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Thread: fast way of making 7.62x25 brass from .223 brass..

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Mauser 98K's Avatar
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    fast way of making 7.62x25 brass from .223 brass..

    this is sort of a tutorial on how i currently make 7.62x25 brass for my CZ-52 from used .223 brass. this is the fastest way i know how to make it right now. the only problem is that to make it fast you must invest in some tools, as doing it all by hand takes a while and is a PITA.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFKOMObl6KM

  2. #2
    In Remembrance

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    I find it easier to use 38Spl cases, no reaming. Just machine the head and extractor, which is simpler in the long run. Or......just buy the things from Starline since those are kinds cheap.
    Click to see what I'm doing and have available, this takes you to the VS (Vendor Sponsor) section of the site. Currently..25Rem,30Rem, 32Rem, 35Rem, 257Roberts, 358Win, 338Fed, 357 Herrett, 30 Herrett, 401 Winchester, 300Sav, 221 Fireball, 260Rem, 222Rem, 250 Savage, 8mm Mauser (AKA 8x57), 25-20WCF

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  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy Mauser 98K's Avatar
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    well i got a mountain of .223, so which is why im using that brass. if i was gonna make from the .38 special id end up making a custom ground cutter and put a stop on the cross slide of my lathe and just put the case in a collet chuck to do them. turn the rim off and recut the extractor grove at the same time. i might look into that later as i come across .38 and .357 brass regularly.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    A tip: I replaced my steel cutter with the carbide cutter on my Lyman trimmer and never looked back thirty some years ago.

    I have made 7.62 x25 from .223 as well but these days I only convert them if they are unusuable as .223’s due to the availability of cheaper brass, fired and new ones as well.

    I will take the 223 case down to the next available use depending on it’s condition. I have longer options such as 300 BO and 222 Rem to consider before taking the plunge to the pistol cartridge. I also set my wrecks aside from 7 mm TCU conversion for further evaluation.

    I don’t get my CZ52 out as much as I might since they are great brass losers but a Wolf extra recoil spring did reduce “the launch” a great amount.

    I am pretty fond of my revolvers and their “no launch” attribute.

    Best regards

    Three44s

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Mauser 98K's Avatar
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    Yea they launch brass into orbit.. Some might even go intersteller for all I know, being I could not even find some I fired with metal detector.

    But I own neither a .223 or 300Blk, so really don't have any other use for it.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Grmps's Avatar
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    Another option, I do mine similar to this.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlAFF79us8U

  7. #7
    Boolit Mold
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    Don't forget you can also make .221 fireball from .223.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy


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    Grmps - that's slick as owl snot buddy! One question though. When you use the Lee trimmer thingie - what is it bottoming out on? Is it bottoming out on the lead slug you have in the chuck?
    So many guns, so little time
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  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy Mauser 98K's Avatar
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    id like to take a pair of caliper to the neck of his brass the way he is reaming the neck, but it looks effective.

    this video is a test of that same round i loaded up last night and fired into a bucket of wet paper today using my 90gr JSP i swage.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8adsWGOS9qc

    the round went in and after about 1.5-2 inches the cavity in the paper started opening up showing that the energy was being transferred and hydrostatic forces was rising. the larger hole was around an inch in diameter and went in for around 4 inches further b4 the hole started to get smaller again, the bullet shed the jacket during this time. the bullet core went an additional 3 inches after the jacket was shed and tumbled sideways and came to rest at a depth of 8 inches.. expansion of the core was 1.3X larger than the unfired bullet.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    The Wolf spring actually helps a lot on stacking the brass a lot closer to your feet.

    For J words, I like the .308 Hornady 90 gr JHP XTP. Used 2400 for a brisk load and HS-6 for a medium load which also brought the brass pile to just to my right side in a neat heap!

    I used a Wilson trimmer and their .308” inside neck reamer to allow an unimpeded bulls release.

    Three44s

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Grmps's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mac60 View Post
    Grmps - that's slick as owl snot buddy! One question though. When you use the Lee trimmer thingie - what is it bottoming out on? Is it bottoming out on the lead slug you have in the chuck?
    I use the worlds cheapest trimmer instead of the lee trimmer (it's easy to convert the cheapest trimmer from 300BO to 7.62x25. I'm guessing it bottoms out on the boolit, If I had gone that way I would have cut a piece of metal dowel. Instead of 2 drill bits I bought a "N" ream.

