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Thread: 300 BO brass, use commercial or mil?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master wonderwolf's Avatar
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    300 BO brass, use commercial or mil?

    I'm working on 300 BO brass for my "poor mans 30 carbine" project. I have tons of .223 and 5.56 brass and wondering which case I should use for the development of loads? I have a bunch of range pick up to go through first but its all mixed of course, I'm wondering if it matters to use mil or commercial brass that much so long as I have a midrange or slightly above load.
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  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    I would use LC brass, it is a known good brass with a thickness that will allow the seating of a .308 projectile without the need for neck turning. There is a list on 300blktalk of known good/bad brass. PM me your email address, I'll send you a PDF with some good info on 300blk with said list in it.
    "Freedom is the sure possession of those alone who have the courage to defend it."
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master popper's Avatar
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    Almost any works, some end up with thick necks after converting so may need neck turning or scrap. Normal max LOADED neck O.D. is > .331. Chamber neck I.D. is nominally 0.333.
    Whatever!

  4. #4
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    LC is great to convert to blackout .. Any US Brand will be OK .. some foreign brands will have varying neck thicknesses and can cause you some issues
    If using multiple brands and shooting groups or Hunting I would separate by brand
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master


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    Start with one and stay with one, you may have fluctuation between civilian and military brass due to case capacity. I have used both and for me it is easier to use LC brass due to availability and once the crimp is removed its all good to go.
    "Yes or no will almost always suffice as the answer"

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    I have converted quite a bit of LC and RP. Both work, but are kept separate for different loads.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master wonderwolf's Avatar
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    Many thanks for the help guys, as always great info! I'll go through and sort for LC headstamp as I know I have a bunch of it currently. This 300 BO has been a interesting project for me, I see it as a sort of modern M1 Carbine...a little more useful than .223 but not really a .308....something that would be useful for every household in my opinion for home defense and taking deer etc.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Funny thing with some of the lake city brass is the depth of the primer pocket , having bought some with swaged pockets I was still having some difficulty in seating primers . Running a primer pocket uniformer I found some to be very shallow and requiring a lot of reaming .

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    LC here as well. I'll have a few hundred rounds of mixed brass that I use for plinking ammunition and experimental loads. I was going to set myself up to make my own brass, then I found a man who converts military 223 brass to 300 Blackout on a Exchange basis. If I give him 200 223 brass he gives me 100 300 Blackout brass-LC headstamp.

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  10. #10
    Boolit Master Randy Bohannon's Avatar
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    There are a bunch of people who have pretty elaborate set up's for converting .223/5.56 brass to 300BO. My last 2K pieces came from Fancy Brass for less than $200.00 all LC.With so many people doing it for cheap it's hardly worth the time anymore.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master popper's Avatar
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    I'm seeing a lot of real BO brass at the range now. A caveat to purchasing converted brass is it may not H.S. correct in your gun. For quality jacketed stuff, most works fine, cast - you still get to measure and decide. Chop saw, trimmer, chamfer & swager costs may decide for you. If you purchase you might ask for 'long' H.S. sized cases that you then resize to fit your gun. I have a bucket of mixed range pickup I converted and I treat them like pistol brass- shoot em till the neck splits of PP wear out. I can't tell the difference in any HS.
    Whatever!

  12. #12
    Boolit Bub
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    I’ve converted GI and commercial brass without any issues. But I think it’s a great idea to just stick to one source headstamp, like LC. You should get more consistent case qualities that way, particularly if you stick to ONCE fired LC brass.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    This 300 BO has been a interesting project for me, I see it as a sort of modern M1 Carbine...
    I see I'm not the only one who compares the Blackout to the old Carbine, at least a little. My first reason for comparison was because the cost to load the two rounds is nearly the same: a cast bullet with a gas check and a very similar charge of H110. It get about the same velocity, except with a 50 grain heavier bullet.

    It makes for a fun plinker that's significantly more powerful and generally a lot more accurate than the average M1 carbine.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Reverend Al's Avatar
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    I've stuck with commercial .223 brass in my 700 Remington bolt action .300 BO, but the big thing is that you ensure that the formed cases headspace properly in your rifle. I bought a "good deal" on 500 rounds of formed .300 BO made from commercial FC cases and it was all at least 10 thousandths short on headspace in my Remington! I had to re-neck expand all 500 rounds until they were oversized and then adjust my sizing die to resize and form the shoulders at the correct length to headspace correctly in my rifle ... then they were fine.
    I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check