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Thread: H&g #130

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Dec 2006
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    H&g #130

    I bought this mold, a 4 cavity, at a gunshow a couple of years ago. It had a lot of surface rust and some pitting, all on the outside. The cavities looked good and no rust on the faces of the blocks or anywhere that counts as important. I soaked it in Evapo-Rust over night, it cleaned up pretty well except for the pitting. And it came with the handles. I don't remember what I paid but it was fairly cheap, I think the rust scared most people off.

    I just got around to using it. It is a real jewel to cast with. Bullets drop free on opening or at most a slight shake. Best casting mold I've ever owned, and I've owned quite a few from Lyman, RCBS, LBT, Lee, and Mountain Molds. Using wheel weight metal with a bit of tin it drops bullets at .454 weighing about 199 grns. I will be loading them in .45 Colt for use in a Uberti clone.

    The only negative is that the sprue plate screw keeps loosening up. I'm hoping to fix that with a 1/4" wavy type washer, forget the technical name, to keep some tension on it.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master StuBach's Avatar
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    Kudos on saving a classic. Those old H&Gs are amazing molds but they are disappearing. Good to hear one got saved.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    I only have one h and g but it has a set screw to hold the sprue plate screw once adjusted . I thought they all did .

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    I have a few H&G molds and they all cast like you have stated. All of mine have a set screw for the sprue plate screw. Maybe your set screw is missing and you just did not notice the hole? Like the others have said, good save!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    avogunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fstreed View Post
    ... It is a real jewel to cast with. Bullets drop free on opening or at most a slight shake. Best casting mold I've ever owned.....
    Hear hear!! My 2C #20 (169gr SP - Squibb) was like that from the first cast. I found this mold on ebay a few years ago and use it exclusively in my 1903. Keeping the speed down to around 1500fps, I get around 1.5-2.0MOA. AND...it hits point of aim @100yds with the leaf sight down so it's great for the informal Garand matches my club has (we only have 100yd capability). Anyway, I can make a pile of boolits fast with this, they just fall out and hardly ever have a reject.
    Semper Fi
    Last edited by avogunner; 05-07-2018 at 05:37 AM.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    A small piece of solid copper wire (like #12-10 Romex) about an 8th inch long between the set and pivot screw will hold it in place. It'll come loose after first use but then will hold after that. I set my sprue plate tension, without the wave washer, so the sprue plate will open when the mold is turned sideways but doesn't swing. I hope that makes sense. I use antiseize on all the screw threads. That #130 was real popular with the bullseye crowd after WWII.

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Mine does have the set screw that locks the sprue plate screw in place. The plate screw is worn and battered where the set screw engages it. I think a replacement screw (1/4 x 28 fillister) will fix it. And I think I will take jsizemore's advice about a piece of copper or brass to keep it from happening again.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
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    Fixed it...

    Replaced the abused sprue plate screw with a 1/4 x 28 allen type cap screw with a wavey (spring) washer, put a small pellet of 10 Ga. copper wire under the lock screw, adjusted and seated it all in, works like a champ. I wanted a new slotted fillister head screw but couldn't find one so I went with the cap screw.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    NoZombies's Avatar
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    I've had several of the #130's (and still do) and they are the best shooting design in several of my .45's.
    Nozombies.com Practical Zombie Survival

    I collect all things .32. If you have something you don't need, please let me know!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master StuBach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fstreed View Post
    Replaced the abused sprue plate screw with a 1/4 x 28 allen type cap screw with a wavey (spring) washer, put a small pellet of 10 Ga. copper wire under the lock screw, adjusted and seated it all in, works like a champ. I wanted a new slotted fillister head screw but couldn't find one so I went with the cap screw.
    I have the brownells fillister screw set, send me a pm with the thread dimensions and if I have the one you need I can send it your way.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Harter66's Avatar
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    I gave $30 for one that looked like that .
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    It cleaned up ok I guess .
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    Casts just as described .
    In the time of darkest defeat,our victory may be nearest. Wm. McKinley.

    I was young and stupid then I'm older now. Me 1992

    About that rally point, the soap and mail boxes fall on blind eyes and deaf ears,the ballot box is manipulated,it would seem we are fast running out options....

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check