Enlighten me on the pricing of used S&W

[megasupermagnum]

I've been looking for a nice used S&W model 57. I've really come to like the 41 mag, and after trying a handful, the S&W blew me away. I never did get my hands on a Ruger Redhawk. Am I missing something, or are the older guns that much nicer than brand new? I could walk out the door with a brand new model 57 for just under $900, yet old models, even those with imperfections are listed up around $1200, $1500, sometimes higher. I'm genuinely curious where these prices are coming from, or are these just price gougers?

[RKJ]

From what I've seen, heard and read from various forums, there are a lot of S&W people that do not like the trigger lock and the M&M material the company is using for hammers and other small parts. Myself I don't like the new barrel & shroud setup they've got on some models. I've got a 25-7 with the trigger lock and love it.

[megasupermagnum]

I'm not sure what you mean by m&m hammer, they look the same as the old ones to me. I've never heard of any problems, but that doesn't mean much. I've heard plenty about the internal locks. I'm willing to get over it, but mine would be eliminated the minute the gun came home. I've seen plugs for the holes, then it wouldn't bother me one bit. It seems smith's hold their value quite well, but I still wouldn't pay over $700 used when I can buy brand new for $900. The 57, being of the classics, seems to look identical on the outside, plus the lock. There isn't any other differences I need to be aware of from a pre-lock model?

[jcren]

That got auto corrected from MIM, or metal injection molding. Kinda like molded plastic but in liquid metal. Finished part lacks the grain orientation of a forged part, but can be molded very close to final dimension which saves on machining cost.

[FergusonTO35]

I put some rounds through my 637-2 this afternoon, love that little revolver. I really don't see how an older one would be an improvement for my purposes. A genuine bargain at well under $400.00 too. The lock can be permanently deactivated by filing off the stud on the inside of it that blocks the hammer. On my 637, I also polished off the word "LOCKED" so as not to suggest it is still functional.

[Catshooter]

Just like for Colt, there are quite few who collect S&W. Supply and demand.


Cat

[megasupermagnum]

Just like for Colt, there are quite few who collect S&W. Supply and demand.


Cat

I can understand an 1800's colt, but a 1980/90's S&W being considerably more than new? At least to me, a cast hammer, and easily deleted internal lock is no excuse for that. I guess I get the deal, let the collectors collect.

[samari46]

Back in the 1980's S&W made both the 24-3 series and 624 series of N framed revolvers in 44 special. Barrels ranged from 3",4" and 6.5" in both series. I have the 3" & 4" in the 24-3 series (blued) and 6.5" in the 624 series (stainless steel) after that S&W didn't make any 44 special revolvers on the N frame. Later they came out with I think were the 296 and 396 revolvers in 44 special. The N framed revolvers regardless of 24-3 or 624 do command a premium when found today. Not having seen the smaller 296 or 396 revolvers cannot comment on wether or not these do sell at premium prices or if they are still made today. Having shot all my 44 specials can say that they are fun to shoot and don't beat you up like a 44 magnum. Since getting my 44 specials my 44 mag Redhawk just sits in the safe. Frank

[osteodoc08]

S&W purists want the pinned barrel and recessed cylinders along with the target hammer, trigger, sights.

I have a few older Smiths including an S aerial numbered 4” M57. It’s quality, shootability, accuracy are the same on my newer Smith revolvers. YMMV.

Given the option, I’ll take a no dash 57 for pure nostalgia.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I've owned a couple newer S&W revolvers. I won't buy another one. Besides the Mim parts (not that big deal to me) and the Lock (not that big deal to me), they don't have the 'feel' of the older guns, Most of the new ones I've handled have poor fitting Grips. One day (4 years ago), when I was visiting with a Gander Mountain salesperson, who I specifically asked for a firearms specialist, I ask him what's the deal with this new CNC cut grips, they all fit poorly? He said he hadn't anything about it. I asked to see a nice new blued mod 57...Grips were loose. he was a bit embarrassed, he takes it in the back (to tighten the grips?) comes back out, he says the screw was loose, I grip the gun and the barrel, Grip moves...He takes it back and asks if there is anything else I'd like to see. I ask about the nice new blued model 29. Grips were loose...He and I play the same game. He wasn't happy...but was probably relieved when I left the store.

