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Thread: 20-1 for Sharps bullets

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    792

    20-1 for Sharps bullets

    I have a 1874 Sharps in 45-70 that Im interested in shooting and have talked to several of these shooters and they suggest a 20-1 alloy.i looked at a alloy hardness test i found on another thread and noticed the hardness for that is about 11 BRN hardness.Is wheel weights about the same hardness? Couldnt i just use wheel weights and achieve the same thing or am i missing something?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    5,302
    Wheel weights will put you in that neighborhood. Sometimes a pinch of pewter will help fill out the mould. Try without first.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Mar 2013
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    I load for several of these single shot rifles. I get my best results with 20-1 in them. It seems to bump up better than other alloies under the pressures my BP loads produce. Most are using 20-1 down to 15-1. some do add a very little antimony to toughen the noses to help prevent slump. While wheel weights may be in the same basic hardness range on the brinell scale that dosnt tell the whole story. A tougher alloy may resist the needed bumping up to completely seal the bore Wheel weights can vary from when made and manufacturers specs some also. Stick ons are pretty much pure lead also. What might make a pretty good alloy is 1 part wheel weights to 4 parts 20-1 this would add a small amount of antimony to help prevent the nose slump. and still allow for the bullet to bump up. With this alloy I would air cool and check hardness after a couple weeks ageing.
    I use straight 20-1 in 38-55, 40-65, 45-70 ( 3 different rifles) and 45-90. My bullets are long and heavy for caliber 38 are 335-360 grn 40 cals are 400 - 425 grn 45 cals are 500-550 grns.

    Correct bullet fit to the barrel seems more important to me than actual bullet hardness, But the softer alloies ability to bump up seems to make up a little for fit.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    36
    I have received the best results in several different caliber rifles from 38-50 to 50-70 by using 20-1. It is much easier to duplicate mixtures when dealing with only two components--pure lead and pure tin. I once bought 300 pounds of 20-1 that was from a foundry and the bullet weight and performance was very consistent.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    792
    wheres the cheapest place to by tin> anyone on here sell it?

  6. #6
    Moderator
    RogerDat's Avatar
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    Nov 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by barnabus View Post
    wheres the cheapest place to by tin> anyone on here sell it?
    Swapping and Selling forum will often have tin alloy's or post a WTB (wanted to buy) for soft lead and solder/tin.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

    Feedback page http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...light=RogerDat

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check