RepackboxTitan ReloadingLoad DataMidSouth Shooters Supply
WidenersInline FabricationLee PrecisionReloading Everything
RotoMetals2
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 23

Thread: PPU headstamp 38 Special

  1. #1
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439

    PPU headstamp 38 Special

    I ended up with some 38 Special casings that have a "PPU" headstamp. Attachment 221340

    When resizing and attempting to deprime these, the primer almost never comes out. The decapping pin just bulges the primer but it remains in the case. They are Boxer primed.
    They do not appear to have crimped primers and when the primer is eventually removed, it shows no sign of being crimped or sealed.

    Who make these and why are they such a PITA?

  2. #2
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    23
    Privi Partizan, made in the old Yugoslavia ( Serbia now ? )
    Usually excellent quality brass.
    Whatungarongaro te tangata toitū te whenua


    Man shall disappear, but the land always remains

  3. #3
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439
    Maybe I got a bad lot?

    At first I thought it might be a problem with the decapping pin but every other casing (Federal, W-W, RP, PMC, Speer, etc. ) sails through without a hiccup. The die and decapping pin are set correctly. I started setting aside the troublesome casings and they turned out to all be PPU casings. The primer would just bulge but remain in the casing. With some effort I got one primer out and it looked perfectly normal except for the now dome shaped cup. No sealant, no crimp or even sign of crimp.
    Once I got the primer out, the casing would accept a new primer without a problem.
    It has got me fooled.
    Last edited by Petrol & Powder; 05-30-2018 at 10:36 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    jcren's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    South, Central Ok
    Posts
    2,173
    I have problems with brass that has been wet tumbled then stored with primers still in. Especially brass (not plated) primers. End up corroded into place. Shot of jb blaster and let em sit overnight works wonders.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    NW GA
    Posts
    7,243
    I’ve reloaded a bunch of PPU brass and it’s as good as any main stream commercial brass I’ve picked up over the years.

  6. #6
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439
    Quote Originally Posted by jcren View Post
    I have problems with brass that has been wet tumbled then stored with primers still in. Especially brass (not plated) primers. End up corroded into place. Shot of jb blaster and let em sit overnight works wonders.

    I don't wet tumble my brass but that doesn't mean this particular brass wasn't wet tumbled by someone else.
    Once I get the primers out the brass is fine.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


    nagantguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    2,704
    That is strange ; ppu is top notch brass a year or so ago I had a lot of 500 once fired Winchester.45 acp brass and and same thing about 50-75 of them would just bulge and not pop out. Same thing when they did come out with a lot of work the brass took a new primer just fine

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    1,126
    The only such brass I've used was in 7mm Rem. Mag. Cases are very snug to not fitting at all in a custom priming tool shellholder. Brass weighs almost 15% more than Winchester brass, a very significant difference. Other than that, it works fine. Brass may be more expensive than ever, but is still cheap when one considers normal case life. Anything causing problems that aren't easily remedied should probably go in the scrap pile.

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    13
    I sometimes have problems with CCI primer anvils forming around the decapper rod, not dropping off, then being drawn back into the case on the upstroke. Just enough that it sticks there and the case cannot be removed from the shell holder.
    Could this be the issue?

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Space Coast, FL
    Posts
    2,319
    How about a correct sized punch and tap one clear just to see if/what? I have 38 brass that my father used hard that is my age and older, still good stuff!

  11. #11
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439
    calico - I know what you are speaking about and I've had that happen but that's not what is occurring in this instance.

    Gtek - I got some of the primers out and they are fairly normal in all respects, other than being really hard to remove.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy res45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    China Grove,NC
    Posts
    432
    I think the issue is the PPU along with some other foreign made brass have tight primer pockets and use soft primer cup material, I've noticed it more in pistol brass not so much in rifles brass. I had a similar issue with some PPU 9mm cases, the primer cup would bulge and in some cases punch right through. If I remember correctly I ended up using a Lee Universal decapper and just going slow, I don't remember setting many case aside and those that I did I just drilled the primer out and reamed the primer pocket out with my tool to remove primer pocket crimps. I just hate throwing away a good piece of brass.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master




    bruce drake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Brownsburg, Indiana
    Posts
    4,231
    PPU has tight primer pockets as res45 has mentioned. That said, its great brass. I usually ream the primer pocket with a countersink and the now-beveled edge eliminates any further issues with removing spent primers in further reloads.
    I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
    Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    MI (summer) - AZ (winter)
    Posts
    5,098
    I've never had an issue with 38 spec. PPU but I have with 9mm. I bought about 3,400 1 X fired of 9mm a couple of years ago that was all mixed head stamps. I experienced pretty much the same as you with some of the PPU casings. I never pictured a primer while de-capping (I use a universal de-capping die) but some were mighty tough to get out. After af ew of them, I tossed the PPU in a separate container to isolate them. I noticed that on some of them, I had a hard time getting the primer in and seated with my hand primer - I figured it was due to extra tight primer pockets. Overall though, the PPU brass I've found to be nice.

    I don't have a primer pocket swagger die - it would be interesting to take some of yours and run them through a primer pocket swagger that's used to convert military brass to see if it corrected the problem.

  15. #15
    Super Moderator


    ShooterAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    12,056
    I've had the same problem with PPU 38 special brass, and S&B 45ACP range pickup brass. I separate them all and throw them in a bucket. Once I get a worthwhile amount I run them through my Dillon 600 Superswage. No more problems after that.

  16. #16
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    7,439
    Thanks, I don't have that many of them and once I get the primer out, they're fine.

    It's a not big deal, just annoying when one interrupts my rhythm on a progressive press. I've culled out most of them.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    barry s wales uk
    Posts
    2,655
    My 45/70 and 223 brass is mostly ppu never had a problem ,yet.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Orange, VA NOW
    Posts
    6,490
    My suspicion is that they use an adhesive sealant that in addition to the tight primer pocket makes for a stubborn primer that resists removal. I have only experienced that problem with 9 mm brass.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master


    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    NH
    Posts
    3,783
    Lee depriming die will get rid of it. IMHO have yetto have a primer it will not de-prime.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    SE MISSOURI
    Posts
    969
    I had this problem also. It’s been so long ago I forgot what brand of brass it was with. I thank it was 9 mm.They seemed to be glued in and also had soft primers. My lee decpping die I adjusted a little longer and it took care of it. Also a few where very hard to press loose and I had to run my press down two to three times to get them to come out . I would spin the case in the shell holder a little bit and try again. I thank they use some kind of clear sealer on the primers because the cases and the primers looked normal. Could not see any if it was on them.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check