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Thread: Hand Forged Knife Durability Test.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Bensalem, PA
    Posts
    3,339
    Quote Originally Posted by Love Life View Post
    I believe that nowadays people expect to much a knife. They want the knife to be an axe, wedge, prybar, etc.
    And that's exactly why a lot of folks shouldn't buy a handmade knife. Sure it's their money and they can spend it as they wish, it's also their knife and they can treat it as they will but I hope most of them avoid true quality until they're able to appreciate it.
    Watching someone beat up a factory-made blade as if it were just a sharpened crowbar doesn't bug me as much as it would if they were whacking away with a Randall or a Bagwell, etc.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    592
    I have put my Randall model 15 through a good bit of use. I don’t abuse it, just use it. A well made knife is comforting, and a joy to hold in the hand.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    san antonio, tx
    Posts
    865
    To All,

    I once had a Randall-made fighting knife that I carried for decades since RVN. = It was ripped off in checked luggage on a trip from DFW to SC. = Took/held a good edge for a long time.
    (I suspect the security people, as the man made me take it out & show it to him at the X-ray machine. - As I was checking it in a locked suitcase, I saw no reason to show it to the security folks.)

    Believe it or not, Delta Airlines gave me 25.oo for it when I made a claim, as they said, "It's old & worth little."

    I said all that to say this: I'd buy a custom made fighter, that will fit in a M-1 Carbine bayonet sheath, if I could find a good maker that KNOWS what he's about & can make a blade that takes a razor-sharp edge & holds an edge well.
    (I'm NOT looking for "fancy". Just a really good, working knife.)

    yours, tex.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by KenH View Post
    Scotland, that is one nice looking dagger! The skill it takes to get both bevels even with the grind line centered and come out exactly at the point is considerable. I've done one dagger, much smaller than that, forged from an old file. I'm impressed with your skills - do you still make knives?
    Very occasionally nowadays. Like gunsmithing and many another thing, the amateur, who doesn't cost up his time, can take several times longer than someone who has to make a living at it. Not only is it hard to keep the spine of a double-edged blade straight, but if it forms a shallower V on one side than the other, it will take a bow shape in the quenching. The acid etch, which you can feel with your fingers, is done with enamel paint and Letraset transfer print, and darkened with cream cold bluing compound - the only use I have for the stuff. The hilt is brass, plated with a motorcycle nickel-plating kit. But horses for courses - I don't pretend that this knife has any practical use in modern times.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check