Lyman pot nozzle plugged...

[straphanger]

I have an old Lyman pot, don't know the model (10 lb w side appliance plug).

I decided to clean it. Left it assembled and boiled it out 3-4 times.

Now I have disassembled it and found the pour spout is plugged with crud...likely rusty debris. I can't remount the metering pin and handle and get any travel even with the stop fully retracted.

I have let the bottom soak w about a 1/3 cup of peroxide/ vinegar solution, now soaking w straight vinegar. So far nothing liquid is draining through.

?? Is the pour spout hole vertical? If so, what size drill bit should I use to clean it out form the output end? My plan is to try to do the reaming by hand with the drill mounted in a tap wrench to avoid damage.

Helps appreciated! thanks!

[Dale53]

I have been casting bullets for longer than most have been alive. I have, on more than one occasion in the past, had the same problem.

1 - remove the base from the pot.
2 - select a drill bit obviously smaller than you need
3 - run that drill bit, by hand, using a tap wrench, into and through the hole. Yes, the hole is straight through
4- then, run selectively larger bits until you feel and see that you are enlarging the original hole. If you are careful,
it is a relatively easy job

My brother-in-law, required some .58 caliber musket minie balls. The original hole would not flow enough metal, fast enough, to get good bullets. So, I enlarged the original hole. It worked just as I had hoped. And-d-d, when I properly adjusted the pour spout "plug", it could be adjusted for lesser bullets without issue.

In fact, ever since, I have left my adjustment nut loose, so I can adjust as the metal level in the pot drops without the use of tools. This is a seriously good tip.

I also have a torch sitting on the floor next to my casting station for those times I get a "frozen" spout. A minute or so of flame onto the spout and I am again "good to go" without issue.

I replaced my 11 lb. Lyman bottom pour pot many years ago with a pair of RCBS 22 lb. pots but still have a warm feeling for my original Lyman bottom pour. It ran a LOT of bullets for me over the years (tens of thousands...)

Dale53

[Walter Laich]

I also have a torch sitting on the floor next to my casting station for those times I get a "frozen" spout. A minute or so of flame onto the spout and I am again "good to go" without issue.
Dale53

mine torch usually takes 5-10 seconds max to warm to casting themp.

good idea to adjust flow as lead level changes. Just remember when you refill that you should slow the flow back to 'full pot' setting or you get way too much lead coming out

[ShooterAZ]

Fortunately I have never had to use a drill bit. I have used a small torch and a paper clip to open the spout. I try to use a clean alloy to prevent it from happening, but inevitably something will get clogged...bits of carbon, etc.

[straphanger]

Got it done...btw the tap handle wouldn't work, collet was too big for the drill bit. So I just took a chance and chucked it up in a regular drill and went slow. Used a 0.67 drill which is undersize, but it broke through the rust crud left from the cleaning with no problem. Getting the remaining crud cleaned out of the well at the bottom of the pot was a pain. Used a bronze cleaning brush and a section of an M16 clng rod with a patch loop to get the crud out without flushing it thru the nozzle. Thanks for the help.

[country gent]

I have used a set of torch cleaning files to clean the spouts on pots. These work pretty good and come in various sizes in the set. A little pointer when you have a drill motor go bad pull the chuck off and keep the key. these make a nice "handle" for when you want to use a drill by hand.