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Thread: How much tractor?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    possom813's Avatar
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    I've got a Kubota 2350 4wd with a fel and an old Ferguson 35.

    They both have their jobs around the house. The 35 gets used primarily for brush hogging. It used to be the do all tractor.

    Wife bought me the used 2350 for father's day. I've had it about 2 weeks now and don't know how I ever lived without the fel.

    It's smaller than the 35, but has a lot more oommf. The 35 has to downshift to now up our little hills, the 2350 never slows.

    As for what you're doing, buy more tractor than you think you'll need. With your budget, I'd be looking at 50+ hp mahindra or a good used machine.
    I will fear no evil, for thou art with me.

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  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by rl69 View Post
    I think you will be happy with a 40 hp. It's small enough to get in tight spots but heavy enough to move a load.
    I would stay away from the hydrostatic on that size tractor. My boss has a 60 hp with shuttle shift. The plant I work at has a 40 hp with a standard transmission and I think I like it better.I have a 25 hp with the hydrostatic and I like it a lot for what I do with it. ( light work )
    Come on a 40hp Kubota won't pick up chit on the FEL

  3. #23
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    My L3800 is gear/shuttle for a couple of reasons. One is the simplicity and the other is that you don’t lose as much HP to the drive system. I vastly prefer it to the 2wd MF 245 I used to have, even though the Massey had more weight and HP. Having power to the front wheels makes a big difference on hilly ground. I used to have to practically stand on the diff lock, but now I can go just about anywhere.

    Whatever you buy, splurge for Rim Guard in the rear tires.
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blanket View Post
    Come on a 40hp Kubota won't pick up chit on the FEL

    I don't know ,I haven't run that many kubota's ??? The 40 hp John deer at the plant will lift around 1200 safely 1800 if I have to but I'm bouncing hard.

    4 wheel drive is a must with a fel
    when the dust settles and the smoke clears all that matters is I hear the words " well done my good and faithfully servant "

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  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    I been researching this on other forums as well trying to keep an open mind. So far no one has presented any good information to convince me the 40 hp tractor would be a bad choice. Am also leaning towards the HST transmission.
    Tennessee

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    Traffer's Avatar
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    I just bumped into this. I am not a member so I have no idea what they have or want for stuff, but thought I would pass it on in case you are a Face Book person:
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/370524613050965/
    AKA hans.pcguy

  7. #27
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    crowbuster's Avatar
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    Snowwolfe. I would add only If you get a tractor that is a yr old new stock you will save a bunch, tell them you are looking at other tractors, nuther grand off, they all have wiggle room. And you shuld look at grapples, worth their weight in gold for logs and brush. Have fun, choose wisely.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master

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    Kubota puts a lot of power to work in a give size. Out current 65hp Kub will far out work out old 75 Deere and is smaller in every dimension. Even disc or plowing is easier with the smaller tractor. I would consider chassis size more than a couple up for your application. There are a lot of places I could use a tractor on our place that that 65 with cab just can't fit.


    Also, consider a model without a cab or even a sun top. Both limit where you can go. For a utility tractor where you aren't cutting hay for 12 hours or such, one with a fold down roll bar would be nice.
    Last edited by jcren; 06-10-2018 at 11:46 AM.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

  9. #29
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    My Grandfather and I farmed 178 acres with a 1948 Farmall H. This was a 2 wheel drive 25 hp gasoline tractor. He later bought a Massey Ferguson 165 with a Perkins diesel.
    Both of these tractors had more power and weight than what you need. Pulling stumps is not really something that I consider for tractor buying criteria. You can get hurt doing that and damage your tractor too. Just dig up and chop the roots with an ax and stumps will come out without damage or danger.
    Really big tractors are good when you are beating on them every day on a large farm or ranch. Otherwise they are not as useful as a medium machine and the smaller tractors are easier to transport.
    My impression is large tractors are more dangerous and I knew a number of people mangled or killed by them. A couple of times it was almost me and almost my grandfather.

  10. #30
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    I have JD 5205, 50hp. Has a 6' bucket and pylon for moving logs. Have pulled a 78' 20" diameter log with it. Need a bush hog and grader blade for it.

    Was looking at a used 40 hp tractor when it sold before I could make the deal. They took this one in on trade, with 1400 hrs on it. Paid $1,000 less than the smaller tractor for it. For once I was in the right place at the right time!!!!

