I assumed when I bought my die that .452 was fine. Even ordered a .452 sizing die. Was checking diameter of the lazer cast bullets my gun likes verses the Rimrock that are ok but not as good. The Lasercast measure .454 and the Rimrock .452 which is what I caster. Time to remelt ones I got cast and buy a .454 die and sizer. I had slugged the barrel at .452 also. Forgetful in my old age. Not sure what deal is with lazercast because I bought them at .452-255 grain.
Your problem is you don't have a gun for the mold you have...buy a new gun. Problem solved
They will fit in husbands vaquero so we're good. I need a new mold and a new gun to cast for. Lol. I bought a few just to have something different to reload for. Going broke quick.
Yes, my Henry likes the 454 and the Ruger 452. Rifle is spot on..
What mold are you using. Those look good.
It is an Accurate mold 45-255A, drops right at 255 gr. with my mix..Have a few friends that beg me for them..Originally Posted by wendyj
Wendyj, if the 454" won't go through the cylinder throats, then you are only 454" until you pull the trigger, the boolit will exit the front of the cylinder at throat diameter... If you want to present a .454" boolit to the .452" barrel, that will certainly work well, but you need to have throats the boolit will go through with light drag fit, or you are using your cylinder for a 6 port sizing die as you fire the gun..
Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.
Do you powder coat? Have you tried the bullets yet? What are throat diameters on the cylinder?
If you powder coat just size first and then powder coat and you'll be pretty close to .454.
If you have at least tried shooting some of he bullets you should do that before melting them.
Have you even tried the .452's? They might surprise you. Worth a try before spending more money.
I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
Do you trust your casting thermometer?
A few musings.
This isn't a revolver I'm casting for but a Henry rifle. I just got some Alox in and the Lee sizing die will be here today or latest tomorrow. I will try sizing and shooting some before re melting. After I got all of these in and brought the die in I noticed about 1/2 are out of round at the base. Can't see real small objects good but got under some good light and found a few burrs at fear cavity of the Lee mold. I've got them out best I could and don't know if the sizing die will shape up the bullets or not. Front cavity is okay. Would have never found it but I left last 2 pours in the mold and brought it inside. Didn't really catch it on the bullets until I lubed them with Alox and was looking at each one standing them up to dry.
Following with interest in .45 colt in a Henry Rifle. All my revolvers like a .452 bullet and really don't want to change things up when I get a lever gun.
I have tried the Alox route and always got too much on the bullets. It worked but was a bit messy for me.
If you are using LLA, then perhaps you do not even need to size the cast bullets at all. Try sliding a raw cast bullet into a fired but unsized case to see if is a slip fit or if it actually does need to be sized to something smaller than the "as cast diameter". If you have already sized and lubed some of those cast bullets down to .452", just mark the bag and set them aside to either trade or melt later if necessary. If properly sealed and protected from dust, they will last for years under normal conditions and might come in handy in the future.
All my bullets including factory will not slip into a fired case without neck expansion first. If I am understanding what you are saying.
I believe you are understanding correctly. And so the present question will be why not slug the barrel and then do a chamber cast. If the case does not expand sufficiently to release the bullet, the chamber is tight and you could have pressure issues.
I realize that the brass will expand to release the bullet and then there is some spring back to the smaller diameter. Perhaps another concern might be that your bullets are oval or the blocks are not mated correctly. I believe you mentioned not seeing a defect on the bullet base. Could you take a cast bullet and locate the mold seam and then use the micrometer to take three measurements about the middle of the body of the bullet. With the seam lines at 12 and 6, measure 11 to 5, 9 to 3 and 7 to 1. Record those numbers. If 11 to 5 and 7 to 1 are not equal, the blocks are not correctly mated and that will perhaps allow gas blow by at the weak point where the blocks meet. If 9 to 3 is greater or lesser than the other two, it will be oval and while not unusual, it may allow an error in fitting the bullet to the barrel. Let us know what your micrometer shows when you take the readings. It might also be visible when you look at the side of the bullet and notice that the lube grooves are fat on one point and skinny at the other point at the mold seam.
Some resistance to the bullet entering the case is normal. It should not just fall into the case. It is also possible that your bullets are just fine, but it is something that probably should be verified just the same. If the bullet diameter is really close to the groove diameter, I would suggest the use of a soft wax bullet lube and not the tumble lube as it requires a mechanical fit by being a bit oversized. Soft wax might do OK as a flexible gasket to prevent leading of the rounds you have already cast, but you should make it a little larger next session. Good luck and have fun figuring out what you have. Dusty
Research before you buy! Many .45 colts today are made for .452 and not .454. The older ones are originally .454. Ruger's and Ubertis are .452. I can't speak for other makes, but it depends on who made them which size they are made for.
Might also mention that with your Henry rifle, if you are using light loads, it might not be sufficient to straighten out the roll crimp and that might also give a false indication as to chamber size.
My 2 year old Henry prefers the 454
I checked my slug again when I got home. Calipers only. It slugs out on high side .452. I again checked several of the laser cast and they are .454. I just ordered a NOE die .454 260 grain flat base. I can always size to .452 if an issue. The guy at NOE had the .452 but advised me that 99% of Henry's he sells for are the .454. His other suggestion was to pick up a .453 sizer but was almost 100% sure I wouldn't need it. My loads are 9.5 grains of Unique under the 255 grain which chrono graphs average of 1125 fps. Love how this iPad spells what it wants to.
I size at .454 after powder coating. Bullet is 255, load with 10 gr. Unique with a firm crimp. You saw my targets. I ship bullets to 2 other friends, they get the same results.
1000 yards??Yes, my Henry likes the 454 and the Ruger 452. Rifle is spot on..
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