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Thread: Knife Blade ??

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

    Johnch's Avatar
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    Knife Blade ??

    I was not sure where to put this post
    LOL so if it is in the wrong place feel free to move it

    I am bored
    Monday I get another set of Botox injections
    So I will go from 1 or 2 Migraines a DAY to 2 or 3 a week for 6 weeks and then they get more often

    So I figured I would like to make myself a .... well parts of a new hunting knife at least LOL

    I used a 95% done blade and made the scales ( Might be the right word for the handle ) and did the finish work
    But that was 20 years ago and I have no CLUE to where I can get a decent 90% to 100% ready blade these days

    I also am not sure what the good steels are any more
    Last one I made , I got a D2 blade
    But I was told 440 .... something is the way to go now ??


    Not looking for a big knife , I just want a blade that holds a edge
    Not expecting it to be free , but also not interested in a $100 blade that needs a ton of work either

    A simple 2 1/2" to 3" blade to cut rope , gut deer and all the other day to day jobs a knife dose

    So I am sure there are a number of members here that can point me in the right direction

    Thanks
    John
    Yea, thou I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil; for thou art with me; Thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me.
    And I carry a SIG

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    georgerkahn's Avatar
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    At a recent gun show, a seller has some (msrp $35.00) Kershaw knives for twenty dollars, and this has replaced my Buck, and before that Case, as my everyday carry (EDC) knife! Three features I've come to love are: An easily moved flip lever on it makes it a very easily operated ONE-HAND to open knife, with blade very safely staying locked; It comes with an outside clip to hook on your trouser pocket, insuring very easy reliable access to it; and, it has -- after over a month's quite regular use -- stayed remarkably sharp. I do not at all miss the required use of thumbnail in slot to open knives of that design. While it is not the exact model I bought, Amazon lists a similar for less than twenty-one dollars, I'm pasting link for your reference: https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Dro...pocket+kershaw
    BEST!
    geo

  3. #3
    Boolit Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCH

    Green River blanks.

    Run from 12$ up to 25$ depending on style and shape.

    I have 2, the 5" Hunter and a smaller one which I do not see offered.

    "These high carbon steel "Green River" blades are identical to the ones used by our forefathers. They have been made by Russell Harrington Cutlery since the early 1800s, and feature proven designs used as working knives for almost 200 years. They have a remarkable ability to hold their edge, and are stain resistant. They will serve you well."

    I have not used mine a lot, but I would agree with what they said above.
    They have proven designs that work, they hold an edge, and with a reasonably well built handle will serve you well.

    Mine look more like prison shanks than anything else.
    I wanted a strong slip resistant handle that would not rot.
    So I ended up heating a piece of PVC pipe, flattening it some in the vise, shoved the blank in until it stuck. After it cooled it was one unit, locked together. Did a cord wrap with bank line for that good solid grip.

    Works of art they are not. But they can be covered in blood and gore and rinse clean in seconds.
    Nothing to swell, warp, rot. It is steel, PVC, and tar coated Nylon cord.

    For the cost, you can buy a couple and practice on them. Then when you run across that perfect blade you will have experience, and be able to make a very good job of it. In the meantime the Green River blanks will serve.

    I have a lot of fairly inexpensive knives. The Green Rivers are right up at the top of my list.
    I actually value them higher than the Mora's because of their thicker steel, and edge holding.

    That is my opinon, tis free, and worth what you paid for it. If it is useful, awesome.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Smokey mountain knife works. Store is in Severville, Tn. Google for web site. Store is an exercise in TMI. We go by before Christmas, Lodge Cast Iron store next door.
    If you don't find something at SMKW you ain't looking.
    CF
    Vote Independent, vote Republican, vote Democratic, just donít vote Incumbent!
    I believe in the Bible, Freedom, the Constitution, the Bill of Rights and personal responsibility. My government believes I am narrow minded, intolerant and dangerous.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
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    Why not make your own? I started making knives with my uncle about 15 years ago. It's easy to do with simple tools, and high carbon steel can be heat treated with a set of torches and oil. I got started with a bench grinder, files and some sandpaper. I made some decent knives. Since then I gotten some better tools.....

    Get steel from new jersey steel baron. Handles can be made from about anything.

    Chknives.com


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Boolit Master bdicki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GhostHawk View Post
    http://www.crazycrow.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCH

    Green River blanks.

    Run from 12$ up to 25$ depending on style and shape.

    I have 2, the 5" Hunter and a smaller one which I do not see offered.

    "These high carbon steel "Green River" blades are identical to the ones used by our forefathers. They have been made by Russell Harrington Cutlery since the early 1800s, and feature proven designs used as working knives for almost 200 years. They have a remarkable ability to hold their edge, and are stain resistant. They will serve you well."

    I have not used mine a lot, but I would agree with what they said above.
    They have proven designs that work, they hold an edge, and with a reasonably well built handle will serve you well.

    Mine look more like prison shanks than anything else.
    I wanted a strong slip resistant handle that would not rot.
    So I ended up heating a piece of PVC pipe, flattening it some in the vise, shoved the blank in until it stuck. After it cooled it was one unit, locked together. Did a cord wrap with bank line for that good solid grip.

    Works of art they are not. But they can be covered in blood and gore and rinse clean in seconds.
    Nothing to swell, warp, rot. It is steel, PVC, and tar coated Nylon cord.

    For the cost, you can buy a couple and practice on them. Then when you run across that perfect blade you will have experience, and be able to make a very good job of it. In the meantime the Green River blanks will serve.

