Lee PrecisionLoad DataReloading EverythingWideners
RepackboxRotoMetals2Titan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters Supply
Inline Fabrication
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 32

Thread: Flux Question

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    SATX
    Posts
    87

    Flux Question

    I've seen various mentions of using plain old sawdust as a very reliable flux for bullet alloy. Often these discussions include "if you don't have access to sawdust, get pet bedding." I assume that refers to the cedar bedding used for rabbits and other small pets, but there are so many different types of "small pet bedding" products that I'd be hard pressed (as a super noobie to casting) to be able to sort them out.

    So first off, for fluxing, do I want "genuine wood shaving" type bedding, or will any of the paper-based beddings work? What about the pellet-type beddings, like "Eco-Straw" peleted wheat straw?

    And if all of that is just details, can I use old corn cob or walnut tumbling media instead? It strikes me that they are both essentially the same as ground/shaved/sawn wood, as far as the actual purpose of sawdust for fluxing is concerned.

    Of course I'm open to any suggestions or educational opportunities here. I'm here to learn.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master RU shooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    SW Pa.
    Posts
    2,928
    Just about anything carbon based will work , saw dust , straw , tree bark a simple wooded paint stir stick , dry grass clippings, paper , candle wax ect ect. I throw some old crayon in and stir with a wood stick never had a problem I certainly wouldn't go out and buy something just to flux with .
    If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master dbosman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    East Lansing, MI, USA
    Posts
    1,995
    Rather than my opinion, which varies depending on what saw "dust" I have on hand, I'll refer you to http://www.lasc.us/FryxellFluxing.htm

  4. #4
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    3,402
    I use ground up corn cobs and works. I also use it for media also.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  5. #5
    Super Moderator


    ShooterAZ's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Flagstaff, AZ
    Posts
    12,064
    Walmart has pine pet bedding, that is what I've been using. When using this type material, be very careful not to stir it into the melt until it is completely turned to charcoal. To do so otherwise is an invitation to the tinsel fairy. There WILL be some degree of moisture in the bedding.

  6. #6
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    SATX
    Posts
    87
    Mr Fryxell’s article is something I’d read thoroughly and more than once. Which is why I felt it was confusing that people suggested pet bedding, particularly without specifying what kind.

    Since I have an Imperial butt-load (slightly larger than a metric butt-load) of corn cob media on hand, it looks like I’ll be OK using a little of that to flux my smelting.

    On a related note, when smelting scrap (wheel weights in my case), should I flux as soon as the stuff is thoroughly melted, or wait until after stuff like the steel clips has floated to the surface and been removed?

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Posts
    1,437
    I just use the worn out walnut hull. Then wax. Any grease or fat will work. For my smelting pot mixing up large batches of 9262 I use the used fryer oil.
    QUIS CUSTODIET IPSOS CUSTODES?

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sicklerville NJ
    Posts
    4,380
    With bedding, corn cob, etc you can leave a layer on top as a barrier.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master D Crockett's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    744
    OTShooter if you want to I will send you 2 blocks of flux that I use if you just pay the shipping of $7.20 give me a pm with your address and I will pm you mine D Crockett

  10. #10
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    SATX
    Posts
    87
    Mr. Crockett, that’s a nice offer, but I think I’ll try what I have first.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Space Coast, FL
    Posts
    2,319
    Large slotted spoon and get all the steel/? out. Then with solid spoon I get the whole thing swirling that make a crud pile in center, skim center off clean as I can. Cover with (I use sappy yellow pine dust) sitting until charcoal. Then stirring, swirling and scraping sides and bottom again to make spinning crud pile, clean and then pour ingots.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master LAH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In The Hardwoods
    Posts
    3,045
    I've used about all of it. Dry wood dust works great.

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    118
    We keep a jar under the kitchen sink. Dump bacon grease etc from cooking in it. Use it to flux the smelt only, not in the casting pot. The old guy that got me started in casting used chicken fat he got from the local KFC. They used to pay to get rid of it. Now they get paid for it and keep it locked up.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Spokane, Wa.
    Posts
    2,636
    When I am smelting wheel weights or other dirty alloys, I use candle wax and strike a match to the melt almost as soon as the smoke forms. This cuts down on the smoke somewhat, but it does still smoke and stink! Do this under plenty of ventilation.
    Once I start casting, I use nothing but Brownell's Marvel-lux. Just a pea size amount, stir it well, and THEN COVER THE MELT WITH UNUSED KITTY LITTER. This material, which is diatamaceous earth, keeps the heat in and the air from oxidizing your melt. It has an added benefit of no smoke. Obviously this method is for bottom pouring pots only.
    I have used Marvel-lux for years, and the sides of my RCBS Pro-Melt furnace remain nice and clean.

