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Thread: Just made my first caldron

  1. #1
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Just made my first caldron

    First off...unless you've done the research on the proper way to do it...DON'T. I will NOT be responsible for your actions. If you decide to do this....YOU do so at YOUR own risk.

    I finally made my first cauldron from a propane tank. It took about 2 weeks from start to finish. I had a tank that had a defective over-pressure release valve on it. I got the pressure down by opening up the tank and letting it purge off some of the pressure. I then put it back on the grill and used it up. That was 3 other tanks ago so its been sitting open for about a year.

    OK...now for the two week part. I removed the top valve safety shield with a grinder (valve closed obviously)....then proceeded to remove the brass filler valve assembly with a 3 lb hammer....hitting on the CCW side until it unscrewed by hand.

    Now...you WILL still smell gas since there is residual left in the tank and it is still VERY combustible....I turned the tank upside down and left it sit overnight (on the safety shield remove earlier) Then filled with water and let it sit for 3 days.....drained....upside down overnight....filled with water and let sit for 3 days....I did this 4 times. The smell of gas was gone by this time. I then took a torch and passed it over the valve hole to verify no more gas and there was no flame.

    Now I let the cutting commence. Using a diamond wheel on my 4 1/2" grinder it took 10 minutes to cut the tank just above the weld line. Then take a grinding stone and smooth out the fresh cut removing any/all sharp edges.

    TADA....first class cauldron....and it didn't cost me anything since I had a defective tank (valve) to start with and I wasn't going to refill it.

    OK...let the flaming begin...I know you want to....but that's ok...I did the research first before starting this project...I wasn't stupid enough to just jump right in after pulling the valve.....PATIENCE....PATIENCE....PATIENCE.

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Retumbo's Avatar
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    Errr....water displaces gas, fill, empty...should take you no less than 20 minutes.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy



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    Thanks Retumbo I was just planning on cutting one of these apart, great advice.
    "Yes or no will almost always suffice as the answer"

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    local propane supplier changes the valve for 10 bucks, upgraded several bottles to the new valve(they no longer fill the old style) cheeper than buying a new tank.

  5. #5
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    I was almost as cautious as you were except used the water only twice. Nice job. I used a Sawzall on mine, cut really easy. My local landscape/hardware place refilled propane tanks. Can go there and ask for ones that don't have the newer refill valve - got two from them for free as they have to pay to dispose of them. Good luck!

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Thanks for the cautionary note.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I'm pretty much the worlds biggest coward about things that can produce loud noise and bright flashes of light. The result of that is that my cleaning procedure before I cut on a tank is probably waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay overkill. So fan no bright lights/loud noises when I cut a tank so it does work.

    The first tank I got from a scrapyard, they removed the valve for me. After seeing what the valve wrench looked like I created one of my own.

    I had a tank that was almost full but the valve had seized closed. Propane place that is near me said nothing to do other than bleed the gas off & replace the valve. I asked about just what that involved and what it amounts to is taking the tank out in the back 40 and opening the bleed screw in the side of the valve. Did that. No point putting in a new valve as the tank needed re-certification. Cheaper to but a new thank than a valve install & re-cert.

    So, two empty tanks in hand, both of which still stunk. Tried hot water & detergent, sloshed, filled to overflowing, dumped out, sniffed. Stilled smelled like Broccoli. ARGH!!

    Next I dragged out the burner, poured a couple gallons of water in the tank(s), then about a cup of TSP and a healthy shot of Dawn dish detergent. To avoid any chance of a heavy HOT rainfall I screwed a 3/4" street elbow into the valve hole and a short length of pipe into that and pointed it away from where the steam/boiling water could do any damage or cause pain, especially the pain part! Fired off the burner and let it roar until the tank was rocking from then boiling turbulence inside. Let that go on for a few minutes and when dumped out and cooled the Broccoli smell was history.

    Three tanks gutted so far and no flashbang on any of them.
    Literacy should not be considered optional in computer based communication.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    I always error on the side of caution I guess...Even after the 3rd fill/purge cycle I could still smell Ethyl Mercaptan...I did it the 4th time before it was so faint I had to put my nose (and it's a BIG nose) over the hole to smell it. The torch confirmed it was empty though.