    I have a lot of fairly inexpensive knives. The Green Rivers are right up at the top of my list.
    I actually value them higher than the Mora's because of their thicker steel, and edge holding.

    That is my opinon, tis free, and worth what you paid for it. If it is useful, awesome.
    Dang, now I have a few new projects. Some of the Green River blades are on sale.
    Last edited by bdicki; 05-13-2018 at 08:54 AM.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I like Jantz Knifemaking Supply:

    http://www.knifemaking.com/

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Jul 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatume View Post
    I like Jantz Knifemaking Supply:

    http://www.knifemaking.com/
    I can't stop looking.

  9. #9
    Yes, I approve of Jantz Supplies, whom I found very good on overseas orders. You will probably find some of the same products cheaper on eBay, and a very wide selection of woods etc. with a search for "knifemaking scales".

    I have found O1 steel very good and easy to work, with a low hardening temperature which means minimum distortion in hardening. The air hardening steels also avoid one of the trickiest operations for the amateur, although they require a little higher temperature than most hardening, and some protection or subsequent refinishing due to tendency to scale.

    You should be able to find detailed information online for the heat treatments of the various steels. Getting a longish blade evenly to the right temperature for hardening is difficult, and you should build a kind of slot in a nest of some kind of non-spalling brick. Proper firebricks will be expensive if you don't plan on doing it again. A belt sanding machine, which you can use for a lot of other things, is about the most cost-effective way you can spend money, and even a carpenter's hand-held one, held upside down in a vice, is a lot better than no belt sander.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I've made a few knives from RR spikes, files and mechanical hacksaw blades. I have a 14" circular saw blade I will cut blanks out of when I get someone with a plasma cutter.




  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    If you stick with a known steel you will get better results. Free is free, but a known steel will give expected results.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

    Johnch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatume View Post
    I like Jantz Knifemaking Supply:

    http://www.knifemaking.com/
    THANK YOU !!!!
    I did a 30 second look and saw 2 that I liked
    So I will order at least 1 of each and see how my skill is

    John
    Yea, thou I walk through the valley of the shadow of death, I will fear no evil; for thou art with me; Thy rod and thy staff, they comfort me.
    And I carry a SIG

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


    tomme boy's Avatar
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    I like Helle blanks

  14. #14
    Moderator Emeritus


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    Getting a good sheath is becoming more difficult as well. Tandy leather has dried up and blown away and finding thick enough leather to work with is a tough hunt. Hit the thrift stores and look for lightly used boots.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Snow ninja's Avatar
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    I like Texas Knifemakers Supply myself. Give it a look. I've had good luck with their cryo blades.

    https://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php
    Do the best you can, with what you've got, where you're at. -Theodore Roosevelt

  16. #16
    PAPERPATCH MASTER


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    There is a community of Amish about 20 miles from me. Everytime that I finished a from scratch knife I would visit a leather workers shop. I would leave the knife with him after he and I worked out on paper what sort of sheath I wanted. He made the sheaths from heavy leather with brass rivets at weak points and stitched with 2 rows of heavy thread. He had a generator for powering his 2 industrial electric sewing machines. Black, red or tan were the only colors. Most he charged me for a custom sheath was $15 and he had it done in a week.Robert

  17. #17
    Boolit Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    Reworked sheath a bit this afternoon.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Main part is just a thin piece of black Kydex, heated with heat gun, I use a couple of towels to pad it and just sit on it. If it does not come out right the first time just reheat and adjust it. I used 5 grommits to hold it together. I had issues with cap rivets being very sensitive to material thickness.
    The gromits are easy.

    Belt loop is just a nice piece of leather.
    I had it in a piece of suede before, with a lousy stitching job, stitch's showing, etc.
    The copper was just a kind of add on as a fairly easy way to really snug up the black bank line.

    Came out with a nice lighting bolt effect. So the blade earned a name today, black lighting.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Original cord wrap stopped at the sheath, used black tape to hold it. Looked like ****. I redid it with a full cord wrap then flared the sheath a bit to accommodate the extra material. Makes a nice snug fit with quick release.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  18. #18
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I've never bought anything from them, but Ive been looking at Jantz blades myself.

  19. #19
    Moderator Emeritus

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    I believe the finest cutting blades you can get to start your knife making career, are the Mora and related type blades, and you can get them at Ragweed Forge. Just enter "ragweed forge" into a Google search and it ought to take you right there. But bookmark it. They have both finished knives, and some really good blades. I'm a big fan of these knives and blades, and have a small one for a "patch knife" and other uses where a short blade comes in handy. Just haven't put a handle on it yet. You can get sheet brass and aluminum from bldg. supplies for hilts and guards, if you want them. I need to go out and cut an old antler for a handle for that neat lil' Scandi blade I've got, but then, I'd just order another that I don't have and ..... it seems these things never end, doesn't it? But if I ever need a knife, I have one for just about any purpose! It's nice when addictions come with benefits, isn't it?

  20. #20
    Boolit Master knifemaker's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	220416Sounds like you want to use a blade that is already finished and heat treated. You just finish by attaching and shaping the handle scales. I would recommend using Jantz knife supply for your blade. They have many options and reasonable prices. If you want a stainless steel blade, look at the 440C blades or AUS-8 for a steel that will hold a good edge and be reasonable in price. D-2 is another good one. I make my own knives using S30V steel billets, but that steel is very expensive.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check