The 105mm (4.1") barrel length is needed for "restricted" firearms suitable for sport target shooting to comply with the law in Canada. If the barrel length were less than that, it would then fall into the "prohibited" class.
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The 105mm (4.1") barrel length is needed for "restricted" firearms suitable for sport target shooting to comply with the law in Canada. If the barrel length were less than that, it would then fall into the "prohibited" class.
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In my part of West Texas, I have not seen a M57/657 for less than $1K in a long time. I recently sold a .41 Redhawk for $650. The Redhawk was a really good shooting gun but I just like the 657 I replaced it with better. No real reason, just aesthetics I think.
I don't live in Canada...Originally Posted by Outpost75
But Ruger doesn't make different barrel lengths for US and Canada... Nor does S&W.
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Some of us don't have rules for what barrel length you like; Do what suits you. I just like 6" bbl's for myself; Longer sight radius = more accuracy. YMMV tho. It helps that I'm a big guy so even an 8" bbl isn't "long" compared to me :P (Friend who worked at the LGS years ago bought an HK 94 and was commenting that it looked pistol-like when I held it up like one. I chuckled)
Interesting info, I wanted to ask, if I do get a newer S&W, who sells the lock hole covers? (No kids here, if my pets develop opposable thumbs I'm in BIG trouble but it hasn't happened yet.)
So I don't buy models that fit my needs, it is really simple. OTH Taurus does.
Good luck with your Taurus. Lots of QA issues...
I won't own one, don't know any retired LE who do or any reputable gunsmiths who will work on one.
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
S&W 57 was my first pistol. Had it for 38 years. Still love it.
Ditto that! I owned 1 and that was enough. For the life of me, I cant remember if it was a 4.1 or a 4", lol.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
I guess I'm just lucky then. The Taurus Tracker 627 revolver I own has had several thousand rounds through it with no issues. It even shoots cast well.
I also have a PT92 that has about 700 rounds through it with no issues.
I haven't tried the other versions so can't remark about them.
Just to finish, I did end up buying a brand new S&W model 57, $825 out the door, taxes and everything. I have to say, I am a little disappointed, but so far I feel better than if I had spent $1200+ on a used gun. The blueing is nice enough, no complaints there. There are some strange marks on the muzzle, like it was scratched while handling, but the crown seems ok. The grips fit tight, but the design is garbage. They are about 1" wide, they won't do much for recoil. I already have a set of Altamont bateleur grips on the way. As far as fit and finish goes, my biggest complaint is the stamping on the right side. It says "Made in USA, Smith and Wesson, Springfield, MA" or something like that. I'm not sure if it's a stamp or engraving, but one side is significantly deeper than the other side. Purely cosmetic, but a very obvious one. So far the muzzle scratches bother me more, but they can be fixed with a little cold blue.
I didn't expect a great trigger, but wow, this thing is horrible! Double action is acceptable, but stacks quite a bit. Single action is unacceptable. I have no pull gauge, but it would be at home on a shotgun. Probably about 5 pounds, and very creepy. It is pretty consistent though. Pull, tick (you can feel not hear), pull, tick, pull, click (hammer falls)! I have not had the gun apart yet, I'm going to make sure the thing works before doing any mods.
I slugged the bore, but I'm never too confident on 5 groove barrels. Using a strip of aluminum to wrap the bullet, and subtracting the thickness, I get a groove of about .408". Kind of odd, being as 41 mags are usually about as consistent as you get. I'm not sure I'd trust that 100%, as that slug is still a snug fit in the throats, which I used pin gauges to determine were .410". A .411" bullet will not go through unless I really force it, but a .410 J word fits perfect. Not a big deal, worst case I lap the throats to .411". I think a ball or egg sinker that I won't have to pound through so much might give a more accurate reading than the bullet I used.
Accuracy is yet to be seen, as I am going to have to size my bullets down to .410" first.
