Lyman Foster slug test part 1

[longbow]

I've tried the "stay on" paper patching but it gets shredded in the bore so has a rough uneven surface. For me it didn't work. Better to shed the patch I think but smoothbore shotguns are not BP paper patch rifles so there is no rifling cutting patches and "confetti" at the muzzle. I think the patching has to come off cleanly much like a sabot. The other issue is that the patch has to survive rubbing on a rough hull, opening a crimp and the jump through the forcing cone.

Personally I think a full bore slug or a wad slug like the Lyman sabot slug and the Lee Drive Key slugs are the way to go. In the end the fit is an issue. That's why I decided to size down my Lee Drive Key slugs so I could then patch back up to snug fit for a specific bore diameter. So far the sized paper patched Lee slugs seem to be doing reasonably well but they need more testing.

Longbow

[dsh1106]

Scott: I just put the mic to a few wads I have on hand and measured up the petal about 3/8th of an inch. My 12S3s are the Downrange substitute and measure .024 as does the WAA12 (white) The Western WT12 is .023 the WAA12114 (yellow) is .022 and the Claybuster 1100-12 (pink) is .021. You're almost there Maybe just a different wad. Good luck. Gp PS Got the 662 RB mould in. If you need a few let me know. Also an approx. BHN you need.

I guess I must have lost my mind yesterday, trying to push the slug/wad combo through a rifled barrel????

I'll give it a try today using my smooth bore.

UPDATE - Using the same components and these push through my cylinderbore barrel at just shy of 10# pressure.

Scott

[SuperBlazingSabots]

Once you wrap it tightly and tuck the overhanging 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch into the base cavity, it will stay there till it leaves the muzzle and then it will unwrap. I like to keep things simple, paper patching like this where the slug locks-in like this:

The length of the paper will determine the OD of the slug so measure it and see how many wraps you need.

The Lyman foster slug measured .705 too big for a shot cup and too small for a snug fit.
We all gave $100 for a mold with handles untill Lee showed up, they were smarter and gave service at 1/5 the cost.





The base cavity pins from Lee can be had for $1.5 each alter the pins and experiment ! !


Ajay Madan
Super Blazing Sabots

[gpidaho]

Nope Ajay, nothing so elaborate. That patch looks like it might have a chance. I'd like to post a picture once in a while even just for a good laugh but sadly I'm pretty much a computer "Tard" I just used a very small dab of super glue, did two tight wraps and glued the ends together then filled the HB with hot glue. Only made a couple and they are loaded. Not much lost. Will move on to the next bright idea soon. Gp

[gpidaho]

Dang it Scott, you're goin' to shoot an eye out. LOL Sometimes I have to shake my head and go "What was I thinking" Gp

[Blood Trail]

I have an idea. I have heat shrink various thickness. This stuff is tough and some has an adhesive made in it that bonds with the material once heated. I’ll heat shrink a couple slugs and measure the OD.

[dsh1106]

I have an idea. I have heat shrink various thickness. This stuff is tough and some has an adhesive made in it that bonds with the material once heated. I’ll heat shrink a couple slugs and measure the OD.

Awesome idea, almost like the Teflon jackets they had on the 9mm ammo back in the mid 80's.

I bet you could size those up to fit any bore you wanted.

I know there is some heat shrink available that gets pretty hard afterward installation.
SIDE NOTE: This is the stuff we used on the military jets where two tubes would cross and needed to be protected from ware.

Scott

[Blood Trail]

I know there is some heat shrink available that gets pretty hard afterward installation.
SIDE NOTE: This is the stuff we used on the military jets where two tubes would cross and needed to be protected from ware.

Scott

Exactly what this is.


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[Blood Trail]

Measures .730 and .735


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[dsh1106]

I would hope this helps the accuracy, are you planning on using a nylon ball in the back, or are you just filling it with caulk/wood putty/hot glue? or just a hard card ?
Can't wait for part two video using these !!!!

Scott

[a danl]

i also use lyman foster mold slugs and i expand them to fit the bore dia. fill with beeswax and the next wad i lube with melted borebutter witch they will soak up like a sponge . you will not get leading. works very well

[a danl]

i use a section of an old 12ga barrel witch is bore dia. and i compress them into the bbl and they come out bore dia. not hard to do accuracy greatly improved

[Bob9863]

I like that wrap job, I have been thinking about trying that with my Lee slugs do I can shoot them without a shot cup.

