Group Buy PID - CLOSED

[andre3k]

Man this thing rocks. I'm casting more consistent bullets with fewer culls. Thanks for putting this on.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[glockfan]

Man this thing rocks. I'm casting more consistent bullets with fewer culls. Thanks for putting this on.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

can't wait to cast with my upcoming unit.

[DukeInFlorida]

Mine has been working great. At Hatch's suggestion (I was getting funny errors), I hard wired a new thermocouple directly to the controller board. No errors since doing that. I am already building a new database of readings and notes for molds. At some point, I might be willing to provide a copy of my Excel spreadsheet for the PID controller and the various molds I pour. Trying to get more molds on the database first.

I'm finding that a spreadsheet, with tabs for each chambering/caliber, works best for me, especially because I have so many molds. I'll advise when I am ready to share what I have created.

BTW, I do all my casting with an RCBS Pro Melt (115 v). The recovery rate is a bit slow. I typically cut sprues, and dump those, while still sizzling hot, right back into the pot. That drops the temperature of the pot faster than the PID can keep up. Might have to rethink that process.

If anyone needs the original user manual for the controller module, it is available: Golander GL101 User Manual

Thanks again, Charles, for the wonderful unit, and the great service and tech support.

[40-82 hiker]

BTW, I do all my casting with an RCBS Pro Melt (115 v). The recovery rate is a bit slow. I typically cut sprues, and dump those, while still sizzling hot, right back into the pot. That drops the temperature of the pot faster than the PID can keep up. Might have to rethink that process.

Duke, I was looking at the PID manual when I downloaded it (thanks for the link), and this thought came to me:

I think you stated in a previous post that you used the "auto tune" feature. While the sprues you are adding back to the pot are still hot, you are still cooling off the hot lead in the pot at a faster rate than experienced during the "auto tune" phase. Is it possible you are needing to change SV-Hy or other parameter due to the PID seeing different usage in fact, rather than as "seen" during "auto tune"?

Just thinking this through, as I'll be getting mine one day, and just thinking out loud here. Not sure my question is worth the .02, but just thought I'd throw it our here.

I'm looking forward to getting mine! What an opportunity...

Bob

[HATCH]

At Hatch's suggestion (I was getting funny errors), I hard wired a new thermocouple directly to the controller board.

The PID was reading FFFFF intermittently. This means the TC is out of acceptable range or means the TC has a bad connection.
I have never had a customer have this issue before as I test all the units prior to shipping.
I did have the same issue a few units after Dukes and it turned out the factory crimp spade connector didn't have a good connection to the wire but it was good enough that it past my initial power up and testing.
On the unit I had the issue with I just cut the connectors off and wired directly to the PID and the problem went away.
My Standard operating procedure is to recrimp the connectors now.
The SOP is also to wiggle the wires and beat on the PID enclosure.
Haven't had any additional issues since.

[HATCH]

ALL THE UNITS ARE BUILT.
I have sent payment request out to everyone on the list.
If you do not respond to my PM then after 2 days of you being online after I sent the PM, I will remove you from the list and you will not be able to purchase a GB PID (this includes future GB on PIDS if I do one). I am sorry to have to be like this but it is unfair to me and to other members who wanted one if you take a spot but don't buy one.

I have already removed one person from the list.
There are two members that haven't logged on since the day they posted that they wanted a PID. They have until 6/1 and they will be removed.



Here is a picture of some of the packages awaiting payment

[brass410]

I would like one if someone backs out as I missed chance due to being at work. Brass410

[DukeInFlorida]

Yes, perhaps.

Since this is very much Hatch's area of expertise, I will throw it out to him. Charles, is there a way to satisfy the need for extra amps while I am tossing the cut sprues back into the pot (while they are still hot)? I very much value your insight on this one. Thanks in advance.

Duke, I was looking at the PID manual when I downloaded it (thanks for the link), and this thought came to me:

I think you stated in a previous post that you used the "auto tune" feature. While the sprues you are adding back to the pot are still hot, you are still cooling off the hot lead in the pot at a faster rate than experienced during the "auto tune" phase. Is it possible you are needing to change SV-Hy or other parameter due to the PID seeing different usage in fact, rather than as "seen" during "auto tune"?

