Thanks Sutherpride59.
Thanks Sutherpride59.
" My people skills are just fine. It's my tolerance for idiots that needs work."
Not from this GB but a great photo of 311410 with long pins. After cutting sprue I lightly tap on hinge pin to start open the mould halves then I turn mould upside and finish opening with taps and with handles. They fell off pins immediately. Preheat mould on a hot plate for 20min/I use 380C (2cav) and 390C -400Celzius on my furnace for 4cav.
Yesterday's mail was better than the normal Tuesday junk. Today's weather was not as exciting.
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Didn't realize these were brass when I ordered. Always wanted to try running a brass mold, now's the chance.
Retired Redleg
I came into this world kicking and screaming covered in someone else's blood, I don't mind going out the same way.
Maybe the picture of the brass mold is the listing I should have looked at .Was way to motivated to order to even look at the specifics. Already was on the list for another mold and have a couple on the shelf that I love already. I am thinking this is what I need, knowing that you can run a brass mold a little hotter than aluminum and I like a extremely fast cadence while casting.
Retired Redleg
I came into this world kicking and screaming covered in someone else's blood, I don't mind going out the same way.
The description of the metal used for machining the mold is ALWAYS mentioned by the honchos. You don;t have to look at pictures of previous runs of a mold to determine the metal, typically aluminum or brass. Read the actual paragraph of the mold description for the metal information. Especially when it is a brand new mold design.
Sometimes, the mold maker offers options in the mold metal. For example, one of my other group buys lists the 2 and 4 cavity versions as being brass. However, the 6 cavity version is aluminum only.
Welcome to the wonderful world of MP-Mold's amazing molds. I know you will be happy with it. And, that you will consider additional MP-Mold offerings.
Changing the subject:
If anyone has had difficulty in getting their mold, or tracking delivery information, please let me know. I'll do what I can from here to assist.
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Very happy with mine duke! Got it tuesday also
Say....now that I have my beautiful mold, and I *do* mean beautiful...
What data are you guys using for this boolet in 300BLK?
I love this mold, I cast a beautiful pile of boolits today and this mold rains freaking bullets.
Retired Redleg
I came into this world kicking and screaming covered in someone else's blood, I don't mind going out the same way.
Yes, you are correct. No mention (in words) about the molds being brass.
However, a couple of things we should all be aware of:
1) Miha likes to make the Hollow Point molds in brass, so most of the time, that is what they will be.
2) The images from a previous make of the mold is a pretty good indicator (although not 100% perfect) of the nature of the current buy manufacturing.
So, thank you for pointing out my omission. I'll try better in the future to be more precise. I'm hoping that you, and all who purchased this mold are happy.
Thank you again for buying MP-Molds, and allowing me to be one of the honchos.
NRA Life Member
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NRA Life Member
NRA Certified Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor
Author of a book on reloading
ILSA MEMBER http://www.internationallawnsteelsho...ssociation.com
NRA RANGE SAFETY OFFICER
Is anybody having feeding issues with these in an AR15? I’m seating them to the crimp groove and my gun does not want to grab that first one for anything, fully loaded or with only 10 in the mag. The gun loads them fine during cycling but that initial loading releasing the bolt via the catch or pulling the charging handle it’s fliping the round up too much in the front and almost seems to be pushing the back down.
Sounds less like a boolit issue, and more like a mag or feed ramp issue.
There are TWO overall lengths mentioned in all reloading books:
1) The COAL mentioned on the first page (Title Page) of that cartridge is NOT the length to seat all bullets to. That page shows the MAX length that any cartridge can be, and still feed through the magazine, up and into the feed ramp, into the chamber. Anything longer than that COAL will jam in the process.
2) The OAL mentioned on the page where the specific load data is FOR THAT BULLET is the length that you want to use. That is the one that will give you the pressure results that they tested with that bullet.
Now, I know you said that you seated these to the crimp groove. My suggestion is that you ignore the actual location of the crimp groove. And, seat them to a length that is described in a reloading data book.
The 50th Edition of the Lyman book (my usual first resource for any cast boolit load data) doesn't show any loads for a 1340 grain boolit like this one. However, the OAL for the 160 grain (Lyman mold 311672) is 2.050". And, the OAL for Lyman 311332 is 2.110" (another .005" longer).
The trimmed brass length is 1.368"
The nose of the bullet to the crimp groove is .440"
That adds up a bit SHORT ( quick math = 1.808" ) if you seat them to the crimp groove. You might try seating them longer than you have.
I haven't loaded any of these (or even yet casted any) in 300 Blackout yet, and so haven't tested them. What is your OAL when seated to the crimp groove??
Last edited by DukeInFlorida; 10-19-2018 at 01:20 PM.
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I have been playing a lot with 311410 this year and it feeds fine from my Ruger Ranch 300 BLK magazine if my COL is 1.968” (50mm) or longer.
Thanks, Gamsek. That confirms my rough calculations.
In the 300 Blackout, making them close to the 2.000" over all length should work fine. Nothing wrong with assembling them to that length. You do not want to be seating them a lot longer. That would so the seating into the lube groove, which would not be productive.
But, seating them, as 300 Blackouts, into the crimp groove, with a semi-auto rifle, might not work well.
Keep in mind that this is a multi-purpose rifle boolit. The 300 blackout is only one of the uses.
It can also be used as a heavy 30 carbine boolit. Or, a light boolit for any of the normal 30 caliber rifles ( .308 win, 30-30, etc). And, the larger diameters can be used for any of the European rifles (91-30, 303 Brit, etc). Lots of options, but each one requires some adjustment. The bolt actions are easier to work through.
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Has anyone NOT yet received their mold on this one???
NRA Life Member
NRA Certified Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor
Author of a book on reloading
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |