I ended up sizeing down some Speer .375" 235s to .369" to shoot in my gun. H4895 seemed to be the best powder for jacketed loads. I ran them up to just over 2500fps and shot a Deer with it. It penetrated stem to stern and kept on going.
I really like the wood on your rifle

[lar45]

Somebody here sent me some cast bullets from an NOE 368-280FN mold.
I dip lubed with 2500+, used 24gns of 2400 and seated to 2.963" and shot this target. velocity was 1540fps

[sharps4590]

lar, that's a good thread. I need to check in there more frequently. thanks for the link.

[Reverend Al]

I have an old Lyman (Ideal) #3589 that drops a grossly oversized (.366 / .367) bullet at nearly 300 grains and I loaded it for an old boss of mine for his 9.3x74R Belgian made SxS double rifle. Worked great and with that big blunt nose it's a real killer on game. You might be able to find a similar mould and enlarge it to work, or even order a custom made mould to your dimensions.

[am44mag]

There's a few molds I've been looking at. The NOE 368-280-FN is probably the top contender right now, but Accurate has several molds I like the looks of. My bore is 0.368", though I might re-slug it just to make sure because I had some issues with that slugging. I haven't gotten around to doing a pound cast for the throat yet.









Oh, and thanks to Texas by God's extreme generosity, I now have a set of low rings mounted on this, and it is an immense improvement both in looks, and in usability.

[lar45]

Do you have brass and everything already? I used PPU 8x57 and just necked it up in one pass, seems to work great. Wayne wanted the correct head stamp and ordered Norma 9.3x57 brass. Just to see if I could, I converted some 30-06 brass. I cut them down, ran through the 9.3 die to form, then necked up to .375 to turn the necks, then back down to 9.3 and loaded with cast bullets after anealing. They worked great.
Another thing I noticed with a chamber cast of both the M46 and M46A is that the chambers had excessive headspace. So I necked the brass up, then back down with the sizeing die not all the way seated, to give a tight squeeze when the bolt handle was lowered, then fireformed. After that I just neck sized and haven't noticed any case stretching.