Temp control on Lee 4-20 bottom pour with PID

[SharuLady]

Hi, Do I need to use the Temp control on the bottom pour or does the PID control it with or without setting the pot temp control on the pot?

I think the PID should control it as the pot is/will be plugged into the PID. But just want to check to be sure.

TYIA,

SharuLady

[Camper64]

With the pot plugged into the PID, you set the temp control to max and let the PID control the pot.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

No need for Lee's temp control with a PID hooked up. So you can either set the lee temp control to Max, or if you have some electrical knowledge, you can re-wire you Lee pot to bypass the controller...I'd only recomend that, if you have a defective temp control...you know, because of liability if it starts a fire.

[bangerjim]

All you have to do is put (solder) a short jumper wire across the 2 terminals of the bi-metal temp “switch” on the Lee pot.

Very simple to do.....no “electrical knowledge” really required.

Or just set it to HIGH, as said, and leave it there.

All my Lee pots are normally set on 5.5-6 for every casting session. Perfect boolits every time. No PID needed. No thermometer needed.

Bangerjim

[Geezer in NH]

Simple way IMHO is turn it up on the LEE control to the top then IF you have a pid that does not come with the pot put the probe into the pot ,then let the Control for the PID do it's thing?

If not please explain your question so everyone actually knows what you are asking instead of having to refer.

[SharuLady]

Hi, Ok 1st off, sorry for not getting back to this sooner with any replies but... we had a bad storm here, lot of lightning, rain, wind etc. It knocked out our internet service for 2 days, just got it back a little after 9pm last night.

Since I had to just go for it alone, I played around with the pot & PID and managed to figure it out. The pot was set at 6.5 and connected to the PID. The PID did its thing and controlled the temp of the melt. So since I had the melt hot I decided to try pouring some boolits. A Lee mold (2 cavity) 105 gr. for a 380 acp.

That is when a new problem arose with the Lee 4 20 bottom pour. The pours were coming out too fast & hard causing it to blow the lead back out thru the sprue plate. Needless to say the boolits were not coming out good. Adjusted the screw to slow the pour but it wasn't working well. I noticed the lever when attempting to begin the pour had a catch and wouldn't allow to lift the handle up slightly to slow the pour. It was like it was binding or catching on the assembly. So the pours were all or nothing. SO, after many numerous attempts to get it to work properly I had to stop & drain the pot into the Lee Ingot molds so that I could a better look at what was catching.

So now I am working on this so that I can do some casting.

Ty one & all for your replies above.

SharuLady

[OS OK]

Just tighten the shoulder screw that allows the bracket to slide up. If it's backed out it'll allow the bracket to catch on the shoulder. Don't over tighten or you'll strip it out.

[popper]

That screw fits into a groove on the rod, sometimes it gets out of alignment and slips out of the groove. I solved that problem by removing the screw and adding a cheap tap handle to the rod. Adds weight, easy to spin the rod to reduce drips and I adjusted for proper flow rate. You also have to watch that the rod tip doesn't come out of the valve pocket completely - hard to get it back in when the pot is hot and alloy is flowing all over everywhere..

[SharuLady]

Just tighten the shoulder screw that allows the bracket to slide up. If it's backed out it'll allow the bracket to catch on the shoulder. Don't over tighten or you'll strip it out.

Hi, Ok, will try again with the adjusting screw as I did mention before that I tried working with adjusting it before but to no avail. But it can't hurt to try again. But I will also clean out the pot again and polish and lament the rod once again. I had done this once before when new and then put in water in the pot and heated it up and no leaks. Then let it cool and left the water in the pot for 36 hrs. and had only a couple of drops of water after that time. Since lead is heavier than water, I figured it should be good to not leak.

I will say that with this new problem on the 4-20 (the catch) it did not leak from the spout. So just need to fix the control screw adjustment and I hope this will eliminate the problem of the heavy flow.

I am determined & probably (more than likely) stubborn enough to not let this beat me or deter me!!!

SharuLady

[SharuLady]

That screw fits into a groove on the rod, sometimes it gets out of alignment and slips out of the groove. I solved that problem by removing the screw and adding a cheap tap handle to the rod. Adds weight, easy to spin the rod to reduce drips and I adjusted for proper flow rate. You also have to watch that the rod tip doesn't come out of the valve pocket completely - hard to get it back in when the pot is hot and alloy is flowing all over everywhere..

Hi, I have noticed that the screw has gotten out of alignment but it has not yet ever slipped out of the groove. I like your idea of adding that cheap tap handle to the rod. Adding a little more weight is also a good thing.

TYVM for this great idea! But will have to probably enlist my husbands help to do this fix. He is much better than I when implementing an idea.

SharuLady

[OS OK]

Hi, Ok, will try again with the adjusting screw as I did mention before that I tried working with adjusting it before but to no avail. But it can't hurt to try again. But I will also clean out the pot again and polish and lament the rod once again. I had done this once before when new and then put in water in the pot and heated it up and no leaks. Then let it cool and left the water in the pot for 36 hrs. and had only a couple of drops of water after that time. Since lead is heavier than water, I figured it should be good to not leak.

