Titan ReloadingWidenersMidSouth Shooters SupplyInline Fabrication
RotoMetals2Graf & SonsStainLess Steel MediaLee Precision

Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: Looking for work reaming .36 pitta cylinders

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    9

    Looking for work reaming .36 pitta cylinders

    Hey everyone, im new to the forum and hopefully am posting this in the correct area of the site. I have some pietta .36 navy's and the Chambers measure .367-368, with groove to groove diameter at .372, wondering if anyone out there reams cap n ball cylinders and could help open up my Chambers over groove diameter to about .001 over, so to about .373 . Just looking to get the most accuracy out of my navies. Heard of others doing this and it helped a bit with closing up their spread. Thanks to all in advance.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    10,319
    PM Dougguy. I don't know if he's done C&B but I'll bet he can.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    9
    I have messaged him and we have been talking, although he doesn't work on cap n balls much he did say .375 was possible, but probably not .373, but we're still talking on possibly settling at .375 chambers. Does anyone have an idea or expreience on knowing if .003 over groove diameter on cap n ball revolvers is too much or should I only go .001-.002 over at max? Anyone able to help with some input?

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Good Cheer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    the Ark
    Posts
    2,888
    Just fyi...

    Once upon a time I asked Erik at hollowpointmold if he would do his precision grinding work on percussion revolver chambers to the size I wanted and he declined the job.

    John Taylor has done two revolvers for me to make a .40 and a .41 from (repro 1851 and 1858). The work you are describing is probably well within his capabilities. At present he is reportedly booked up for about a half a year.

    Another possible means of accomplishing what you are after is to get a 9.4mm (.370") reamer and either doing the reaming or finding someone to do it. That's what I'm fixing to do with a 6" barreled 1849 with .32 groove diameter and .310 chambers. Found an inexpensive 8.1mm reamer on ebay.

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    9
    Will you be doing your reaming by hand or on a drill press? I was thinking I could do it but it seems as if this type of a job would be something that can't really be done unless special machinery was used to center the reamer etc. I was actually going to open it up slowly with very fine sandpaper and a dowel, keeping it snug just adding a single layer of sand paper around the end of the dowel each time it wore away at the chamber, I was going to run the wooden dowel through the barrel too so that its always perfectly straight ...but I stopped myself from possibly ruining a good cylinder. I know precision is very important for cartridge guns when it comes to chambers...but I wasn't sure if the rules are just as strict with an Italian colt replica which to begin with doesn't have the measurements cut to precision. I'm thinking my idea would have been a bad one. Are there any hand reamers that can be had in the measurements I need that will give great results?

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



    curator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Fort Myers, Florida
    Posts
    1,276
    Try Goon's gunworks for chamber or action work on cap & ball revolvers. He posts occasionally on here.
    http://www.goonsgunworks.com/

  7. #7
    Boolit Master



    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    tropical southern vermont
    Posts
    2,208
    Last time i checked with Mike, he was not doing chamber reaming. Perhaps he's doing them now . . .
    Being human is not for sissies.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


    Soundguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    N Central Florida
    Posts
    1,263
    find a REAL machinist. it's pretty much just true and endmill.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Bozoland Mt.
    Posts
    1,396
    You could purchase a .373 chucking reamer for about 25 bucks.
    If it was my pistol, I would chuck the reamer and work it down each hole of the cylinder by hand.

    The existing holes would be good guides, don't force it, and don't sweat a few thousandths difference in depth of the cylinder.
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    9
    Mr. Clodhopper, do you know of a tool I could use to Chuck it by hand and keep it centered? Is there a kit or something kinda like what brownells has for .45 cylinders? I can work tools, but I've never reamed...but I'm not a complete greenhorn with tools either.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Bozoland Mt.
    Posts
    1,396
    Well if I was doing it, I would take piece of 2X4 lumber and cut a hole in it with a hole saw as close as possible to the diameter of your cylinder. Then cut across the hole with the grain, a rip cut.
    This piece of wood will allow you to grip the cylinder firmly in a vise with out damaging it.

    If you can, find a drill chuck to clamp on the reamer shank so you have enough traction to turn the reamer by hand.


    A small amount of oil, first choice, thread cutting oil, second choice chainsaw bar oil. any oil is better than dry, will help the cut.

    With a small square check to see your reamer is square to the face of the cylinder. Check two directions 90 degrees apart.


    Gently turn the reamer with light down pressure, ream until the tool reaches the bottom of the hole. It will take a lot of revolutions to cut away the excess material. If you choose to use a power tool, keep the rpm about 300 and feed about 1 1/2" per minute, very few drills turn this slow. I recommend turning it by hand.

    Reamers have a slight bevel on the end, it will find center, you keep it reasonably straight and the hole will guide the reamer.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	reamer1.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	34.1 KB 
ID:	221452


    Here is what I would use, but the reamer is .374, no .373 reamer in my tool box.
    Last edited by clodhopper; 06-01-2018 at 10:21 PM. Reason: add pic
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    9
    Mr.clodhopper, I think your idea on how to get it done would provide excellent results. Thank you for the info! After reaching out to many gunsmiths I finally found one has done what i want and willing to do it at an affordable price. Thank you all who responded. The gunsmith is Mr.Charlie Hahn if any of you are interested in getting work done

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check