Do you use a pistol compensator with powdercoated boolits?

[zubrato]

Really liking PC for ease of use and production, but on my pistol comp have noticed some lead building up, and don't want to keep making and disposing of "the dip".

A few Q:

Have you experienced any leading on the compensator using powdercoated boolits?

Have you noticed a degradation of accuracy from the gas erosion on the boolit by the comp?

Any degradation of accuracy or POI shift from lead accumulating on the comp?

Note: I have used lead boolits with a rifle comp in 223, and pressure from FMJ rounds cleared it right out, not so with pistols. Tried the same with 124gr NATO ball with no effect, short of a few flakes being loosened. Tips?

Obligatory pics. G19 with a Mayhem Syndicate pistol comp.

[igolfat8]

I shoot about 15K rounds annually from my open 9mm Glocks. I did get lead deposits in my comps when shooting HiTek but I don’t get any lead build up with Smokes Powder coat paint. I do get gas cutting in the aluminum comp baffles and only get about 5K through the comp before it’s worn out. I don’t have any accuracy issues due to lead build up but do experience performance issues as the comp wears and becomes less effective and less flat shooting.

[kayala]

I only have 460 and 500 S&W compensated. I shoot commercial PC in both of those and never seen any leading. Granted it was under 1k through both of them.

[zubrato]

I shoot about 15K rounds annually from my open 9mm Glocks. I did get lead deposits in my comps when shooting HiTek but I don’t get any lead build up with Smokes Powder coat paint. I do get gas cutting in the aluminum comp baffles and only get about 5K through the comp before it’s worn out. I don’t have any accuracy issues due to lead build up but do experience performance issues as the comp wears and becomes less effective and less flat shooting.

Interesting, I use Eastwood powder.
Have you changed powders in that time?
I’m not using the ideal powder for activating the comp (titegroup) but I have a lot of it and it does work the comp. I wonder if switching to a slower powder would increase or decrease the leading/powdercutting effect I’m seeing on the bullets


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[igolfat8]

I use slower propellants to create more gas for the comp, HS6 and WSF. How long do your coated bullets set (loaded) before you shoot them?

I only use Smoke’s powder paint now

[zubrato]

Do you mean OAL or how long I let the alloy or the PC itself cure?
I let the PC/alloy sit for about 2 weeks before loading up, and once I load it's a crapshoot between a few days or a few months depending on if I've filled up an ammo can.

I chose a HTC style slick side bullet to not "catch" gas on the bullet profile as well.

I'll definitely be trying different powders to see how much performance I can squeeze out of the comp, but it accurately represents my carry ammo and I need to make a lot for training classes so I won't be reaching too far from TG unless it cures the leading issue. Not to mention try some of smokes powders and see if it's the Eastwood stuff that isn't up to the task.

[igolfat8]

I meant how long you let your loaded ammo set before you shoot it. TG, BE, WSF and a host of other powders will attack and soften powder coat paint. Therefore, if your ammo sets for more than 2 days, the nitro will begin to soften the paint on the base of your PC bullets. When propellant ignition occurs, the paint can burn off exposing bare lead and the vaporized lead mist will deposit lead in the comp. The ONLY propellant that will NOT attack PC paint is Aliant Sport Pistol powder!

[zubrato]

very interesting, I vaguely remember something about this long before I started PC. I'm going to leave some coated boolits in TG and see how long it takes to break down.

However, I have a strong feeling its not the base, but rather the gas cutting the PC bullet once the base of the bullet leaves the barrel, and the gas escapes hitting the baffles and cutting the bullet as it passes through. I feel as though a slower powder with a higher volume of gas may exaggerate the problem, similar to how flame cutting works in a revolver due to the higher volume of gas, but I have yet to test or confirm this.

Im really hoping I can figure this out, since even FMJ's will lead a comp and even worse than my PC coated bullets. Would be great if PC could act similarly to a TMJ bullet, but I just dont think PC can take that kind of blast from burning powder, but your post gives me hope, igolfat8!

[igolfat8]

I’ve recovered several PC bullets from the berm. There is absolutely no bare lead exposed on the sides of the bullets from the rifling. I run KKM barrels with standard rifling too.

FMJ bullets still have bare lead exposed bases, right? Therefore the base burns / vaporizes lead and deposits in the comp baffles and ports.

