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Thread: Firelapping?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

    Three-Fifty-Seven's Avatar
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    I don't recall ever buying a Ruger that did have a warranty ... they do have a service dept ... which has the option of not charging for fixing a problem gun ...
    Shawn


    John 3: 16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master contender1's Avatar
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    Bill Ruger did away with a written warranty decades ago. Why? It's CHEAPER to just offer service repairs then to have a written warranty. It's a business decision. Bill found out that with all the legal jargon, and loopholes etc,, he was better off & saved a lot by just answering issues & fixing them.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master fourarmed's Avatar
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    If you have a full set of pin gauges, find the largest one that will go in the muzzle easily and see if it will fall all the way through. If it does, you don't have a constriction problem. If it stops at the threads, then you might think about lapping. If it won't go through, and it won't fall back out the muzzle, then a short rod or a flexible one will give it the push it needs. Also, a soft boolit may be all that is necessary to make it shoot.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master






    Lloyd Smale's Avatar
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    I guess if chev was willing to fix my truck with its 10 years old id say they had a good warrantee too even if it weren't in writing.
    Quote Originally Posted by Three-Fifty-Seven View Post
    I don't recall ever buying a Ruger that did have a warranty ... they do have a service dept ... which has the option of not charging for fixing a problem gun ...
    Soldier of God, sixgun junky, Retired electrical lineman. My office was a 100 feet in the air, closer to God the better

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks all for the suggestions!
    I slugged my bore...I thought I felt a smidge of resistance under the frame threads. I then tried the tight patch on a jag, and could tell no difference in force required to shove it down a dry barrel. I re-measured my cylinder throats, and found that one throat would not pass my .358 pin gauge.?? How'd I miss that the first time around? It measures .3575...That's only .0005" less than the others. That doesn't hardly seem like it would be worth having all the throats sized to a gnat's nut sameness. Or, if I get bored, maybe I could try enlarging the throat myself. Or, maybe I could just shoot it. I'm nearly 80, and keeping all my bullets in an 8" bullseye at 25 yards seems satisfactory to me. What an interesting journey, tho!
    What detrimental effect, if any, would shooting .357 diameter bullets have, do you think? I know....try it and see!
    Cheers!
    Last edited by sniper; 06-14-2018 at 12:50 PM.

  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
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    I would suggest that you shoot some jacketed bullets through it. This has worked to fix the barrel constrictions on 2 .45c revolvers for me. I loaded some fairly hot xtp’s and shot them. I could tell when the constriction was gone. Took 250rds on one gun and 200rds on the other one. They both shot much better after, and no more leading.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check