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Thread: New Kimber springs

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Middle Tennessee
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    611

    New Kimber springs

    I've posted about this pistol some time back, haven't made any changes yet, and haven't shot it much the last couple years.

    Recently, I've been shooting it a bit more.

    It's a Kimber Eclipse Target II (.45 ACP), Gov't model, steel frame. It's very accurate (for me) and I enjoy it by and large, but it has always thrown brass quite a way (10'-15') and with very little consistency as to direction, and about once every 150 rounds, one straight back in my face. Also, I've never "light loaded" it, and likely never will. I usually run H&G 68's (200 grain SWC's) at 960fps with 6.3 grans of H-Universal (love this load), I'll also probably start running some 230's (probably Lee 230 TC's) at 1,000fps with Ramshot Silhouette (this will be a hunting load, not shot frequently).

    First off, I'm probably going to try to put in a new smaller radius firing pin stop from EGW. From what I've read, that'll help with the ejection issues while cutting down on wear and tear, especially with heavier loads.

    I've been looking at Wolff Springs. Thinking about replacing the stock recoil spring (no one seems to brag on factory 1911 springs as it is) with either a 16, 17, or even a 18.5 lb. spring. I don't see the need to run super heavy, I'm not loading Supers or Rowlands, just looking for reliability, smoothness, and "friendlier" ejection. I'm guessing the gun has close to 2000 rounds on it, so it's probably due a swap anyhow. Any opinions or recommendations?

    Is there any need to change the main/hammer spring? Mine is whatever stock Kimber is. Standard seems to be 23lb. Any need to go lighter or heavier here? Any need to replace in terms of maintenance?

    Do I need to replace the firing pin spring? Ignition has seemed consistent. I run CCI 300's pretty much all the time.

    Wolff also advertises an extractor spring for External Extractor Model Kimbers (mine is one of those) that is supposed to be a bit stouter. Anyone have any experience or opinions?

    I've already looked around a bit on this subject, but would like to hear from the good folks on this site. Thanks in advance for any replies!!!

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lincoln, Nebraska
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    5,027
    Unless the stop is slanted to match the hammer angle, which is a fair amount of work, the small radius stop will not confer its potential slide attenuation. This is not the minor deal most of those who discuss it let on.

    Best idea is a properly slanted stop and 16 lb spring. Firing pin springs should be replaced periodically, generally at the same time as other springs are replaced.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Middle Tennessee
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    Stop appears more or less vertical in the slide, in relation to the hammer, which leans in towards the stop somewhat.
    Stop does have a pretty long angle at the bottom, which I'm sure grants the slide quite a bit more leverage than a flat bottom (or a shorter, sharper angle) would.

    I'll give it a whirl. They're pretty cheap and look pretty difficult to screw up in terms of installation.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Lincoln, Nebraska
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    The face of the stop needs to be slanted. This is more work than putting a radius on the sharp bottom edge, which is all most who install one do. This is a considerable mistake. The gun when fired does not move the slide in the same way as when racked by hand. Hand racking gives a false impression the stop is working when it is in fact having much less effect than if the stop was correctly modified for slide attenuation.

    Most material is removed from the top above and near the firing pin hole and progressively less as you near the bottom.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Middle Tennessee
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    It still looks straight up and down to me, but I went ahead an ordered the stop from EGW. I figured when I take it out, I can lay it on a table, compare it, and file in any angle. I'm pretty handy with a file, but I sorta wonder if the factory stop was correct to begin with. We'll see.

    Be aware, EGW does not list a Series 80, .45, Stainless Stop WITH THE BOMAR CUT on their website, but they will make them.

    Also went ahead and ordered some ISMI springs from EGW. 16lb recoil, 22lb hammer, and firing pin spring. Prolly call Wolff and try one of their extractor springs while I've got it torn down.
    Last edited by Potsy; 06-05-2018 at 05:57 PM. Reason: spelling

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tom, VA
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    4,125
    Many of us run 18.5 pound recoil springs for Govt. 45 ACP 1911 pistols. I also use the H&G #68 (who doesn't? ), and run them considerably slower than you at around 800 fps. The 18.5 pound spring is perfect. If I was running at 960 fps I'd consider a heavier spring.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Lincoln, Nebraska
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    5,027
    No slant, no significant effect from swapping stops. That is how it is likely to occur. Resign yourself to slanting the stop.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check