Dumb question

[TaylorS]

So I’m about to order a Lee pot and get my molds to get started but the Lee doesn’t have any kind of temp readout from what I’ve read so is there any reason not to use a infrared thermometer to check temp on the lead?


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[jdfoxinc]

Get a Lyman or RCBS thermometer. I found that the reflective surface caused infrared thermometers to misread.

[ReloaderFred]

I've never had good luck with my infrared thermometer on lead. It will read dark surfaces fine, but not the shiny surface of lead.

I found a BBQ thermometer that read to 1,000 degrees F for about 1/2 the price of the casting thermometers that reads the same as my older Lyman. Just do a search and see what turns up.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[TaylorS]

Thanks guys I have read about most people using what sounds like probe thermometers but I thought the infrared would be nice if it’d go!


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[fred2892]

Search eBay for k-type digital thermometers and k-type probes. Cheaper than the old dial thermometers and more accurate. You should be able to pick up the thermometer and probe for around $20. I have 2, a really cheap $10 eBay item and a laboratory $500 one. They both read identically at the temperature ranges needed for casting.


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[slim1836]

Build you a PID (do a search), parts are cheap, or buy one from a vendor here. You can use it for your pot or oven if you decide to powder coat your boolits.

Slim

[Walter Laich]

Build you a PID (do a search), parts are cheap, or buy one from a vendor here. You can use it for your pot or oven if you decide to powder coat your boolits.

Slim

or build one for each of these. I enjoyed the building experience enough and the prices on ebay are small enough to build a second one.
my biggest problem was always finding an enclosure that wasn't too big or small.

[bangerjim]

Just do not get lost in the techy weeds on temps! I do not use a thermometer or digital readout on my Leepots and cast perfect boolit every time....1st one on....for years. It all comes from the way the dropped boolits “talk” to you when the hit the water to cool them (not harden).

Low or no sizzle = too cold
Sharp sizzle = perfect casting temp
Long deep sizzle = too hot

Preheat all your molds on an electric hotplate, not on th edge of the casting pot as we did back in the stone age.

A little experience goes a long way. You can read and ponder till your blue in the face, but REAL casting time is the best teacher.

Welcome to the insanity and plan to spend WAAAAAAAAY more that you ever dreamed you would save!

And NO........never use an IR gun to measure temps of shiny surfaces.

Banger

[Eddie17]

Low or no sizzle = too cold
Sharp sizzle = perfect casting temp
Long deep sizzle = too hot
Thank you bangerjim,
I agree with this 100%!

[RogerDat]

Compare this at $22 https://www.amazon.com/Tel-Tru-LT225...&s=lawn-garden

To this at $42 https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-2867793...70_&dpSrc=srch

Clips on edge of pot. Keep end about 1/2 inch from bottom and not touching the bottom or side so you are reading the molten lead temperature not the pot heating element temperature. The numbers on a Lee pot do give a repeatable setting. So if your COWW and solder mix casts well at "7" for a certain mold then write that down. If your 58 caliber round ball of plain lead needs to be a touch past "8" then record that. In other words you don't care if temperature is 725* or 755* what you need is where did I set the dial last time that worked well.

That said I find a thermometer very useful. Pewter melts at a lower temperature, solders at a different temp, plain lead at yet another and most importantly if I keep the WW's below the melting point of zinc then any zinc WW's that made it past my inspection don't melt into my ingot batch. So not essential but a useful tool certainly.