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Thread: Keeping Rust Off an Octagon Barrel? Help needed.

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    Feb 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by greenjoytj View Post
    My experience with home applied bluing solutions is the bluing causes rusting to occur.
    The chemical just won’t stop working even after cleaning and oiling repeatedly plus it makes the metal smell bad even years after the bluing was applied.
    Find a way to neutralize the bluing solution then apply a chemical that features anti rust properties
    like EEZOX, Barricade etc.... not just an oil. Petroleum based waxes have a very poor reputation as a rust preventer. Maybe the new plastic polymer based waxes like those once a year car waxes.
    I bought a Uberti Low Wall with beautiful blue but every time I wiped it down my cloth had a reddish residue & no matter what I did, didn't work. Mixed baking soda with water & brought to a boil & plugged the bore and poured it all over barrel. It immediately formed a whitish coating. Left it on about 5 minutes and rinsed with clear boiling water. Did it twice to be sure. Completely neutralized the rust process. Oiled it down & no red on cloth. Blue just as beautiful. Problem solved.
    Bob

  2. #22
    Boolit Master knifemaker's Avatar
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    If you are having that much of a problem with fine rust, you may want to switch from using oils to using a good wax that will protect the surface. I am a custom knife maker and on my carbon steel knives I use Renaissance Wax. It is a wax that the British museum uses to protect their metal artifacts. You can get it from knife supply stores or even Ebay. I made my first carbon steel knife about 10 years ago and put two coats of Renaissance wax on it and it sits in a open display case in the living room. It is still bright and shining as the day I placed in the display case. I live in a mountain area of N. CA. and the humidity gets up there in the winter time and no effect on the knife blade.

  3. #23
    Boolit Bub
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    Jun 2012
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    I store my guns in a safe with dehumidifier. On top of that they're oiled, placed in gun socks which are placed inside bags made of VCI (vapor corrosion inhibitor) tubing heat sealed at both ends. This stuff https://www.uline.com/BL_201/VCI-Poly-Tubing. Nothing has rusted yet.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
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    Waxes (or Emmerts, being mostly wax) will always protect longer than oils. I stopped using petroleum-based products on blued metal after a couple of spectacular failures (plus I heard a rumor that some of them will attack the bluing after a while but I don't know if there's any truth to that).
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master BigEyeBob's Avatar
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    Liquid lanoline ,the industrial stuff ,not the pharmacy stuff . Just wipe a light coat on and let it dry.
    Formy machinery tables i use camillia oil aka tea oil ,bit hard to find ,but its very good dries and leaves a film on the surface . I managed to get two bottles from the local super market ,but they must have been the last ,havent seen it since.
    In days gone by after blueing the traditional gun makers used to give the metal parts a light coat of linseed oil to protect the finish . I have done this after rebluing a Martini cadet barrel and now I come to think about it have seen no signs of rust on the barrel .

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Sep 2010
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    Lovettsville, VA
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    Flitz Gun Wax is carnuba and bees wax. Remove the oil first.

    CLP will also work. I have owned numerous octagon barrels over the years with no problems. Wipe down with CLP before putting them up has always worked for me.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    RIG grease on a rag

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    Plus one on RIG grease. Lived in Lousianna for 10+ years, shop was unheated or cooled. RIG was the only thing that worked on Lathe and drill press.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Dan Cash's Avatar
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    I fail to grasp the problem some are having with rust on octagon barrels. I have a number of octagon barrel rifles ranging from an 1893 Marlin to a 1975 vintage Shiloh Sharps and have not expereienced any untoward tendency to rust. A couple of the rifles are heavily used and frequently exposed to rain and snow. These get dried off and wiped down with Ed's Red as do the safe queens. No rust. Presently, the climate where I live is not that humid but I have lived in Kentucky and Colorado at other times in my life had no rust problem there either.
    To paraphrase Ronald Reagan, the trouble with many shooting experts is not that they're ignorant; its just that they know so much that isn't so.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy
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    Mar 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bird View Post
    I have fitted several barrels to various rifles of mine, that have been left as bare steel. I just use plain car wax, and they don't rust even though I live close to the beach and high humidity. Paste or liquid, Turtle wax.
    Car wax is formulated to take a fair bit of abuse from the hottest to the coldest, driest to the wettest climates. Just add another coat after a couple of months if needed. Its a lot cleaner than oil, and it will not damage any wood.
    What he said.


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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check