    I figured if there was even a tiny amount of LP left in the tank...it would just flame through the valve hole and not explode...I heard of one guy pulling a valve then hitting it with a flame...he said he had a 20 foot flare of fire. I wasn't going to risk that one...that could really hurt something/someone. I figured it only takes 2 weeks of time to be a little extra cautious. One thing for sure...it really wasn't much work and the pot I made is real nice. I took a 3/8" drill and made two holes...one opposite the other. I'll get a piece of 1/4" rod and bend it to make a nice "bale-wire" handle. I might even take a piece of the 1/4" rod and make a curly handle that will keep it from getting too hot. (and more comfortable to hold than just a piece of 1/4" rod)...something like this...but without the bracket.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Any thoughts other than this for a decent handle.

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  9. #9
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    I just shot several holes in the top of a couple of tanks with a .44 Magnum, above the weld line, and let them set for a few days. Then I cut the top part off with an angle grinder. I've done three of them without problems this way.

    For handles, I just buy some heavy duty handles at the hardware store for $5.99 a pair, and drill some 3/8" holes to mount them with. Really simple and saves a lot of time.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    CastingFool's Avatar
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    I was able to remove the old style valve off two empty propane tanks, with a pipe wrench and a 3' length of steel bar. Used a cheater bar on the pipe wrench and keep working on it, until the valve was loose enough to unscrew by hand. Both tanks had been sitting with the valves wide open for months.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by ReloaderFred View Post
    I just shot several holes in the top of a couple of tanks with a .44 Magnum, above the weld line, and let them set for a few days. Then I cut the top part off with an angle grinder. I've done three of them without problems this way.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    Same here and more fun too!
    It's not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years (Abe Lincoln)

    "A free people ought not only to be armed and disciplined, but they should have sufficient arms and ammunition to maintain a status of independence from any who might attempt to abuse them, which would include their own government.” George Washington

  12. #12
    Boolit Bub Dunkem's Avatar
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    Built my own as well, my old trusty rusty thrift store cast iron pan clinks and pings a little to much for my liking. Hasn't failed yet, with the exception of my stupidity when picking it up to pour the last 5 lbs that was out of ladle range. The wooden handle had burned itself loose and the pan spun dumping all over my burner and driveway. Lucky the last 15 years of dealing with molten metal for a living kept me safe, a combination off proper clothing/footwear and cat like reflexes and I was able to escape injury. Y'all got me thinking though, with a little welding of a plug in the valve hole, two pots could be made from one propane tank. After all when you're wielding a hammer, everything is a nail but when you have a welder, anything metal is whatever you want it to be.

    Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Jack Stanley's Avatar
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    Nice bead you put on that project .

    Jack
    Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !

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  14. #14
    Boolit Bub Dunkem's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Stanley View Post
    Nice bead you put on that project .

    Jack
    Thank you, I've had a little practice. Probably ran a few miles of that type of joint in my life.

    Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    Yeah, nice welds. When I made my first pot I did all the filling with water, standing upside down thing before cutting. The second one I just left it upside down for a couple of days then cut it with the angle grinder. No problems. The gas is heavier than air so leaving it upside down will drain it. The smell, as has been mentioned earlier, is Mercaptan (not gas) and is added to the gas for precisely that reason - smell, so you know if the tank is leaking. It probably impregnates the metal in the tank after a while so just because you can still smell it doesn't mean there's still gas inside.

    As for handles, I just bent some rebar to shape and welded it onto the side of the tank. Simple. And cheap!

  16. #16
    Boolit Master 4719dave's Avatar
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    wow nice welds !!!! im a nut when it comes to that ..
    Dave Biesenbach
    port charlotte fl

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Dunkem, That is some nice looking welding!

    Redhawk0, its good to see the caution that you used. I think those spring handles would work fine. Please post some pictures of the finished project. We like pictures, you know!

  18. #18
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    OK...it's nothing fancy....but here is my new cauldron. I went with a steel 3/16" rod, a spring for the handle section and a 7/16" Eyebolt on the back to aid in tipping when pouring out. I had the buy the rod and spring...but the rest I just had laying around.

    redhawk

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

  19. #19
    Boolit Master dikman's Avatar
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    The worst thing I found when making mine was the epoxy paint, or whatever it is they coat it with. Horrible stuff to remove, I tried sanding/grinding it off but that's not a good idea due to the dust it makes, I found the best way was to burn it off - stoked up the forge and set it in the coals, then just wire-brushed the residue off. It's still messy, and stinks a lot, but it was easier.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master redhawk0's Avatar
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    Yeah...that's my plan...I have a patio firepit...i'll just set it in there next time I get a hot one going.

    redhawk

    The only stupid question...is the unasked one.
    Not all who wander....are lost.
    "Common Sense" is like a flower. It doesn't grow in everyone's garden.

    If more government is the answer, then it was a really stupid question. - Ronald Reagan

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check