Has anyone converted a Lyman trimmer

[gcollins]

Okay Fella's,
I am going to start this off right this time! I am asking if anyone has motorized there Lyman Universal case trimmer, I asking this because I am looking for ADVICE on how they did it? I am not trying to cut anyone out of any money for there design ect. the last time I ask how to power my Dillon some folks got upset for nothing:
To those with a Lyman Uni. trimmer have you powered it other than buying the motorized kit from Lyman??Midway has the new shaft to be used if powered up, it is $20.00 plus the ride, as bad as I hate to, I believe I will grind the spot weld that holds the handle on and then put a electric drill on the end, I really would like to think of a better way???????? Something that you can leave running with a in and out lever to apply pressure and change out case's. Anyone done this?
I would be very great full for any info.
No I have not got my Dillon auto ed
Greg

[Mk42gunner]

I used the Lyman adapter kit. Looking at my manual shaft, it would be fairly easy to cut the crank handle off and grind it down for a 3/8 or 1/4 inch drill to power it.

The Lyman shaft has a hex shape for the drill chuck to attach, you could also use a socket to drive it, I suppose. The new shaft comes with a new cutter head, too.

After using a drill to power mine, I am never going to use the hand crank again.

Call me crazy, but I don't want to be messing around with my bare fingers near a spinning cutter. I know the chance of getting into it is slim, but I relly don't want to be known as Stubby.

I do have a Forster trimmer that I can unscrew the handle and use a dril on, but I only have one pilot for it. I found my Lyman on sale for about what the pilots for the forster would have cost.

Robert

[beagle]

I have a really old one and as I recall, there were two setscrews holding the handle on to the shaft. After removal, the handle slipped off and my drill could be attached.

I may have an older unit though. I know I have made a bunch of .458 X 2" cases by cutting down .300 Win Mags and 7mm Mags that had been lopped off with a tubing cutter and the chips really flew./beagle

[contender1]

My Lyman was a handcrank type,,, UNTIL I bought the Lyman power adaptor. I'll NEVER use the hand crank again. ANd I feel it was money well spent.

[milprileb]

I got the power shaft which is easy to install. I wanted to keep the handle crank
shaft for times I am doing some real close trimming chores.

I find the variances of cuts using power shaft to be unsat. COAL is never consistent.
Its a bit better hand cranking the shaft but still its not very precise.

Some will say thats not an issue if its above min. trim lenght and below max lenght
and that may be but the fact of the matter is..... I expect more precision and consistency
and the Lyman unit does not do it. I am not a happy customer !

Then the tedious and slow Lee trimmer cuts every case precisely to same lenght.

I don't know why there is not a lath type trimmer that uses the STOP Guide system of
spindles like on the Lee unit. Seems pretty effective and simple to me.

[Keith Sacane]

Among my many hobbies, I also like archery, and I saw a plan the other day to make a homemade arrow crester with a sewing machine motor, including the pedal. Do you think it might be possible to convert a sewing machine motor with a pedal? It might speed up the process. The motors can usually be found with pedals fairly cheaply.

[jmorris]

If the handle is right hand threaded you could do the samething I did and adapt a power window motor to it.

[dragonrider]

I use a cordless drill. Pull the handle off the trimmer and chuck he drill on the shaft.

Jmorris, a very clever idea.

[ronbo]

I have the Lyman trimmer that comes already motorized. Bought it on clearance for $60 quite a few years ago at Gander Mtn.

[Roger Ronas]

Hello jmorris,
That looks like a Forster trimmer like mine. So my questions are:
1. Do you have a link to a window motor that works, thread wise or did you build an adapter between motor and trimmer?
2. I assume 12vdc power, did you use a battery or an adapter (wall wart transformer) to power motor.
3. Switch?

Thanks
Roger

If the handle is right hand threaded you could do the samething I did and adapt a power window motor to it.

[high standard 40]

For those with a Forster trimmer, they catalog an adapter that screws onto the shaft in the place of the crank handle and you can then use a cordless drill on it. Using this adapter prevents damage to the treads by chucking the drill directly on the shaft threads.

