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Thread: Case separated at mid point. How to remove?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Local gum smith removed casing using a 1/4” easy out while tapping from muzzle end using a cleaning rod. Thanks for everyone’s help

  2. #22
    Banned

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    Well how about that. Guess I was pretty dang close with what I said!!!

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Yep!!

  4. #24
    Boolit Bub
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    A tap works 100% of the time. Been using it for decades.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
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    This is for next time......learn what an incipient crack is and watch for them on the case body.
    When you spot one....don't load it. The next step from incipient is to partial or full separation.
    Once you learn what to look for...it looks like a little line or groove on the case body going around it's circumference . The line will start out small but quickly grows to a separation....
    Watch for them pesky things! They cause you a lot of trouble and oath utterings
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    swheeler's Avatar
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    Bama glad you got it out.
    Hell, I was there!

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    This is for next time......learn what an incipient crack is and watch for them on the case body.
    When you spot one....don't load it. The next step from incipient is to partial or full separation.
    Once you learn what to look for...it looks like a little line or groove on the case body going around it's circumference . The line will start out small but quickly grows to a separation....
    Watch for them pesky things! They cause you a lot of trouble and oath utterings
    Gary
    The cracks I have. Found in past start from the inside and when you see on outside, it has already separated. I normally check all fired cases before loading with an L bent piece of piano wire sharpened to a fine point. It can detect thinned areas and cracks larger than the sharpen ed point. I don,t know of a better. Way! I norm ally remove all wax or lube from cases and from chamber. I am now wondering if totally clean brass and dry chamber is such a good idea?

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by swheeler View Post
    Bama glad you got it out.
    Thanks!

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Next time- sulfur bonds with copper/brass. Get it all clean, (no moly) melt some sulfur, pour it in ( bore blocked) let it harden for a couple minutes, tap it out from the muzzle. This will always work unless the brass is plated or contaminated with moly or some crazy homemade lube stuff.
    Always works, no chance of damage to chamber. Do NOT use a rat tail file ever.

    Post some 303 Savage loads, or stories.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Gun smith gave me the easy out— said it would happen again someday, just a matter of time and cases loaded. I will need to get some sulfur just in case. It is really a bummmer to have one stuck! Working with metallurgist to see what technology is available to detect cracks or thinning.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    For tapered cases you can often chamber another fired case. Jam it into the broken case and your rifle's extractor will pull both cases out.

    I have pulled a lot of cases out of Lee-Enfields with that trick.
    EDG

  12. #32
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by EDG View Post
    For tapered cases you can often chamber another fired case. Jam it into the broken case and your rifle's extractor will pull both cases out.

    I have pulled a lot of cases out of Lee-Enfields with that trick.
    Some of the guys that I shoot with have M-16's and its pretty common to find the neck of a 223 case stuck to a loaded round, laying on the firing line. And have separated broken 223 brass laying around after they shoot. I wondered if you could intentally shove a loaded round into the broken neck and get it out.

  13. #33
    The thing that puzzled me was that the separation came in the middle of the case, which isn't the usual place. It might be that the case was engaging with pitting or other damage in the chamber. Maybe someone in the past had used a rat-tail file.

    All seems well that ends well, and you heard some good advice. A case extractor is the counsel of perfection, but they aren't made for every calibre. The ones that work best catch the front edge of the neck rather than the interior, and that may fail if you have chamfered the neck heavily.

    Cerrosafe has that special brief contraction to permit extraction. Leaving it for a few hours would help, and there are very similar alloys which don't contract - including low melting point solders, which should be best of all if you clean and flux the inside of the case. But it costs money and delay to get some, which you may never use again. I would have tried cutting off the part of that cast which fitted inside the case, and epoxying it in place. Then you could knock out the whole thing from the muzzle.

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    It might work but I would much prefer to try a fired case or even a resized but not loaded case.
    I suppose a dummy round might pull a broken neck but using a live round should be sort of a proceed with caution exercise.

    Quote Originally Posted by lightman View Post
    Some of the guys that I shoot with have M-16's and its pretty common to find the neck of a 223 case stuck to a loaded round, laying on the firing line. And have separated broken 223 brass laying around after they shoot. I wondered if you could intentally shove a loaded round into the broken neck and get it out.
    EDG

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    The only time I have had head separations in my M-16 was with two lots of surplus LC-73 and LC-74 ammo. About 1% of them separated at the anneal line on the case. Most came out when the next case jammed into it. The couple that did not came out when a tight patch was run from the muzzle end. They did the same thing in a Colt SP1 but not my bolt gun. So far those are the only case head separations that I have had. Guns others have brought to me have either allowed removal with a bore brush, or I put the action in the chest freezer and they fell out after the gun got down to temp.

    -yarro

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check