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Thread: PPU headstamp 38 Special

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    california
    Posts
    499
    I always deprime before cleaning, then tumble with pins. I won't put a dirty case in my dies. Stainless pins clean the primer pocket as well as the inside.Yes, it is an extra step. And yes, I do have a progressive. What is better? Running that junk from the primers thru my progressive or depriming and cleaning before running them in my dies. Just food for thought. By the way, I use a Lee decapper and haven't had one yet that didn't come out, and I've run a lot of PPU's through that decapper.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    4,328
    Fortunately I don't have a lot of them. It's not a huge problem but it sure is annoying when one makes it into the progressive press. The primer bulges but doesn't come out of the casing, that locks the casing in the shell plate and locks the shell plate up. The easiest solution at that point is to grab the casing with a pair of pliers and rip it out of the press. If I can catch the offending casings before they make it in the press, I can easily de-prime them off the press and they work fine after that.

    The brass is fine once you get that first primer out. I've culled most of them out of the lot.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check