RotoMetals2Titan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters SupplyInline Fabrication
RepackboxReloading EverythingSnyders JerkyLee Precision
Wideners Load Data
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 27 of 27

Thread: 2nd casting attempt, still struggling..

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    118
    Quote Originally Posted by Road_Clam View Post
    Thanks guys for all the input. I'll focus on some quicker flow . I did observe the fact my baco pp mould has a slightly larger sprue fill hole vs the Old West. I definitely had better results with the baco mould. I was using my LEE pro 20# pot for pours and I have the flow almost maxed out. Im thinking I will have to step up to a ladle pour method.
    Not familiar with Lee pots, but increasing or decreasing the distance between the top of the mould and the nozzle can make a bit of difference.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    New Hampshire
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by Arkansas Paul View Post
    I also ladle bigger bullets.
    For .40 and .357/.38 I use the bottom pour. For .44 and .45 Colt, I ladle. It just works better for me.
    Agreed. This was my first run of 525+ gr bullets and i'm pretty sure my LEE Pro pot simply lacks sufficient flow speed to fill such a large grease grooved mould. Too bad as the LEE Pro pot is just awesome for pouring as it functions perfect for smaller pours. I casted some 312-180 RN's and those bullets came out very nice. Good news is my BACO 535 paper patch mould does not have grease grooves and those casts came out very good even using the LEE pot. The only bullet I will need to ladle pour is my Old West 545 grease groove mould.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    N edge of D/FW Metromess
    Posts
    10,502
    Sounds like you have this pretty well figured out, OP. It's been my experience that the big old school single/double moulds like to be ladle poured. May be the pour rate, may be pressure pouring. I don't know. Some moulds need to be scrubbed, heat cycled and/or broken in. They all need to be at the correct temperature; some just get there easier than others. When you figure out what these moulds need to drop great boolits, write it down! Next time you get the mould out, check your notes.
    My load notes notebook has a page or two in each cartridge section where I try to write down what it takes to make a given mould happy. They may look like blocks of metal but just like rifles, they all have personalities. Learn what your mould wants and give it what it wants and everybody's happy.
    Endowment Life Member NRA, Life Member TSRA, Member WACA, NRA Whittington Center, BBHC
    Smokeless powder is a passing fad! -Steve Garbe
    I hate rude behavior in a man. I won't tolerate it. -Woodrow F. Call, Lonesome Dove
    Some of my favorite recipes start out with a handful of depleted counterbalance devices.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,377
    I had a 10lb Lyman bottom pour lead pot. Try as I might could not get decent cast no matter what I tried. removed the valve pieces and plugged the spout by drilling and tapping the hole then added a screw. Got a Lyman casting dipper and never looked back. My alloy is wheel weights with 2% tin added. Frank

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    NW Oklahoma
    Posts
    311
    Have you measured" miked" the boolits with the rounded lube grooves compared to the " square" lube grooved boolits to see what you actually have in diameter. Unless I missed something in this post this is a important piece of info. If you have a micrometer use it. If not a digital caliper will do. If you diameters are the same they should shoot good. If you are shooting 1000 yds then you will be weighing each boolit and these will be rejected. 2% tin should give you good fillout and square lube grooves, if not it is your casting method. I cast 535 gr boolits in a single cavity iron Lyman mould and a antique 525 gr mould. All are with a LEE 20# pot bottom pour and no problems. Keep your lead temp high and cast as quick as you can and you will get good boolits. Don't worry if you get frosted boolits. That means you can slow down. Big boolits are a challenge but if you pay attention to details and document them they will be as easy as 30 cal. If your LEE 20# doesn't pour fast enough you may consider drilling the spout out. As all mass produced items maybe yours has a small spout. Use only the next size numbered drill bit to open the orifice up and try it and then proceed from there. Good luck my friend

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    9,298
    Quote Originally Posted by samari46 View Post
    I had a 10lb Lyman bottom pour lead pot. Try as I might could not get decent cast no matter what I tried. removed the valve pieces and plugged the spout by drilling and tapping the hole then added a screw. Got a Lyman casting dipper and never looked back. My alloy is wheel weights with 2% tin added. Frank
    I bought a Lee Magnum Melter ( 20 lb.) and a new Lyman casting dipper and wish I had done that years ago. I gave the 10 lb bottom pour to a fellow member who lost his stuff in a house fire.
    The 20 lb. pot beats the 10 lb. pot seven ways to Sunday.
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    barry s wales uk
    Posts
    2,655
    I use a 10 lb Lee pot ,for big boolits 400 g upwards run pot hot and cast fast to keep the mold hot for good fill out with smaller boolits I usually run two or three molds to allow more time for sprues to cool .

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check