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Thread: Suggestions for a 200-ish grainer mold for a 10mm auto (about .40 cal)???

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Russel Nash's Avatar
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    Suggestions for a 200-ish grainer mold for a 10mm auto (about .40 cal)???

    Hi all!

    I splurged earlier this month of May by purchasing a Sig 1911 in 10mm.

    10mm ammo is kinda hard to find and when I can find it, it is expensive.

    I have one of MiHec's hollow point brass molds for the .40 S&W that that I have never used yet.

    It probably drops something like a 160 grain boolit.

    It's been so long since I bought it, I can't remember.

    Is there anybody out there making a .401"/.402" sized mold that will drop a 200 grain boolit?

    This will most likely be powder coated, so lube grooves aren't really necessary.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    RobS's Avatar
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    There is always Accurate Molds:
    I designed this one for a RIA 10mm
    http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_...=40-190R-D.png

    NOE makes a mold in the 200 grain area too.
    http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.p...km6h61s0qrs5a1

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Congrats on the new 10mm blaster. I've been coveting that pistol. I'd love to hear a range report.

    I have 2 10mm molds. 2 in 200 grain.

    One is an LBT WFN. That one is a HAMMER and useful for hunting or woods protection. The mold is my best casting mold out of my humble collection. I ordered it to drop at .402". Veral will cut whatever diameter that you want. With or without lube grooves. Wide meplat might not feed in all guns.

    The other 200 grainer is an Accurate 40-200F. It is a round nose FP design with a little bevel. It is useful for everyday range time. That mold also casts beautifully. Tom will cut any diameter that you like and imagine he'd take the same design and make it grooveless too.

    Would recommend both, depending on need.

    I have an NOE 403-180-RF. Nice mold but that one casts really fat and gets fatter with the added diameter of PC. Lots of effort through the sizer. I'll likely sell that mold for that reason. Plus I'm liking bevel bases more and more for my higher volume loading.

    Lastly, a Lee 40-175-TC. Great overall bullet for 10mm and 40 S&W, but dislike the mold. I've been talking to Veral Smith about cutting a mold in that shape.
    Last edited by Taterhead; 06-01-2018 at 02:04 AM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Russel Nash's Avatar
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    Range report, eh?

    I put 20 rounds of S&B factory 180 grain ammo over the chrono. They averaged about 1,100 fps.

    I also bought a Streamlight TLR-2. It is both a light and a laser. I should have read the owner's manual before heading to the range. The windage and elevation adjustments for the laser are two teeny-tiny allen screws. One full turn of either screw had me actually putting bullets just into the back berm instead of the target at 7 yards.

    So there was a lot of trial and error involved before I got the bullet impact and red laser dot kinda close to being on top of each other. (As a side note, I have shot bowling pin matches with a Crimson Trace grip'ed .45ACP 1911. The CTC grips were dead nuts on).

    Over the course of my first and only range session with it so far, I put maybe about 60 rounds of that factory S&B ammo through it. It came with 4 factory mags. The magazine followers have this raised dimple or bump on them. So just once the gun jammed while feeding the very last round. I think the rim of that very bottom round got hung up on that bump or dimple and it kept it from feeding into the chamber.

    The gun ejects brass to about the 4 o'clock position with gusto! Unfortunately, this wasn't my normal range/club that I go to. This particular range had clover and grass that was ankle high, so I might have recovered a third of my brass. .

    I have yet to see if any of my recoil springs meant for my .45 1911s will work. This Sig does not come with a full length guide rod, but rather the older GI style half rod. It would be nice if a heavier recoil spring would keep it from slinging brass into the next county. My other club/range has a gravel "floor" which makes finding brass so much easier. Barring that, I will have to remember to bring a tarp with me... or maybe one of those inflatible kiddie pools if the brass won't burn holes through it.

    I might have pics of the groups I shot that day using the sights (not the laser).

    The search for a kydex holster that fits both the gun the light/laser is currently ongoing.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Russel Nash's Avatar
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    The Sig 1911 Tac Ops came with front strap checkering.

    It is my first gun with such a feature. My other 1911s that I shot IDPA and USPSA matches with just had their front straps covered with skateboard tape. I really like the checkering. It's a nice touch.

