The cheap hot glue guns with sticks from Walmart work fine. Overfill then trim with hot blade after they solidify. Make sure the last card is a hard card for a solid launch.
The cheap hot glue guns with sticks from Walmart work fine. Overfill then trim with hot blade after they solidify. Make sure the last card is a hard card for a solid launch.
"My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
Leonard Ravenhill
MSM: Here's a suggestion from the peanut gallery. If the lead isn't staying put in the cavity, could you tap in a screw as in attaching a tail wad and screw it in past flush with the base and pour lead around the anchor? Gp
I just filled the rest of my heat treated slugs with hot glue. It seems to have worked really well, no indication it will fall out at all. The weight of the slug only went up to about 771-772 grains, so very little change. I'll give them another coat of alox, and if nothing falls out from that jostling, they should be good to go.
I've had the hot melt glue come out of very tapered HB cavities. If the slugs are pre-warmed it should stick better and if you do the sand paper roughening trick that should help.
If you want to be really sure take gp's suggestion and drill and tap for a small wood screw then run it in past the bottom of the skirt. That's what I do with my Brenneke clones... except no skirt. I just leave the head sticking up a bit then slide the slug into the glue form and pour in the glue. The screw holds it very well. Only disadvantage... it's extra work!
Works great in the Lyman slugs too.
"My main ambition in life is to be on the devil's most wanted list."
Leonard Ravenhill
I am going to cast more of these slugs this weekend, and am hoping for better luck this time around. I have been doing some research, and found lots of old posts by dixie slugs. One thing that stood out was his recommendation to fill the cavity with buffer, rather than hot glue. That's certainly something for me to try. Another thing is he used cork wads in addition to nitro cards. His claim was that felt, fiber, and other collapsible wads were not consistent, and would cause the slug to cant. He seemed to get very good accuracy with a stack of gas seal, 2 nitro cards, cork wads (did not specify amount), and one more nitro before the slug.
One other thing to note that I did not realize before. Look at the picture of the recovered slug on page 2. It is more obvious in person, but clearly that slug was skidding. Not like revolver hitting the forcing cone skidding either. It looks to me like the slug engraved, then somehow skipped in the bore and engraved a second time. At first I thought it was just scratches, but it is consistent all the way around. This is really odd to me, I can't even picture how it happened.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |