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Thread: Permanent case identification for reformed cases

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Permanent case identification for reformed cases

    I only reform cases for a 6mm Rem AI and 20 Practical. The new AI cases are fairly easy to ID from the original 6MM Rem with a quick look, but the 20 Practical are much harder to tell from the original 223 Rem/5.56 rounds, particularly when both have red poly tips or are empty. Does anyone have a decent way to permanently, or at least a very durable means, to ID the reformed cases as something different that the head-stamp indicates? If so, I would love to hear what you do.

    Thanks

    remy3424
    Take a kid to the range, you'll both be glad you did.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master mattw's Avatar
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    I use a decent grade fingernail polish to id my 45acp cases. Just a swipe on the head, allow it to dry and fire away. It will last for years down in the headstamp.

  3. #3
    When I convert cases I use military brass when possible so there isn't the wrong marking on them.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy poppy42's Avatar
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    I second the nail Polish. It’s how I mark my 9x18 (Makarov) cases that I make from 9x19. A little touch on the head stamp does it. If it where is it off just touch it up again .
    Long, Wide, Deep, and Without Hesitation!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master TNsailorman's Avatar
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    You can also get the Birchwood Casey case Black that will blacken brass and you tell by he blackened base or the whole case for that matter. .

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Dykem Steel Blue on the case head works well.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Those are good ideas,I am sure any of these will work better than a sharpie....which doesn't work. I will start with the fingernail polish, I should be able to find a stray bottle or 2 around the house. Thanks to all.
    Take a kid to the range, you'll both be glad you did.

  8. #8
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    Omega's Avatar
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    You could always use a cannelure tool to mark the case, so it's pretty much permanent. I've seen some blank mil brass marked that way.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I usually put loaded rounds nose down in box and paint primmer with nail polish and wipe it which leaves a coloured ring around primer, pick a colour that is not same as used on factory rounds, one could use nickel cases for standard and brass for improved. Regards Stephen

  10. #10
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    or if you use SS pins to tumble your brass just add 1 steel case and run a little longer .. You will have light pink brass cases
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  11. #11
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    +1! on Dykem Steel Blue on the case head,as posted before me -- it does in fact work well, and a teeny-tiny amount seems to last forever..
    geo.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have cut the stamping off of the case heads by using a shallow radius cutter in my lathe. You won't make a mistake with these converted cases. Cut just enough to remove the caliber stamps. The case head looks like a bulls eye with the bands between the primer pocket and also on the outside of the case. The toolman.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have used a veeblock square an very sharp scribe or knife point to cut a X across the head to identify cases. an exacto knife with the back of the blade stoned to a sharp edge drawn backwards across case several times cuts a nice clean line turn 90* and repeat. M853 7.62 military ammo had a straight knurl cut around case body to identify it. Here a straight fine knurl roll of the proper size and width could replace the cutter in a pipe cutter and be used to mark cases. A stop for the case head to set against and snug down give a couple turns and you have the mark

  14. #14
    Boolit Master RogerDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post
    When I convert cases I use military brass when possible so there isn't the wrong marking on them.
    This is what I do also. Head stamp has armory and year no caliber. Marking blue or nail polish both have staying power. I have seen brass with a line scribed around the head stamp as a concentric circle to the primer. Effectively drawing a line though the caliber. I assume this is lathe or maybe done on a trimmer? I guess it would depend on how many I had to do and how frequently I needed that brass as to how much I would put into marking it. A single labeled box of 20 vs. 250 all at once.
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  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have used a Wilson case trimmer to clean up some rims on a case for a project and it did good. ( only removed a few thousandths). Simple cutter could be made to cut the circle type cut. or one of the case holders and a long pin to support in case head in the case. And an x stamp turned to fit the cutter sleeve a quick tap and you have a x on the head you might have to clean up thePP edge though. A piloted forester bit in drill press of the right dia would also cut a ring thru the original stampings. Here the bit would need to be modified with a small brass pilot to fit freely in the primer pocket and soldered to the bit.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master dnepr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JMtoolman View Post
    I have cut the stamping off of the case heads by using a shallow radius cutter in my lathe. You won't make a mistake with these converted cases. Cut just enough to remove the caliber stamps. The case head looks like a bulls eye with the bands between the primer pocket and also on the outside of the case. The toolman.
    I have also used this method , very good method in my opinion as long as you have a lathe

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Easiest I think is segregation of headstamps, either military or a particular commercial you don't use for regular loading. That blue ring on federal stays a good long while though.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master Moleman-'s Avatar
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    All my 6x45 cases are nickle plated. Any 223 nickle plated cases get run through the 6x45 die so I can tell at a glance if it's a 223 or 6x45.
    350 Legend, imitation is the highest form of flattery. Aww, Thanks Winchester!

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    A lathe turned line to delete the headstamp:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Either that or a notch in the rim:
    Click image for larger version. 

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  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    A lot of great ideas here! With the 20PC, thinking Casey, blue or polish, might have close to 500 pieces. Might look closer at the Birchwood Casey black. If it is a chemical reaction, I could maybe dip the bottom half inch or so, then could ID from base or the body and a chemical reaction would be the least dimensional change. Thanks to everyone again for all the input.
    Take a kid to the range, you'll both be glad you did.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check