    Once again, I remain the official depository for any unwanted Marvel-lux out there, and will even pay the shipping cost if the quantity justifies it!
    It's all chicken, even the beak!

  15. #15
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,832
    Quote Originally Posted by OTShooter View Post
    Mr Fryxell’s article is something I’d read thoroughly and more than once. Which is why I felt it was confusing that people suggested pet bedding, particularly without specifying what kind.

    Since I have an Imperial butt-load (slightly larger than a metric butt-load) of corn cob media on hand, it looks like I’ll be OK using a little of that to flux my smelting.

    On a related note, when smelting scrap (wheel weights in my case), should I flux as soon as the stuff is thoroughly melted, or wait until after stuff like the steel clips has floated to the surface and been removed?
    First, when I use wood saw dust, I prefer "dust" from the saw. Anything with larger particles than dust take a while to burn up and turn into carbon.

    When I smelt COWW, just as the alloy is fully melted or a few seconds before it's fully melted (you will quickly learn that moment), I apply a layer of saw dust ("Dust" of the saw) about 1/2" thick, then I carefully stir it in. if it doesn't ignite within a couple seconds, I will ignite it with a long BBQ lighter. Then I stir the flaming alloy/clips with a long wooden dowel or branch (24" long). In about 20 seconds, the clips should not have any trace of alloy attached to them, then you can scoop them out with a slotted spoon. If there are so many clips that you can't get them out quickly enough and alloy starts to stick on the clips again, then reapply some saw dust and repeat. OK, when all the clips are removed, I then put a bit of wax (candle or beeswax) on the melt, stir and ignite it, when it burns out, I start ladling the alloy into ingot molds.

    Fluxing the Lee bottom pour casting pot:
    I fill the pot with ingots, melt the alloy, stir and scrape the sides of the pot, leave some dross on the top (about 1/2"), then I sprinkle a thin layer of saw dust on the dross. Then start casting. Leaving the dross on top does a couple things. first it insulates the alloy, keeping it a more consistent temperature, it also create a oxygen barrier so the oxides don't form. Also, if you drop the sprues from the mold right back into the pot, the Dross layer floats the sprues, so they slowly melt in, and the oxides on the surface of the sprues stay on top and don't go beneath the surface and cling to the side/bottom of your pot. I only do that with pistol boolits, I prefer to leave the alloy undisturbed for rifle boolits as well as keeping the temperature much more consistent.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So. Orygun
    Posts
    7,239
    IIRC; some wood "dust" shouldn't be used. Pressure treated wood when burned can be toxic and certain woods (cedar?) also may produce unpleasant fumes...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  17. #17
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,832
    Quote Originally Posted by mdi View Post
    IIRC; some wood "dust" shouldn't be used. Pressure treated wood when burned can be toxic and certain woods (cedar?) also may produce unpleasant fumes...
    Yes, I agree.
    I also avoid dust from plywood or other "glued" wood.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    Quote Originally Posted by jdfoxinc View Post
    I just use the worn out walnut hull. Then wax. Any grease or fat will work. For my smelting pot mixing up large batches of 9262 I use the used fryer oil.
    Be VERY careful using vibratory cleaning media! It has a lot of heavy metals in it from your casings and you do not want to breath that garbage. Same with the other "woods" mentioned about. Avoid them. I use only good old white pine sawdust from my shop. If you don't have a power saw, go buy a pine 2x4, a hand saw and start cutting. You will have a nice pile of "flux dust" in no time. No one can use the lame excuse "I ain't got no sawdust"! And you can buy pine bedding in any pet store for a few cents.

    Even dry dead leaves from you yard will work!!!!!! Any approved carbon-based material will act as a flux for your melt.

    Flux-on! (now if I can just remember where I put my FLUX CAPACITOR for the car!!!!!!)

    bangerjim

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    7,687
    I've always had enough projects going on to provide sawdust for my smelting operation. That is, until that last big marathon smelt that me and Biggin did together. I bought a bag of pet bedding, which was pine chips at Walmart. It seems like 5 or 10 pounds was only a couple of dollars. Worked fine but it did take a few more minutes for it to char.

  20. #20
    In Remembrance


    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Michigan Thumb Area
    Posts
    5,948
    A friend of mine works at the local High School. He saves for me all the pencil sharpener contents when he empties them at the end of the day. The wood and graphite works very nice as flux.Robert

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check