Overall so far, I'm reasonably happy. I don't think it's worth the price I paid, but the used guns certainly are not worth it either, except to collectors. I did find 2 used model 57's I came close to buying, and I'm glad I didn't now. After having the trigger fixed, I bet I'll have a nice shooting gun, that is lighter, more compact, and WAY nicer on the eyes than the Ruger SuperRedhawk. I never did shoot a Redhawk, but have to think if Ruger offered a blued 5.5" barrel Redhawk, I would buy one.
A brand new 57? What is the model number and dash number? A brand new 57 or 57-1 around
here with box, docs, and tools would be north of $1200 for sure.
It is a brand new 57-6, straight off the production line. I went and looked at a 57 no dash. It was a nice gun, but they guy was asking $1600, and I couldn't talk him down at all, even with a trade. The other was in a gun shop, I got a call that a gun I'd like came in. It was a 57-2, it had rubber grips, holster wear, there was even a spot of rust by the trigger guard. After talking to the owner, he came down from $1200 to $1100. I really thought about it, but now I'm glad I did not. In a real world, that would be a $500 gun. I just don't understand Smith and Wesson prices, and probably never will.
I got the new grips on, and don't like them too much. It seems finger groove grips always want to put your hand too low. I'm going to try the Herrett "Jordan Trooper" next.
The problem with grips that have finger grooves is that the grooves are either perfectly located or they are not.
The closest I've ever come to being happy with full sized finger groove grips was with the S&W factory combat grips.
The Herrett "Jordan Trooper" grips will probably work for you.
I agree, I have a number of fingered rubber grips that fit well, especially on my SP101. I don't think I've ever found wood ones that fit though. I shot it this weekend, and lo and behold, the trigger improved more than imaginable. The double action lightened up some, and the single action went from the worst handgun trigger I have by far, to one that is not too bad. It has got to be close to half the pull weight, and a lot of the creep is gone. I shot about 40 single action, and 40 double action. I was only shooting offhand to get familiar with the gun, but the accuracy seems to be better than I am. This weekend I'll try some groups.
Shoot a few hundred rounds of jacketed bullets through it before starting to shoot cast. It will smooth things out in barrel.Mine shoots great and trigger will smooth out with time and lube.
Arsenal moulds makes a great Keith bullet mould in 41. I have been working some loads up for mine with that bullet. With jacketed bullets, the hornady xtp shoots great with 2400 powder even with less than full power loads. Of course 2400 seems to produce accurate loads in all the magnum calibers. As a side note, Smith’s from all generations will have minor cosmetic imperfections as I have many , especially the 1980s vintage. Do not worry about that, you got a strong shooter that I doubt you will ever wear out and a lifetime warranty.
I have about 300 old Remington 210 gr jacketed soft points I'll probably burn up in this gun. That should smooth things out. I've been shooting a SWC bullet from GT bullets, that I think is a NOE mold, 228 grains, over 13 grains of Bluedot for 1200fps. For whatever reason, I never did find a 41 caliber mold that I found worth buying. I've got a drawing of exactly what I want, but have yet to hear back from any company about producing it. I may post it up for a possible group buy. It is basically the NOE 412459 mold with a little bigger meplat (.28") and a little bigger front driving band. If nothing else, I'll just settle for a slightly less than square front shoulder and buy from Accurate.
Arsenal molds will make a custom mold for you.
They made a 200gr SWC for me...they do excellent work.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...lds&highlight=
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“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
I collected S&W for a number of years and there are several niches to explore. I bought at the 95% and better price point, now I'm trying to get rid of many of them before my wife has to give them away... The hi-grade collector guns are pricey but the shooters with holster wear on the barrel, obvious wear on the cylinder and grips shouldn't cost any more than other used guns- although may dealers try to get a premium just for the S&W name. A lot of the pricing depends on the era they were produced and who owned the company at the time often equates to quality of those guns- many stay away from the 70's and 80's guns due to various problems- that is why you need to know the various details. Pre-57 guns are a whole different category and are often considered some of the best modern models.
There are a number of problems you have to watch out for such as 'push-off' (bubba trigger job) and a sprung yoke (crane bent from flipping the cylinder closed as seen on TV) and then there is the little burr on the top of the side plate where someone opened it up incorrectly- know these things and you will stay away from a lot of overpriced problem guns...
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| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
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