Recoil pad for 1953 760 gamemaster

[LAKEMASTER]

I'm a little confused on buying a sand-to-fit recoil pad for my old rifle.

I find a few on eBay that claim to be grind to fit but they don't look right. So I'm here looking for guidance

I'd also be open to buying one if anyone has one laying around

[hp246]

I'd check Brownells.

[Texas by God]

I like Hogue and Pach. Old English but if the butt is concave it makes things harder. Those old aluminum buttplates hurt, don't they?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[LAKEMASTER]

I like Hogue and Pach. Old English but if the butt is concave it makes things harder. Those old aluminum buttplates hurt, don't they?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

The gun was fitted with a pad back in the 50s or 60s.

It was completely collapsed by the time I started shooting it 16 years ago.

It was a slip over sleeve I bought at Walmart, I'm just tired of always moving it back straight

[pietro]

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I would suggest removing whatever's currently mounted on the butt end, then measure the actual wood butt end (height/width).

Once you have the measurements, you can buy any pad you like that's a tad bigger than your measurements and fit it.



TIPS:

* To avoid the Bubba syndrome, buy a pad that's long enough that the bottom end of the pad protrudes far enough past the toe of the buttstock to continue the bottom line of the stock onto the new pad during grinding.

* Sometimes the new pad's mounting holes won't align with the existing screw holes in the stock - if so, just use one of the existing holes & fill the other, mis-aligned, hole tightly with wooden toothpicks dipped in wood glue, then drill a new pilot hole where the pad's other hole falls.

* After the replacement pad's mounted, wrap the buttstock end with a double layer of automotive masking tape, right up to & against the pad base, to act as an early warning while grinding the pad down to the stock config (if/when the top layer of tape gets scuffed, STOP, and finish by hand).



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