[SuperBlazingSabots]

Hello Bob, if your barrel is a smooth bore first check by pushing it back wards from the muzzle to check for a fiction fit for accuracy and if you have a choked barrel then too check for fiction fit at the muzzle where the choke constriction is. It should require 6 to 10 lbs pressure to push it through.
Always use a good OP wad with longer skirts for far better obturation.

I personally like the Powder Cup OP wad but then it has double cup shape and needs to be filled up:


Best regards,
Ajay K. Madan
Super Blazing Sabots

[W.R.Buchanan]

3M is the source for the good Heat Shrink tube. There is 2:1 shrink and 3:1 shrink. Typically the 3:1 has the glue in it. I use the stuff alot.

Randy

[longbow]

Well if that heat shrink tube gets the diameter of the Lyman Foster up to bore diameter then it may be worth getting my old mould out and trying it. Before I ever cast with that mould again though I will be polishing the core pin. It looks smooth but there is little taper to it and it sticks badly, always has. It is a pain to cast with.

Paper patching with thick paper helped but I still got fliers. My assumption was that the patch was getting torn by rough hull interior, crimp or in the forcing cone ~ jumping the gap can't be good for a paper patch. It could also have been poor patch release from slug too. The patch isn't going to get shredded the way a BP rifle patch does.

That heat shrink tubing is a great idea if it stays on and stays intact. Even if the Lyman Foster was usable that way I'd still thicken the nose and skirt some.

Hah! I didn't notice before but Ajay has already tried those plastic gas seals with the hole in the middle. When I saw those I immediately thought Brenneke! Ajay obviously thought the same thing and beat me to it some years ago it seems. Oh well.

Longbow

[Blood Trail]

Well if that heat shrink tube gets the diameter of the Lyman Foster up to bore diameter then it may be worth getting my old mould out and trying it. Before I ever cast with that mould again though I will be polishing the core pin. It looks smooth but there is little taper to it and it sticks badly, always has. It is a pain to cast with.

Paper patching with thick paper helped but I still got fliers. My assumption was that the patch was getting torn by rough hull interior, crimp or in the forcing cone ~ jumping the gap can't be good for a paper patch. It could also have been poor patch release from slug too. The patch isn't going to get shredded the way a BP rifle patch does.

That heat shrink tubing is a great idea if it stays on and stays intact. Even if the Lyman Foster was usable that way I'd still thicken the nose and skirt some.

Hah! I didn't notice before but Ajay has already tried those plastic gas seals with the hole in the middle. When I saw those I immediately thought Brenneke! Ajay obviously thought the same thing and beat me to it some years ago it seems. Oh well.

Longbow

I use those gas seals with the hole in it (Me and Uncle D call them doughnut wads) to center my rb’s in the mold.


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[CANUCK]

I have already inquired at my local machine shop about milling this mold out to my bore diameter (about .729" - .730") and they said it was easy to do.
Does anyone foresee any issues and what would be the weight increase?

[W.R.Buchanan]

If you guys fit your slugs directly to the bore dia do understand they will have to be lubed or they will lead the barrel like crazy. The thing about running these in wads is the wad acts as the lube. You could also powder coat them like we do for the rest of our Cast Boolits.

I just saw a Lyman Slug Swaging Tool for sale on Ebay for swaging the lands onto Lyman Foster Slugs The guy was proud of this artifact and wanted $200 for it, which I think is ambitious, but it looked to be in perfect shape.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lyman-12-ga...l/173613174727

Does Lyman still make this tool? Has anyone looked?

Randy

[Cap'n Morgan]

If you guys fit your slugs directly to the bore dia do understand they will have to be lubed or they will lead the barrel like crazy. The thing about running these in wads is the wad acts as the lube. You could also powder coat them like we do for the rest of our Cast Boolits.

I never used any kind of lube on my slugs since I never had any problems with leading. All my slugs have been about .728 in diameter. Even with the low pressure in shotguns I think gas cutting is causing leading if the slug is not tight in the bore. I also think my injection molded wads - also oversize - helps keeping the bore free of lead and a smooth bore is no doubt less prone to leading compared to a rifled bore.

Now, about slugs and bore fit: I have just taken a Polish made slug shell apart; The slug is a rifled hollowbase with helical fins, much like the Brenneke, but the wad is not attached to the slug. The slug is swaged from what seems to be pure lead. Total weight of wad and slug is 1-1/8 ounce and the diameter is large! .736" Most European bores are between .720 and .724 so quite a bit of swaging going on here... Pics to follow.