I have one of the adapters for my Forster trimmer and it sure comes in handy when forming 30 Herrett brass.

[milprileb]

To beat a dead horse further with a 2x4: I decided to patiently take my Lyman trimmer and hand crank trim brass after I carefully got it adjusted to trim brass to correct lenght. Then, I did 20 cases and the variances of lenghts was not consistent. I was very careful to monitor feel and sound of trimmer as it did the trimming.

The manner of the shaft locking to hold a consistent cut lenght is impossible IMHO with the Lyman. Glad I own two as I thought the chuck holder was a jewel and it would be ideal for the boys bench and mine. Now we own two paper weights.

The variances with power shaft installed are even worse.

My nose is so out of joint on this !

[jmorris]

Hello jmorris,

That looks like a Forster trimmer like mine. So my questions are:

1. Do you have a link to a window motor that works, thread wise or did you build an adapter between motor and trimmer?

2. I assume 12vdc power, did you use a battery or an adapter (wall wart transformer) to power motor.

3. Switch?

Any gear style window motor would be fine, a lot of the newer cable type motors don't have metal you can tacweld to (all plastic). I threaded the steel adaptor for the shaft and so it would slip over the motor shaft and run true.

I have used it both with a deer feeder batt and an auto "jump box", just hook it up and go.

[Wally]

To beat a dead horse further with a 2x4: I decided to patiently take my Lyman trimmer and hand crank trim brass after I carefully got it adjusted to trim brass to correct lenght. Then, I did 20 cases and the variances of lenghts was not consistent. I was very careful to monitor feel and sound of trimmer as it did the trimming.

The manner of the shaft locking to hold a consistent cut lenght is impossible IMHO with the Lyman. Glad I own two as I thought the chuck holder was a jewel and it would be ideal for the boys bench and mine. Now we own two paper weights.

The variances with power shaft installed are even worse.

My nose is so out of joint on this !

I have had similiar experiences. I now use a Lee universal chuck and their trimmer/pilot with the cutter on their hardwood "ball" handle...I get consistently trimmed cases and one can use a chamfer tool with it.

[woody1]

I've posted a photo of my motorized RCBS case trimmer several times, usually somewhat tongue-in-cheek. However it DOES work and I don't see why a similar setup wouldn't work for the Lyman. I have a much larger motor than necessary but I had it and the pulleys. I have a sewing machine foot feed to start and stop the motor. Take a good look at it and I think one can see how it's set up. The last post showing a photo is here:

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...trimmer&page=2

There's nothin' automatic about it. You still have to fit the brass in the collet and push the cutter by hand which also slightly tightens the pulley belt, touch the foot feed and you're done. There's a spinner handle on the outside of the drive pully that just spins in your hand as you're pushing the cutter into the case. If everything is lined up right, letting go of the drive shaft allows the pulley belt to align with the motor pulley which withdraws the cutter from the brass and lets you begin taking the case out before the motor stops turning. Like I said, it's a little like putting a big block Chevy in a beetle, but it does take the metal off.

Regards, Woody

[gcollins]

Woody! That is a killer case trimmer!!
G

[woody1]

Yeah, I put it together when I had some serious trimming to do. I think I was building 308's out of 30-06 brass. Regards, Woody

[zomby woof]

I removed the crank handle tied a drill to an old slider rail.

[Mk42gunner]

I like your slider rail; it beats letting the drill hang off the end of the shaft like I am doing now.

Robert

[gcollins]

Zomby, That was exactly what I was going to do. But I also wanted to keep a shaft with a crank handle to do small jobs! I am thinking about removing my crank and taking the shaft over to the mill and put a flat on the end and then do the female part on the crank handle so I do do both. I bought a awesome OLD Redding case trimmer and if I can modify it to do my job with out destroying it. When I first looked at it I thought to myself how easy it would be to make a neck turning lathe out of it. As soon as I get it I will post a pic.
Later
Greg