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Thread: Firelapping?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

    Three-Fifty-Seven's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Cochise County, AZ
    I don't recall ever buying a Ruger that did have a warranty ... they do have a service dept ... which has the option of not charging for fixing a problem gun ...

    John 3: 16 For God so loved the world, that he gave his only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in him should not perish, but have everlasting life.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    contender1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Lake Lure NC
    Bill Ruger did away with a written warranty decades ago. Why? It's CHEAPER to just offer service repairs then to have a written warranty. It's a business decision. Bill found out that with all the legal jargon, and loopholes etc,, he was better off & saved a lot by just answering issues & fixing them.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master fourarmed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    If you have a full set of pin gauges, find the largest one that will go in the muzzle easily and see if it will fall all the way through. If it does, you don't have a constriction problem. If it stops at the threads, then you might think about lapping. If it won't go through, and it won't fall back out the muzzle, then a short rod or a flexible one will give it the push it needs. Also, a soft boolit may be all that is necessary to make it shoot.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master

    Lloyd Smale's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    munising Michigan
    I guess if chev was willing to fix my truck with its 10 years old id say they had a good warrantee too even if it weren't in writing.
    Quote Originally Posted by Three-Fifty-Seven View Post
    I don't recall ever buying a Ruger that did have a warranty ... they do have a service dept ... which has the option of not charging for fixing a problem gun ...
    Soldier of God, sixgun junky, Retired electrical lineman. My office was a 100 feet in the air, closer to God the better

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Thanks all for the suggestions!
    I slugged my bore...I thought I felt a smidge of resistance under the frame threads. I then tried the tight patch on a jag, and could tell no difference in force required to shove it down a dry barrel. I re-measured my cylinder throats, and found that one throat would not pass my .358 pin gauge.?? How'd I miss that the first time around? It measures .3575...That's only .0005" less than the others. That doesn't hardly seem like it would be worth having all the throats sized to a gnat's nut sameness. Or, if I get bored, maybe I could try enlarging the throat myself. Or, maybe I could just shoot it. I'm nearly 80, and keeping all my bullets in an 8" bullseye at 25 yards seems satisfactory to me. What an interesting journey, tho!
    What detrimental effect, if any, would shooting .357 diameter bullets have, do you think? I know....try it and see!
    Last edited by sniper; 06-14-2018 at 12:50 PM.

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy Wheelguns 1961's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Mid atlantic area
    I would suggest that you shoot some jacketed bullets through it. This has worked to fix the barrel constrictions on 2 .45c revolvers for me. I loaded some fairly hot xtp’s and shot them. I could tell when the constriction was gone. Took 250rds on one gun and 200rds on the other one. They both shot much better after, and no more leading.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    By all means, shoot it first. If you bench it and it is capable of better accuracy than you can consistently hold, you're home free and your concerns are immaterial - except for having enough ammo and time for proper enjoyment.

    The simplest test I've used when testing for thread related constrictions is to get the closest-fitting gage pin the bore will accept without force, probably .350 or so as mentioned above and push it through and the breech end, but gently. If there's appreciable constriction, it will stop moving when it gets to the threads - Don't force it, use light pressure only. The only option you have to remove it is to insert a short dowel from the breech end and you have little mechanical advantage to get it unstuck, so don't go gorilla on it. If there's no constriction, it'll slide right out the breech end, no problem and it's all good.

    BTW, there's another method of pressure lapping revolvers which doesn't affect chamber throats at all. It's slow, but does the job and throats remain at original diameter. This is done by anointing the origin of the rifling in the forcing cone all the way around with the abrasive you intend to use, softened to a dab-able consistency that will stay where you put it. A mild round with just 2-3 grains of something quick to get the boolit to clear the muzzle is all that's needed. On barrels which haven't been rusted or abused, I start with Crystolon 400 and 600 to finish if it's needed, and slug the bore every ten rounds or so to get a feel for the progress I'm making. Doing this over and over is a test of patience, so see what performance you can get beforehand to see whether it's really necessary. I get my abrasives from US Products at One of their sample jars will do several barrels.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check