OK, back to my guns. I swapped for a 6" blued Model 29 about 6 years ago. It seemed fine when I bought it, but when shooting it, I just didn't like the feel...and it had loose grips. This is the first I had come across that, and didn't know what to look for when I inspected it before the swap. I would shim them, they'd work loose after a box of hot ammo. I sold that gun. Some time since then, I swapped for a new Model 625JM Guess what loose grips, trigger is not what I'd expect from a JM gun...but it's not a PC, so I guess it is what it is.

I have a few old S&W's. One is a nice 6" Mod 57 P&R,TT&TH. I wouldn't sell it for under $1200.

I wish you the best of luck, if you buy one of those new $900 Model 57, maybe you'll have better luck than me?

[Drm50]

The 24-25-27-29-57 in a hi condition shooter are $900-$1000, if you are willing to settle for some
blue wear and some minor dings & aftermarket grips, $700-$900. You don't see many cheaper in
N frame unless it's a 28. The dash number after model number can add collector value from P&Rs
foreward. Every dash number represents a engineering change, which unfortunately meant dropped machine work or some other cost cutter. Each model has its own progression and there
isn't much difference in durability or accuracy in the first few dashes past P&R for shooting purposes. There is a big difference in the smoothness of the older Ns made with milled parts. To
me I'll pay the $900 for a older model in top shape before I'd buy a new one. The older models
will increase in price, the new ones not so much. The other thing that affects price is barrel length.
The 4" and shorter barrels bring premium, most are 6-61/2" that's what average price is based on.
The 83/8" will bring a little more than 6", and 5" and odd lengths made in short runs bring more.
NIBs are bringing big bucks in the older models, with box,docs & tools.

[megasupermagnum]

The gun that I liked so much was my dads 57-2, 6" barrel, not pinned or recessed cylinders. The new gun seems to be a copy, it still boasts a target style wide trigger, even the sights seem identical. Loose grips would be a deal breaker. The trigger was another thing that really impressed me, it wouldn't be good if the new ones are not as nice. I want a used model, but I'm not sure I can justify paying that much more than brand new for a used gun. I have yet to see a used one at $900. I've been looking for a couple months, never seen one in a gun shop, only online. Even guns with considerable holster wear, one even had rust, and they still ask $1200. That is just baffling to me. The model 57 is nice, but it's not that nice. I could just save up a little more, and get a custom GP100 in 41 mag. Now that would be cool.

Is the redhawk comparable? I've always preferred Ruger's myself, but never have got a chance to try the redhawk. It seems I can find them for $700, which I would feel more comfortable paying.

[Drm50]

Again there is a big difference in Rugers over the years. Besides a little heavier I would
say they are about even with new production S&Ws. Rugers will hold up better than
S&Ws especially with magnum loads, they are built like a tank.

[megasupermagnum]

What I mean is, is a redhawk relatively comparable to an N-frame, or is it a whole different animal. I'd guess the redhawk is somewhat bigger, but the ones I've seen are quite nice looking. Way sleeker than the super redhawk. I would rather do a trigger job on a $700 redhawk, than hope for the best with an old S&W. I'm looking for a shooter, not a collector piece, and $700 would be a heck of a lot easier to stomach than $1200+.

[6bg6ga]

I'll be blunt here. If you don't like the price then don't complain and don't buy it. Some people and some dealers seem to think the older S&W without the Hillary hole command higher prices. I have both and both are capable of 2lb trigger pulls easily on single action which is what I shoot. I've been to shops with the non-hillary hole guns and the owners seem to feel they are worth more and I simply tell them it won't be from me and walk on.

I have a super red hawk and I find it to be inferior to my S&W 629-3. Both out of the box the S&W has a superior trigger pull and smoother action and again my opinion here based on my trigger pull gauges. On the other side the Ruger Super Red Hawk will take more punishment than what I would probably give my 629-3 or my 629-6 S&W guns.

[Petrol & Powder]

The world of S&W revolvers is huge and the market is complex. However, any item for sale is ultimately only worth what someone will pay for it. Asking prices are not an accurate yardstick of what something is worth, actual selling prices are a bit closer to real value.

If you're a S&W collector, things like pinned barrels, recessed chambers, rare barrel lengths and dash numbers may be important to you. If you're just looking for a good revolver, those things become less important.