    Don

  11. #31
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    snowwolfe - I think 40 HP is plenty for what you mentioned in the 1st post. The issue is more putting that power to the ground than the total amount of power available.
    Would you say your work will be more Front End Loader work or more Pulling work?

  12. #32
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    We will use the FEL about 40% of the time and the backhoe about the same amount. The remaining 20% would be split between grading our road and eventually using a disc to dig up small areas to plant for food plots. I do plan on installing forks on the front bucket to help lift and move logs. I do not plan on pulling stumps out, that will be the main use of the backhoe.
    Tennessee

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowwolfe View Post
    We will use the FEL about 40% of the time and the backhoe about the same amount. The remaining 20% would be split between grading our road and eventually using a disc to dig up small areas to plant for food plots. I do plan on installing forks on the front bucket to help lift and move logs. I do not plan on pulling stumps out, that will be the main use of the backhoe.
    During backhoe operation the tractor just sits there and you just need hydraulic power. So transmission type isn't terribly critical there.
    FEL work involves lots of direction changes, lots of starting and stopping movements and generally more need for fine control. A hydrostatic transmission shines here as long as it is well maintained and not over worked.
    A geared transmission is a lot tougher when heavy pulling work is being done (pulling plows, pulling logs, heavy grading, etc. )

    A shuttle shift is the best of both worlds. The strength of a geared transmission and nearly the ease of a hydrostatic.

    I don't think horsepower is a real issue for the work you are considering. Weight, track (width the wheels are apart), wheelbase (distance between front and rear axles) and transmission type are the real keys. Heavy is good for both stability and traction.

  14. #34
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    look at a quick change system for you fel and get a dedicated set of forks, the forks that attach to the bucket move your center of gravity forward and decrease the lift capacity and they have a habit of bending the lip of the bucket which ruins it for grading and dirt work. a three point weight helps add a bunch to the lift capacity of your fel, but be careful of your front wheel assembly as it bears almost all the weight from your fel.

  15. #35
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    After doing research and narrowing it down to the size you think you need for the jobs you have in mind buy the next size bigger. Trust me on this one and don't neglect the 2wd used ones. I know that 4wd's are the rage and I'm certainly not knocking them but a tractor with a locking rear and a set of chains will do about everything you need doing.

    Unless someone had done something very bad with it, a tractor will far outlive you. Don't neglect used ones
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  16. #36
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    My Grandfather and I farmed 178 acres with a 1948 Farmall H. This was a 2 wheel drive 25 hp gasoline tractor. He later bought a Massey Ferguson 165 with a Perkins diesel.

    Learned how to drive a tractor on a Massey 165. Friend of mine used it as his main tractor on a family dairy farm for decades and probably still does. We used it for haying, mowing, logging, running the bulk tank when the power was out, plowing the yards in the winter, etc. It was a work horse and shows that a tractor doesn't need to be a giant 4wd to get the job done.
    Government is the great fiction, through which everybody endeavors to live at the expense of everybody else.

    Bastiat

    Non nobis Domine,
    non nobis,
    sed nomini tuo da gloriam

    Knights Templar

  17. #37
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    I asked this question of folks that work the earth for a living. To a man they said stay away from hydrostatic if you plan on do more then scratch the surface.

  18. #38
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    [QUOTE=jonp;4387388]After doing research and narrowing it down to the size you think you need for the jobs you have in mind buy the next size bigger. /QUOTE]

    Which is exactly why I am looking at a 40hp model. My first thoughts were to buy a compact in the 25-30 hp range.
    Tennessee

  19. #39
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    With the hydrostatic you need to keep the rpm' up to work the fel. With a standard you control the rpm' with the throttle. I mostly use my tractor for mowing, I'll set the rpm and go it works great.moving dirt I ether have to set rpm's high and leave it or keep fiddling with it.
    when the dust settles and the smoke clears all that matters is I hear the words " well done my good and faithfully servant "

    <(*)(()><

  20. #40
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    I revisited the Kioti dealer today. Was quoted $32,500 for the NX4510 HST with FEL and backhoe. It is now my #1 choice. 5 more HP than the Kubota for $4,000 less. Plus I haven’t even tried to negotiate yet.
    45 hp will do anything I need to do. Only negative is will have to buy a heavier duty trailer to move it as it weighs in at 7,100 pounds with FEL and back hoe attached.
    Tennessee

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