[zubrato]

igolfat8, you were 100% right, I left my PC'd Eastwood Ford light blue bullets in some TG, and by day 2 theyre looking matte and feeling sort of tacky compared to the glossy hard shell.

I'm sort of at a fork in the road, between switching PC or powder.

You mentioned Alliant Sport pistol powder, but switching powder is a huge change compared to switching PC manufacturers. In your experience would you say TG attacks most PC, or all PC including Smokes'?
Are certain colors more resistant?

Thank you greatly for your help. I thought I had purchased a high quality powder, and for most applications I would say it's just fine. I didn't consider the PC softening from the pistol powder, despite TG eating up my old plastic hopper from RCBS.

[igolfat8]

I can’t say positively TG attacks all PC but it does attack Eastwood and Smoke’s PC. I have Smokes Green, both Blues, Purple, Pink and Black and it attacks all those colors. I feel your pain because I have a significant stash of TG, BE, Clays and WSF as well as HS6 and AutoComp propellants. You can still use those powders BUT you should shoot them soon after loading them. How soon is the big question I can’t answer yet. Any ammo that I am currently loading for long term storage will be Sport Pistol. BTW, Powder Valley has 8# jugs of Sport Pistol in stock.

[zubrato]

I hope this is useful to someone out there. I stored three blue EW pc bullets and three HF red bullets in enough titegroup to cover it all in a medicine bottle. The Eastwood has been exposed for 2 days longer than the HF red, though they have not changed and have the same tacky feel they had on day 2.

The total is 8 days for Eastwood, 6 days for HF red.

I have included the following pictures to compare appearance of the pc coat, and it’s durability as I drag the base across the paper rather firmly, but not enough to tear the paper.

Wish I had done this test before I powdercoated and loaded about 1500-2k rounds. Live and learn, I encourage others to do the same with your pistol powders.




I assume all powders will do this to some degree as igolfat8 mentioned, but if a powdercoat can withstand TG for a week, you most likely have weeks to months of trouble free blasting with powders that have considerably less “stank” on ‘em, as it were.

I will be keeping more HF red bullets in TG to document their long term performance, and integrity/durability of the PC coating.


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[igolfat8]

Thanks for publishing your results zubrato. It will be helpful if more people do this. This thread isn't meant to attack any one coating supplier but just to raise awareness that some powders will degrade powder coatings over time. I don't think this is a huge concern for folks who shoot fire arms without muzzle devices as most of the atomized lead will blow out the muzzle just fine. However, those of us who use muzzle device you can expect lead deposits and build up in your devices over time

[slide]

I don't shoot compensators. But, if the wind is blowing into your face wouldn't you be getting a nose full of the atomized lead? I know this kinda off subject,sorry.

[EMR]

I hope this is useful to someone out there. I stored three blue EW pc bullets and three HF red bullets in enough titegroup to cover it all in a medicine bottle. The Eastwood has been exposed for 2 days longer than the HF red, though they have not changed and have the same tacky feel they had on day 2.

The total is 8 days for Eastwood, 6 days for HF red.

I have included the following pictures to compare appearance of the pc coat, and it’s durability as I drag the base across the paper rather firmly, but not enough to tear the paper.

Wish I had done this test before I powdercoated and loaded about 1500-2k rounds. Live and learn, I encourage others to do the same with your pistol powders.




I assume all powders will do this to some degree as igolfat8 mentioned, but if a powdercoat can withstand TG for a week, you most likely have weeks to months of trouble free blasting with powders that have considerably less “stank” on ‘em, as it were.

I will be keeping more HF red bullets in TG to document their long term performance, and integrity/durability of the PC coating.


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This is the first time I’ve heard about this. I’m surprised I haven’t seen this here on the forums yet. I’ll have to play with my 231, 2400 and N320 that I have with Smokes powder. I’ve been sitting on a lot of loaded ammo for months now.

Thanks for sharing!

[igolfat8]

I don't shoot compensators. But, if the wind is blowing into your face wouldn't you be getting a nose full of the atomized lead? I know this kinda off subject,sorry.

I don’t think it’s an issue shooting outdoors, espcially with long guns. Pistols could be questionable if your health conscious? It could be an issue indoors too if the ventilation system is a poor performer.

[slide]

My main concern was my 12 year old granddaughter. She loves to shoot revolvers. We shoot outdoors.

[igolfat8]

Sorry but I don’t have any experience with wheel guns. Don’t they have horizontal gas leakage issues between the cylinder and barrel? If so, that would concern me.