    It also came shipped already prelubed with this white grease. It oozed from the slide/frame rails and just became really annoying.

    I went ahead and field stripped to wipe off all the grease. The I oiled it CLP...which also oozed out of everywhere because I have a tendency of over lube things. But still cosmetically better than the white streaks. Because the finish is nitron, where the oil shows looks way different that the rest of the gun. It's not like a blued gun or parkerized gun. I packed an old white t-shirt in my range bag just so I could wipe up the excess oil. Brian Enos of the forum of the same name sells a lube called "slide guide" that I am now willing to try.

    Even though Sig's website calls the grip material "polymer", the grips felt very G10-ish or VZ-ish. They say the Sig 1911s have strayed a bit from the GI spec 1911 dimensions. I have dabbled in making my own 1911 grips before, and the grip screw spacing is right around say 3.0625" . It would be cool if Sig kept those same dimensions because my jigs are already set up for that grip screw spacing. I haven't had a chance to measure them yet.

    The groups pictured above were shot from about a good 7 to 8 paces away. The sights aren't dead nuts on. Maybe a shorter rear sight would help?

    At some point, I will spring for a 9mm 1911. Sig makes or did make a 9mm Tac Ops model too. My experience so far with the 10mm has been good, so they have jumped to the head of the line for my 9mm search.

    EDIT: the forun software appears to have turned my pics 90 degrees. The center of the orange dot was my aiming point. The bullets were landing ....oh... about 1.5" high and slightly to the left.

    The recoil/muzzle flippiness wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. The internet would have you believe that only the .50 Action Express is more powerful than the 10mm. Maybe ammo manufacturers haved dialed down on the round's uumph since first appearing in the 80's???

    IIRC, the mags held just 8 rounds comfortably. It felt like a 9th round would go but I didn't force it. So pics about should have just 8 bullet holes.
    Last edited by Russel Nash; 06-01-2018 at 03:50 AM.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Russel Nash's Avatar
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    By the way.... thanks for the replies and "intell".

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    Boolit Master StuBach's Avatar
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    Just to throw in, Miha just did a run of the 10mm WFN Oreo bullet. Original runs had stellar reviews though I have not shot mine yet.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-190gr-(rerun)

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    Boolit Master Russel Nash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StuBach View Post
    Just to throw in, Miha just did a run of the 10mm WFN Oreo bullet. Original runs had stellar reviews though I have not shot mine yet.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-190gr-(rerun)
    Thank you sir!

    Okay....I am a little lost.

    I know I have been away for a while, but what does "WFN" mean?

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    WFN means Wide Flat Nose, a nomenclature that Veral Smith of LBT uses.

    I shoot 10mm from various autos and a revolver.

    Since I also shoot .40 I have various lighter moulds for that that also work in 10mm. I use the cheap Lee 175 gr. 6 cavity to make shooting loads for steel plates, I have a pair of the Lyman 200 gr. TC moulds, I have a NOE 200 gr. mould TC mould for making heavier bullets that I can load long in the .40, I also have that NOE mould posted above to make heavier loads and lastly I have a LBT 200 gr. WFN mould to make my full power everything loads.

    A few pics:

    Here is a pic from L to R :

    200 gr. bullet I pulled from some doubletap 10mm ammo
    the 200 gr. WFN CG from my LBT mould
    the Lyman 200 gr. TC bullet with only one of the two lube grooves filled up





    Here is a pic of the WFN bullet loaded in between a 9x25 and a 180 JHP in 10mm




    Next is that NOE 200 gr. TC bullet below you see it unloaded, loaded to .40 length, loaded long in a .40 case and loaded in a 10mm.




    I also make my own .40 jacketed bullets using fired 9mm cases as the jacket. I can make some interesting things that you cant buy in the store just by using the right combo of fired case and bullet core.

    In the Pic below L to R:

    195 gr. JHP using 9mm case
    195 gr. JHP with cannelure for revolver shooting using 9mm case
    210 gr. JSP using 9mm case
    240 gr. JHP using a longer 38 super case as the jacket



  10. #10
    Boolit Master Russel Nash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intel6 View Post
    WFN means Wide Flat Nose, a nomenclature that Veral Smith of LBT uses.

