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Thread: Parts, Parts, Interchangeable Parts

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Parts, Parts, Interchangeable Parts

    I was working on the CVA Frontier rifle I picked up a while back. Had it apart to refinish the stock and decided to compare the lock with a Traditions Kentucky pistol that is in my collection. Sun of a gun, the cap locks are interchangeable which was a bit of surprise. Next thing I know I'm pulling a flintlock off a second Traditions pistol just because I had to scratch an itch and was a little bored on a rainy day and found that the Traditions pistol flintlock is pretty much a bolt-on replacement also. Humm that means I could turn the CVA Frontier caplock rifle into a flinter by just swapping the locks and replacing the nipple bolster with a vent liner as long as everything lines up. For what I paid for the rifle it's almost worth giving it a try.
    Don't think I'm going to do it but it does sound like a fun and easy conversion. I would have to part out my flinter pistol to do it or convert the pistol into a caplock which I already have. Just some thoughts on a rainy day.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Years back pretty much before the internet was around or just getting started, I converted a CVA Kentucky rifle from Cap to flint. I ordered a Traditions lock for a replacement and it was pretty much drop in. Back then there were fewer BP guns and the same company made Both CVA and Traditions and many other companies imported them under their name. You can probably get a lock off of Ebay or go o Deer Creek who now sells replacement parts for CVA who no longer sells the side locks. Keep in mind some of the older flint "locks" were hit and miss as far as quality goes but the locks can be worked on or improved or you might find a better lock for a little money more that can be made to fit. Years back I also had a Frontier carbine that I put together from a kit. Wish I still had it. It shot very well with both RBs and Lee REALs.

    Once you convert to flint though, you probably can't go back. The drum on CVAs were not made to be removed and it would be very difficult to replace and get it lined up properly. They have a patient Breech.
    Aim small, miss small!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    As I said before I'm not planning to do the conversion. I was just mix and matching parts on a rainy day along with a bit of dreaming and though it would be cool if the right parts came my way. I know what a PIA a CVA drum can be to work with, already went through it with a parts Hawkins I picked up a few years ago.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by mooman76 View Post
    Years back pretty much before the internet was around or just getting started, I converted a CVA Kentucky rifle from Cap to flint. I ordered a Traditions lock for a replacement and it was pretty much drop in. Back then there were fewer BP guns and the same company made Both CVA and Traditions and many other companies imported them under their name. You can probably get a lock off of Ebay or go o Deer Creek who now sells replacement parts for CVA who no longer sells the side locks. Keep in mind some of the older flint "locks" were hit and miss as far as quality goes but the locks can be worked on or improved or you might find a better lock for a little money more that can be made to fit. Years back I also had a Frontier carbine that I put together from a kit. Wish I still had it. It shot very well with both RBs and Lee REALs.

    Once you convert to flint though, you probably can't go back. The drum on CVAs were not made to be removed and it would be very difficult to replace and get it lined up properly. They have a patient Breech.
    Dunno bout that - I have had the nipple drum out of several CVA barrels - these were older vintage (1987-88) to convert to flint - put a couple back - no hassles - you need an injector spanner that just fits the drum neat - leave the nipple screwed in tight - use the slot in the spanner to slip over the projecting nipple - and the nipple becomes leverage /grip to turn the drum out - DO NOT DISTURB THE BREECH PLUG AT ALL - the nipple drum is screwed into the breech plug - if you move the plug the threads will never match again - so then you make a touch hole liner that screws in and replaces the drum - Dikar / CVA flintlocks work - frizzen is a bit soft as is the frizzen spring - if you want a good lock - L & R makes a CVA replacement - some fellers just saw the nipple drum off flush and tap a touch hole liner in - that is truly a one way trip - and makes for noticeably slower ignition as well
    Joe
    Last edited by indian joe; 04-10-2018 at 09:52 PM.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eddie2002 View Post
    As I said before I'm not planning to do the conversion. I was just mix and matching parts on a rainy day along with a bit of dreaming and though it would be cool if the right parts came my way. I know what a PIA a CVA drum can be to work with, already went through it with a parts Hawkins I picked up a few years ago.
    Eddie borrow the right size injector spanner off a diesel shop and this gets EASY - the drum is a metric thread might complicate things for you fellers - I would put never seize on the drum threads once I got it out - helps align it properly for hammer strike later.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I'm going to leave it a caplock for now, the refinish came out nice enough so I'm leaving it alone. I stole the rifle, paid a whole $55.00 for it at a pawn shop and it matches my CVA Hawkins now that it has been refinished. Doing the conversion would be fun along with ending up with a cool little semi custom but don't want to spring for a L+R lock right now. Thanks for all the great ideas.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    [QUOTE=Eddie2002;4343236]I'm going to leave it a caplock for now, the refinish came out nice enough so I'm leaving it alone. I stole the rifle, paid a whole $55.00 for it at a pawn shop and it matches my CVA Hawkins now that it has been refinished. Doing the conversion would be fun along with ending up with a cool little semi custom but

    don't want to spring for a L+R lock right now.

    yeah me too! still shooting my little Dikar lock - have drooled over the L&R catalog numerous times - but mine works ok (won a major event with it over the easter weekend shootin against blokes with getz barrels and all the fancy gear - offhand is a great leveller !) had to replace the frizzen spring on my lock last year after many moons of shooting (had one in the parts kit that fit with some fiddling) and the frizzen has always needed some work - too soft the experts tell me - I grind the burrs out of it with the dremel before a shoot and its ok - I reckon you would be fine with that lock off youre pistol if ever you decide to do it (cabin fever might get ya next winter huh)
    cheers
    Joe

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    My "competition" shooter is the CVA Hawkins I picked up at a gun show for $75.00. Just about anything that could be wrong with it was which is why I got it so cheap. It shoots well enough for me now that I gave it a once over and I get a kick out of scoring close to some of the higher priced front stuffers. Still come in on the bottom half of the field but am getting closer to the top. LOL

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check