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Thread: Small Ring Mauser build

  1. #81
    Boolit Buddy



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    Midway has a 35 Whelen blank for a LR Mauser. Thinking about having shank turned down and threaded for a SR Mauser. Then having a couple threads removed. And finally rechamber to a 35X57 with a 35 Whelan finish reamer.
    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/54...y-in-the-white

    Talking it over with my "smith".

  2. #82
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I think you will be happiest going that route. The 35 caliber is very hard to beat as a cast bullet rifle in my opinion.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixgunner452 View Post
    Midway has a 35 Whelen blank for a LR Mauser. Thinking about having shank turned down and threaded for a SR Mauser. Then having a couple threads removed. And finally rechamber to a 35X57 with a 35 Whelan finish reamer.
    https://www.midwayusa.com/product/54...y-in-the-white

    Talking it over with my "smith".
    I believe Larry Gibson has advocated almost exactly that. I think you can turn LR 35whelen down to SR threads, shorten the butt end, retain the 35 whelen neck/shoulder, and you can have a .35x57. If your 'smith is careful enough with the measurements, I think you do not need any reamer. and you can keep the long neck of the '06 case.

  4. #84
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    kens, That is an excellent idea. Randy.

  5. #85
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    Barrel removal/bolt lugs

    Gentlemen, I finally got the barrel off. I cut a relief like Ya'll suggested. Spun right off. Easy-peazy. Bolt set-back looked pretty good to me. Now to lap the boly lugs in. Randy.Click image for larger version. 

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  6. #86
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    Gentlemen, I finally did it. I ponied up, and ordered the LR Mauser, 35 Whelan pre-chambered barrel blank. I always say; if your gonna be a bear, be a Grizzly.

    Talked to my "Smith". Says removing about a 1/4'' from breach end, rethreading to SR Mauser specs shouldn't be an issue. He is gonna supply a barrel nut like a Savage barrel system. Should be easily head spaced by me when I receive.

    I also am gonna mail him a set of 35 Whelen dies that he will shorten 1/4'' so I can size and form the 35X57 cases. Will update progress. Randy.

  7. #87
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    Gentlemen, I know it's not much to you Pro's. But, I lapped my bolt lugs into the receiver tonight. Bolt nums did not match receiver. Started out with approx 10-15 % on lugs. Ended in the high 90's. Kinda cool. Probably took 30 mins.

    Then I lapped the barrel/receiver threads. Just put lapping compound on the barrel stub. And twist, twist, twist. Probably about a 5 min job. I couldn't believe how short a time it took. Originally the threads were heavily rusted. Spins on all the way home by hand now.

    Also found out lapping compound is easily removed with brake cleaner.

    I'm pretty much at a stand-still till I get parts back from Machinist. Randy

  8. #88
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    I have had a lot of irons in the fire so, I had to shelve my project for a while. Today I decided to work on my project. I took a few pics of me parkerizing a few Mauser parts.

    I decided to fire up my Parkerizing pot. I know. Real sophisticated! I have used Steel, and stainless “Menudo/Caldo type” pots in the past. Some people claim stainless pots are unacceptable, but have worked just fine for me.

    A slow-cooker seems to work just as good, and it was cheap at the Salvation Army Store too.

    The creepy looking stuff floating in my pot is steel wool biscuits. The recipe calls for iron filings. I have always used steel wool.
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    Pics of parts soaking/washing in TSP solution. In the past I always used brake cleaner/Dawn soap. It has always worked fine, but I read TSP worked too, and it's cheaper than Brake cleaner.
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    Pics of parts after 20 minute pickle/Park bath. 2 coats of oil. I will give several coats of oil over the next couple of days. In my experience , parts will soak oil like a sponge for a couple of days.
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    In my experience, this has been an attractive, perfectly serviceable firearm finish. It resembles arsenal finished weapons, and has been just as tough of a finish too.

    Now I just need to get my barrel. My "smith" mailed it a couple days ago. Then I can install new barrel. God Bless, Randy.

  9. #89
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    Gentlemen, for any interested ,,This is Zink-phosphate parkerizing, as apposed to manganese/phosphate park. I have always used cut, or drilled new mfg pennies for the zink. I actually ordered a lb of manganese off an Ebay vendor. It supposedly makes a more "black Parke" finish. It did not in my experience. I even tried zink-manganese-phosphate combo. Came out the same. Might be, me mixing my own chemicals as apposed to using a commercial "Brownells" type blend. Can't be helped. I am cheap. Randy.