Just thinking this through, as I'll be getting mine one day, and just thinking out loud here. Not sure my question is worth the .02, but just thought I'd throw it our here.

I'm looking forward to getting mine! What an opportunity...

Bob

[HATCH]

Duke, The PID doesn’t limit current.
So I am not sure what you are saying ‘extra amps’

What he is talking about is changing the heating curve to take into account the sprues going back into the pot.

The pot will only heat so fast.
You can plug the pot straight into the wall with no thermostat and the temp will drop when you put sprues back in.
The lower the amount of lead that is in the pot the more the temp will drop when sprues are added back. It’s the nature of the beast regardless of PID control or not.

My master caster pot will keep up if I put a handful of sprues back in but if I scoop up a bunch even it will drop enough to freeze the pour spout.

[40-82 hiker]

Got my PID today! Thanks

Edit:

Duke,

Look at the instruction manual for the PID, and you will see an explanation of the heating curve. SV-Hy is the temp at which the PID will turn you pot back on, via the SSR. There are other parameters, but I have not figured out what they mean yet.

IF, your pot was handling the sprue returns just fine BEFORE the use of the PID, then somehow you will have to modify the heating curve of the PID (e.g., increase SV-Hy to turn the pot on sooner as it cools, or change another parameter). The problem appears to be that you are using the PID in a manner in which it was not used during auto tune.

If your pot had trouble with the sprues before you got the PID, then there is nothing to be done.

All of this is subject to my actually using my PID, but this appears to be my understanding of PIDs at this point in time. Even though you are replacing the sprues while still very hot (at a fairly steady rate as you cut the sprues), they are probably already a couple of hundred degrees cooler than the molten lead in your pot, which will certainly cool off your liquid lead in the pot at a faster rate than occurred during auto tune.

Hope this helps. Hope it makes sense!

[DukeInFlorida]

See, this is why I am asking YOU the questions.
I know very little about this stuff.

I am presuming it gives always the same amperage or voltage, but just needs to pulse it to the pot faster?

Is it, indeed, the SV/Hy that I need to bump up? Or, is it some other setting. Have read the manual a few times, and think I know how to get into the programming mode.

Duke, The PID doesn’t limit current.
So I am not sure what you are saying ‘extra amps’

What he is talking about is changing the heating curve to take into account the sprues going back into the pot.

The pot will only heat so fast.
You can plug the pot straight into the wall with no thermostat and the temp will drop when you put sprues back in.
The lower the amount of lead that is in the pot the more the temp will drop when sprues are added back. It’s the nature of the beast regardless of PID control or not.

My master caster pot will keep up if I put a handful of sprues back in but if I scoop up a bunch even it will drop enough to freeze the pour spout.

[Leadmelter]

Mine made it. I am going to have to reconfigure my casting station for room.
I will look for your You Tube video to me going.
Thanks!
Leadmelter MI

[HATCH]

All the PIDs are spoken for.
Once the mail in payments arrive then I will archive this thread.

Thanks for the orders
Glad that it was completed so quickly.
This has to be a record on group buys.
30 units sold in under 24 hrs
30 units built and shipped in 30 days (well mail in payments extend it but they are ready to ship)

[glockfan]

[obssd1958]

Thanks Hatch!
Got mine yesterday, and it looks great. Due to my work schedule, I probably won't be able to use it for a couple of weeks, maybe more - but I'm looking forward to it!

[kens]

Mine arrived,
Thanks

[glockfan]

can't wait to get my unit.

[DukeInFlorida]

So that we DO NOT clog up this thread with technical questions, I have started a new thread here:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...94#post4382694

I hope that it serves to assist those who need to change any settings to enhance their casting sessions. UNLESS you REALLY NEED to change settings (Hatch's settings are very very good!), do NOT MESS with your controllers settings.

I was a naive novice with this stuff, but have learned a LOT in the past week or so of messing with the controller. I now have my PID controller running like a "Swiss watch", and am extremely happy with it. I do not purport to be an expert at this point, but I am no longer a naive novice either. I would defer to those who are more expert at programming PID controllers, for any settings changes, technical discussions of the hows and whys, and what the settings mean for practical application. So bounce on over to the new discussion thread for assistance IF and ONLY IF you feel the need for tweaking the controller.

[brass410]

Thanks Hatch got mine today. was packed great arrived in good condition. again big thanks.