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Thread: Lyman Great Plains Hunter .50 caliber questions

  1. #21
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    working on the breech plug isn't mandatory, it's just a good thing to do and it's good to understand why.

    you mentioned the GPH flint version, and usually a dry ball can be blown out by totally filling up the antechamber with 2f or 3f powder after removing the touch hole liner, screw back the liner, then prime and away she goes.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Yup, that's the way I've done in the past. Each time I get the message a little more. Make sure the ball didn't move too. The whole muzzleloader thing is about slowing down anyway. Pay attention and these things won't happen...as often maybe.

  3. #23
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    yeah, but ain't all this stuff fun?

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I certainly have to agree to that! Really like it!!

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newtire View Post
    Hi,
    Normally, I would go to the sites and look for myself but I already tried that and didn't get anywhere. Kind of surprised me as Midway has always been pretty good as well as Lyman about customer service. The online chat person at Midway told me to go ask Lyman and the customer service link to Midway was broken. The customer service link to Lyman was also frozen/broken.

    Was trying to find out if, in fact the stock was real walnut like it said, as the picture sure looked like a piece of balsa wood stained to look like walnut.

    I also wondered how these rifles balanced out. I picked up a .54 to hold in my hands and I liked the light weight of it but wondered if the .50 was that much heavier due to the hole size of the caliber (increased amount of metal left on the gun). they have a pretty good deal on a flinchlock that I have my eye on.

    As usual, any help is appreciated.

    Thanks,
    Calvin
    Yo Newtire.
    About how the .50 versus the .54 handle...
    The .54 seems perfect to me.
    The .50 is not much different but The .54 is better.
    The .40 is at the limits of being too nose heavy.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I agree that the .54 is the choice for round ball but i am thinking the .50 might do well with conical balls so got the .50 barrel with the fast twist for the conicals. When I see my way clear, I might pick up a .54 for the round ball shooting. We'll see how it goes. I have another fast twist .50 that shoots the conicals great. It is a bit brutal on the arm though-a Mowrey rifle. I think they sent it out and had the butt plate sharpened before they sold it to me.

  7. #27
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    The Lyman buttplate will cut you! I rounded mine off a bit and I use a shoulder pad (Past).

    Sent from my SM-P580 using Tapatalk

  8. #28
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    i think the .50 is better for conicals.

    ALL crescent butt stocks will be a recoil/hurt issue when stout loads are used. this is why my smoothbore fowler and BPCR guns have flat shotgun butt stocks.

  9. #29
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    My GPH 1-32 .50 shoots RB wonderfully.many 1.5" and under groups at 50 yards.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbashooter View Post
    My GPH 1-32 .50 shoots RB wonderfully.many 1.5" and under groups at 50 yards.
    What kind of load are you using cbashooter?

  11. #31
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    I second that. Mine seems to prefer 30 or 40gn with round balls.

    I prefer 450gn PP bullets for longer range. 80gn Pyrodex Select for these. Accuracy is what my eyes can do that day. I have had 1.5" groups at 100yds but most days 2" is what my eyes can do.

    Sent from my SM-P580 using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check