    I just got done putting an SSR between the foot pedal and the drill seeing I was getting too much of a current drop through the foot pedal (I should have bought a better foot peddal

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy Mauser 98K's Avatar
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    oh. b4 i forget about it. a bit of info that is not well known for those who want to reform their .223 brass into 7.62x25 brass.. if you find that the gun has trouble going all the way to battery, even though the neck of the case is not jamming up due to too thick at the neck, you might need to shave the shell holder or the die so that you can push the shoulder back a little more.. being the shell holder is the cheapest part, it might be the best candidate.

    the way to tell if it is the case neck or the length of the shoulder is too long is to take the barrel out and to drop a round in the chamber. if the round fits freely into the chamber and can be pulled out easily then most likely the shoulder is too long and is keeping the slide from going far enough forward to allow the roller lock system to work freely.. a pair of calipers and comparing the shoulder position with a factory case that will chamber and allow the slide to go to battery easily will confirm if this is the case. but being the system head spaces on the shoulder, this can be a problem at times if your pistol has a tight chamber. it don't take much, just a thousandths or two till the shoulder can be pushed far enough back during forming so that the slide can go far enough forward to allow the rollers to work freely..

    just a little heads up information that is not widely known and comes from experience.
    Last edited by Mauser 98K; 05-31-2018 at 05:22 AM.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy


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    Quote Originally Posted by Grmps View Post
    I use the worlds cheapest trimmer instead of the lee trimmer (it's easy to convert the cheapest trimmer from 300BO to 7.62x25. I'm guessing it bottoms out on the boolit, If I had gone that way I would have cut a piece of metal dowel. Instead of 2 drill bits I bought a "N" ream.

    I just got done putting an SSR between the foot pedal and the drill seeing I was getting too much of a current drop through the foot pedal (I should have bought a better foot peddal
    Where there's a will there's a way. That's good stuff there, love it!
    So many guns, so little time
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  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy Mauser 98K's Avatar
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    i ground some high speed today to convert the 38spl. so far it works well. and you are correct, there is no need to neck ream them after trimming.
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    thanks for the heads up GRUMPA...

  15. #15
    In Remembrance

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser 98K View Post
    i ground some high speed today to convert the 38spl. so far it works well. and you are correct, there is no need to neck ream them after trimming.
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    thanks for the heads up GRUMPA...
    Your welcome.... I try (through trial and error, mostly error) to do things that don't require special tools. Unless a person does a bazillion of the 223 conversion, reamers cost and are specialized to some degree.

    NOW...... Make 1 from 223 and weigh all 3 (factory, 223, 38Spl separately) and notice which of the 2 conversions closely match the factory case.
    Click to see what I'm doing and have available, this takes you to the VS (Vendor Sponsor) section of the site. Currently..25Rem,30Rem, 32Rem, 35Rem, 257Roberts, 358Win, 338Fed, 357 Herrett, 30 Herrett, 401 Winchester, 300Sav, 221 Fireball, 260Rem, 222Rem, 250 Savage, 8mm Mauser (AKA 8x57), 25-20WCF

    Annealing Services

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...php?117-Grumpa






  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy Mauser 98K's Avatar
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    yea the .223 is thicker as it is meant for higher pressures, so it will automatically weigh more than the factory 7.62x25 and the 38spl. but i make my own reamers so cost is not really a big problem for me.

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser 98K View Post
    this is sort of a tutorial on how i currently make 7.62x25 brass for my CZ-52 from used .223 brass. this is the fastest way i know how to make it right now. the only problem is that to make it fast you must invest in some tools, as doing it all by hand takes a while and is a PITA.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFKOMObl6KM
    Curious as to why the carbide turning and facing tool in the lathe instead of a carbide parting tool?? I use both.
    Nice quick change chuck you were using, by the way. Is that a takeoff from an electric drill?

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy Mauser 98K's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fast ronnie View Post
    Curious as to why the carbide turning and facing tool in the lathe instead of a carbide parting tool?? I use both.
    Nice quick change chuck you were using, by the way. Is that a takeoff from an electric drill?
    i gotta dig up a smaller parting tool or grind one myself. the smallest one i got now is 1/8in wide.. but that is a replacement chuck for an electric hand drill that has an adjustable stop that i use in my case trimmer for making jackets uniform.

  19. #19
    Boolit Buddy Mauser 98K's Avatar
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    ground a piece of HSS to a 1/16in wide parting tool. it is faster, about 5-8 seconds faster per piece.

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