On top of all of that, there are a LOT of sellers that will take advantage of uninformed buyers. I recently saw a Model 10-8 that was being presented as a rare collectable heavy barrel version of the Model 10 (all dash 8 model 10's have heavy barrels). The gun was in excellent shape but the only thing unusual about it was the obscenely high price.

My advice - Educate yourself. Learn everything you can about what you are seeking (production dates, production totals, dash numbers, factory barrel lengths and finishes, etc.) Decide what you want (collector's gun, shooter, etc. ) Decide what you are willing to pay for the EXACT gun you want. Set aside the cash for that exact gun and do not spend that cash for something that's "close" to what you want because it is in front of you.

[FergusonTO35]

For my purposes, newer and not collectible usually works better. My 637 has alot of the gray finish worn off the frame from holster wear. Also, I enlarged the rear sight notch a bit to make it easier to see. It is a working gun and the only measure of value to me is how well it works, not how much I could sell it for.

[contender1]

A lot of good info above concerning these guns. Basically, older S&W's command premiums, while newer ones don't. Due to differences in how they were made.

Now, you made mention of the Ruger Redhawk, as compared to the S&W. Totally two different designs. The S&W has a side plate to access the internals, while the Ruger has a solid frame. The internals come out the bottom of the frame. And the design of how the lockwork is built for those two is also different. As such, most folks find the S&W design to feel smoother & all out of the box,, all while acknowledging that the Ruger is a stronger gun. Kinda comparing apples & oranges here. Both have their pluses & minuses.
From your posts,,, you desire a shooter & user. And money is an issue you are using as a yardstick to get you a shooter. No problem with that. I'd suggest you spend the money on a Ruger Redhawk, (it's cheaper) and then spend a little getting a good action job done by a reputable gunsmith that specializes in Ruger DA's, and you will find you will have a gun that will outlast you if you care for it. You have already mentioned you prefer Rugers, and as an owner of several myself, as well as several older S&W's,, I'd say you will be quite satisfied with a Redhawk.

[Dpmsman]

I have to agree with Jon B in Glencoe the fit and finish on the newer Smiths are not even close to what the old ones are. It seems like you have to get a performance center to get what the old Smith's were. I have a 625 JM model and a 632 in 327 Federal and both have fitment issues. The 632's Barrel is canted from being over tightened, it shoots fine but looks bad. The 625 has a large gap between the crane and the frame. In my opinion all CNC Machining has done is allowed gun companies to kick out guns faster, not better. All this aside I think a person has to decide what they really want. Do you want and older collector model? Does fit and finish matter that much to you? If this is a yes then I would take my time save up the money and find what you really want. If you settle for something else that's what you'll be doing settling. The only buyer's remorse I've ever had when buying a gun has been when I settled for something less than what I wanted. Good luck! Check out some gun shows just because they might have a high price on a gun doesn't always mean that they won't bargain once the cash is in front of them.

[Drm50]

I have a good many S&W revolvers, only 9 Rugers. What I have noticed the last few months is the
stalling in S&W market. The prices on shooters has reached the top. Prices had been constantly
going up. Dealers were playing this like the stock market. We are now at the place they are asking
$1200 for the gun they paid $900-$1000. They are not selling. They had been use to flipping guns
for $100-$200 and market has reached the bubble. The guns I'm talking about are shooters not
collectors items. I have three m57s, 2 are 57-1s and are not P&R, there is no difference between
them and my m57 from any practical stand point. I'm a shooter & hunter not a collector and found
out a long time ago that S&Ws were a lot easier to shoot than most revolvers, with the exception
of top of the line Colts. Im not interested in guns I can't shoot but having a good bit of money in
my hoarde I don't want to buy guns that will be worth less than I paid for them. Also I don't want
to buy a gun and pay to have it tuned and end up with as much in it as a good S&W. If you only
have a few guns this may not be a consideration. Depending on what you are going to use the gun
for is important too. S&Ws will not hold up firing hundreds of full power magnum loads, Ruger will.
I have had several newer S&Ws ,all stainless steel and I'm not crazy about them. The lock means
nothing to me. If it bothers you, you can get a plug to replace it. They are still out of the box
slicker than Rugers. One of these can be found used more reasonable than a 57.