I will say that with this new problem on the 4-20 (the catch) it did not leak from the spout. So just need to fix the control screw adjustment and I hope this will eliminate the problem of the heavy flow.

I am determined & probably (more than likely) stubborn enough to not let this beat me or deter me!!!

SharuLady

The screw on the right is the one I was referring to. When sitting in front of the pot this screw can back out quite a bit and you won't notice, this one is starting to back out a little but not enough to catch the bracket that slides on it. It's sheet metal type threads are about 5/8's inch long so it'll back out a ways without falling out.




Another aid to keeping this ole drip-O-matic from creating drip-art is hanging this large nut on the handle to give the valve assembly some weight. The valve assembly steel is lighter than the Pb so there's some buoyancy to it just like steel wheel weight clips floating in the Pb smelting pot.
Use bees wax or candle wax for flux and leave the sawdust to the smelting pot or it will find it's way to the valve and cause a drip too.

Hang in there...you'll eventually tame that ole pot . . . c h a r l i e

[SharuLady]

The screw on the right is the one I was referring to. When sitting in front of the pot this screw can back out quite a bit and you won't notice, this one is starting to back out a little but not enough to catch the bracket that slides on it. It's sheet metal type threads are about 5/8's inch long so it'll back out a ways without falling out.




Another aid to keeping this ole drip-O-matic from creating drip-art is hanging this large nut on the handle to give the valve assembly some weight. The valve assembly steel is lighter than the Pb so there's some buoyancy to it just like steel wheel weight clips floating in the Pb smelting pot.
Use bees wax or candle wax for flux and leave the sawdust to the smelting pot or it will find it's way to the valve and cause a drip too.

Hang in there...you'll eventually tame that ole pot . . . c h a r l i e

Hi, TY for the pic and explanation's. Pictures are always helpful. Good idea on the extra weight on the handle. As of right now the pot is not leaking, but... being a Lee Pot one never knows when it might start. I only use sawdust & wax in my smelting pot and only wax in the bottom pours. Don't need any debris causing problems in the bottom pours.

Oh, need to add that I have fixed the problem with the too heavy pour. So now testing out a couple of molds after heating them on the hot plate and learning the idiosyncrasies of the mold and what they want/need to pour good boolits.

SharuLady

Ps - had a slight problem with 1 mold (a Lee 2 cavity) 105gr. The screw on the sprue plate keeps loosing up, Have to keep an eye on it. Is there something like Lock tight that can be used to keep it tight? Or will it hold up to the heat?
Also while emptying the mold The pin on the mold that holds the handle on came out but got it put back in. Is this a common occurrence with these pins?

[dikman]

Regarding the sprue plate pin mine have a small wave washer and there is just enough clearance to allow the screw to be tightened yet still allow the sprue plate to move - but they still come loose occasionally! Loctite wouldn't work unless you use a very high temp version - and then you'd never get the screw out!

Yep, I've had these pins on the "new" molds back out!! On one I had to drill it out, tap it and replace with a suitable small screw. In my opinion the older designs were much better.

[DukeInFlorida]

Long long ago I gave up on the crappy quality Lee bottom pour pots. There's a reason they are under $50, and the good rcbs pot is over $300. One of the frustrating aspects of the Lee is the dispensing rod, lift handle, etc. I gave up on trying to make it work properly. Was eating way too much into my casting time. With the rcbs I can dispense lead exactly and control the temp more evenly and reliably. Good luck. You'll need it.

[dikman]

I agree about the handle design. I rebuilt mine so that the handle is the same as my RCBS.

[SharuLady]

Hi, I contacted LEE, Inc today, spoke with a Tech on the problem I am having With the Lee DC #90305 - 356-102-1R - 102gr.
The problem was 3 fold on this mold.

1) The screw that holds the sprue plate keeps loosing up (have to keep an eye on it). Tech said to only tighten the screw when the mold is cold.

2) the pins that hold the handles onto the mold, 1 has come out 2x's and the other 1 has started backing out. Tech said to pound them back in and then use a nail set to stake them. They will not back out or come out then.

3) The sprue plate is warped and elevated above the face of the mold, causing major flashing on the base of the boolit. The body of the boolits is fine with no flashing, just the base. They are sending me a new screw and new sprue plate at no cost.

JFYIO, I mentioned to him that I use a PID to control the temp on the 4-20 bottom pour. Tech told me to set the temperature knob on the 4-20 to the highest setting & since the PID is controlling the temp then with the 4-20 set to highest temp, it will not keep cycling the thermostat because the PID will be controlling it. IF not set to the highest setting then the 4-20 will be constantly cycling.

There were at least 3 gentlemen that replied on this thread that also stated to turn the pot to the highest setting as well. TY gentlemen!!

SharuLady

[fredj338]

I also run my 4-20 wide open with the PID controlling the temp. IT's a cheap casting pot but does work well if you don't do two things; never empty it, never melt scrap in it. I never let my pot get much below half. This keeps foreign mat'l out of the pour spout, the common issue with any bottom pour pot dripping imo.