    I shoot 10mm from various autos and a revolver.

    Since I also shoot .40 I have various lighter moulds for that that also work in 10mm. I use the cheap Lee 175 gr. 6 cavity to make shooting loads for steel plates, I have a pair of the Lyman 200 gr. TC moulds, I have a NOE 200 gr. mould TC mould for making heavier bullets that I can load long in the .40, I also have that NOE mould posted above to make heavier loads and lastly I have a LBT 200 gr. WFN mould to make my full power everything loads.

    A few pics:

    Here is a pic from L to R :

    200 gr. bullet I pulled from some doubletap 10mm ammo
    the 200 gr. WFN CG from my LBT mould
    the Lyman 200 gr. TC bullet with only one of the two lube grooves filled up





    Here is a pic of the WFN bullet loaded in between a 9x25 and a 180 JHP in 10mm




    Next is that NOE 200 gr. TC bullet below you see it unloaded, loaded to .40 length, loaded long in a .40 case and loaded in a 10mm.




    I also make my own .40 jacketed bullets using fired 9mm cases as the jacket. I can make some interesting things that you cant buy in the store just by using the right combo of fired case and bullet core.

    In the Pic below L to R:

    195 gr. JHP using 9mm case
    195 gr. JHP with cannelure for revolver shooting using 9mm case
    210 gr. JSP using 9mm case
    240 gr. JHP using a longer 38 super case as the jacket


    Wow!

    I am impressed!

    Have you had any issues with the WFN boolits feeding in a semi-auto?

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    I have three 200 grain 10mm molds: an RCBS, NOE and one I designed using the Mountain Molds online design tool. The RCBS is a little longer than the other two, so it needs to be seated a little deeper to fit the magazine. That takes up powder capacity and ups pressure a bit.
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russel Nash View Post
    Wow!

    I am impressed!

    Have you had any issues with the WFN boolits feeding in a semi-auto?
    You did not address the question to me, but I have the same LBT mold. Man, that casts beautifully. Mine has both GC and PB cavities. No issue feeding in my stock Glock 20. The only problem I have is that I can't load more than about 11 in a 15 round mag. That boolit likes to be pushed a bit for best velocities, and Accurate No. 9 running hot does the trick.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Russel Nash View Post
    Wow!

    I am impressed!

    Have you had any issues with the WFN boolits feeding in a semi-auto?
    Nope, runs great in the autos and also works well in my revolver!

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Found a pic of the NOE 200 WFN bullet I make. This is a 5 cavity so I can make a lot of them so this has become my general shooter bullet in 10mm.

    In the pic below L to R:

    as cast cull bullet

    Bullet coated in Hi Tek, gas check applied and sized

    Bullet loaded in 10mm case


    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #15
    Boolit Master Russel Nash's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Intel6 View Post
    Found a pic of the NOE 200 WFN bullet I make. This is a 5 cavity so I can make a lot of them so this has become my general shooter bullet in 10mm.

    In the pic below L to R:

    as cast cull bullet

    Bullet coated in Hi Tek, gas check applied and sized

    Bullet loaded in 10mm case


    Click image for larger version. 

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    so with the gas check on, how fast are you pushing them?

    I have never done anything with gas checks yet.

  16. #16
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    I have the NOE 403-200 WFN, drops at 198 grains, and Iím pushing it to 1100 FPS in plain base form. I havenít worked my way up to max yet and I know I have quite a bit more room to go. I havenít found the need for gas checks w/ pistol calibers. This includes shooting them out of carbines at much high velocities then youíre gonna get out of a pistol length barrel.

    I also have the MP 402-220. That one drops at 229 grains in non hollow point. This one is also a plain bass design. I have not had a chance to chronograph it. I can tell you that itís moving quite a bit slower then the NOE. But this is to be expected due to it being significantly heavier.

    Both molds are great options. Just depends on how much lead you want to throw down range. Iíve been using the 180 grain molds I have more often to conserve lead.

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    Boolit Master Russel Nash's Avatar
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    double tap

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check