  10. #90
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    Good Job! I prefer manganese over zinc parkerizing so unless I'm doing a U.S.A. WWII gun it gets manganese. Tried several brands, even got manganese from a pottery place and made my own. Best/most economical one is Palmetto brand. Been using it at least 20 years although there were a couple years the owner stopped advertising 10 years ago or so. Eventually his son took over the business. It lasts for years if you don't let it freeze and keep it in a closed non reactive container. I only boil the parts in tsp if there is a chance they have some hidden oil/grease in them. Otherwise they go in a clean oil drain pan with some laquer thinner and get brushed off with a chip brush before going in the solution. You can also take the parts out of the solution and quickly dip them in water to prevent iron streaking so you can inspect them. If good, then spray off with WD40 or put them back in the park tank.

  11. #91
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    Moleman-, that is some good info. I de-greased with TSP because I knew the media used was less than pristine. Also a friend of mine blasted it at work. I had it sitting in WD-40 for about a week. So the oil had to be removed. Randy.

  12. #92
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    very interesting. How do you do the barrels? What type container for that?
    Look twice, shoot once.

  13. #93
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    My smith parked it for me. In the past I made a tank from 4" pvc, capped on the end. I never made a heated tank. Some do. I just poured in heated mix. Then dipped barrel. It stayed hot long enough to parkerize. Only takes 15 to 20 mins. Randy.

  14. #94
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    I degrease before abrasive blasting anything that goes in the cabinet. That's not always possible and you're right if contamination is an issue boiling with TSP will help. If the parts are greasy you run the risk of peening grease into pockets which can mess up your surface.

    Been using the same basic setup since the 90's. Frame made out of angle iron (old bed frame) 4"x4.5"x30" SS pan made at a boat prop repair place. Gas pipe with holes drilled for the flame holes and regulator. First regulator was from a grill we were throwing out but have since replaced it with an adjustable one. Either one worked fine. About the only thing I'd do differently would be to put a drain valve in it, but that's a minor thing. There's a 10" and 16.5" ar15 barrel in the tank in the pic. The barrel extensions are teflon coated and don't darken up. Put a fired case in the chamber end, wood dowel in the muzzle end and generally put them gas port down and a tooth pick in the port. Anything you want to mask off for blasting or parkerizing can be done with electrical tape. If you should ever get any oil in the park tank, lay a sheet of paper towel on top which will soak up some solution but will also get the oil. Otherwise most guys will tell you to throw out the solution and start over. If the solution starts taking longer to make the parts black or the parts are coming out lighter, you can add a couple ounces more concentrate. It's also best done outside with you up wind. I generally do mine just inside the pole barn with the roll up door open and a fan behind me. You can see in the pic the line where the inside of the barn floor is painted and the outside is gray where the door shuts.

  15. #95
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    Moleman- that's a slick setup. I whole heatedly agree with the blasting any parts to be parked. My first go-round I wanted to do it as basic as possible. I have read sometimes at the arsenal they would sand-paper parts before parking. I tried that on a MK II pistol. I ended up having to tear it down a couple years later because I was unable to get the rust out of the pits by just sanding. I hear you can chemically strip to get all the rust. But a clean even surface looks the best. Randy.

  16. #96
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    Gentlemen, I got my barrel in from my "smith". I am impressed with his work. I included a couple pics. You can see the huge difference between my zink-phosphate park, compared to his Manganes-phosphate park finish.

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    Oh, and he is a pro. I am a hobby enthusiast at best. Randy.

  17. #97
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    Gentlemen, I really like the black-manganes-phosphate finish better than my home brewed mix. I will try to headspace tomorrow. I already have it rough-headspaced. Tomorrow I will lock the Savage type nut down tight. You can see the nut, it is the bulge at the ft of action. Wish me luck. Randy.

  18. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by sixgunner452 View Post
    Gentlemen, I really like the black-manganes-phosphate finish better than my home brewed mix. I will try to headspace tomorrow. I already have it rough-headspaced. Tomorrow I will lock the Savage type nut down tight. You can see the nut, it is the bulge at the ft of action. Wish me luck. Randy.
    Well I'll wish you luck.
    That's a fine build.
    I got a small ring in 35 remington with ghost ring sight.
    you going in .35 x 57mm, right??

  19. #99
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    Yes Sir. My smith shortened a 35 Whelen barrel, and a set of 35 Whelen dies .25'' for me. Thanks for the compliment. It ain't gonna be the prettiest custom Mauser, but it's all mine.

  20. #100
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Numrich has oil finished sporter stocks reasonably priced. I used one on a .300 Savage 98/22 and it refinished nice. However they are birch, not walnut. They do have them for SR actions.
    I'm watching your project closely; fun,fun.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check