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Thread: Ovideo Mauser

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    Ovideo Mauser

    How are these actions as opposed to other 93 Mausers?

    A guy at a local gun show this afternoon had one that had been decently sporterized, reasonably nice walnut stock, Fajen or Bishop I think, some kind of civilian sights (open, I'll have to have something else) and the bore looked good. Looked to me if it had a peep sight on it, would be a handy rifle for the woods.

    It was a cheap asking price and pretty sure tomorrow afternoon, I could have it for cheaper. I recently started playing around with a better sporterized 93 Mauser in 7x57 and really like it. As a result, I am beginning to binge load 7x57, gathered a lot of brass, etc, need to cast a bunch more bullets. I'd like to have that other rifle if it's cheap enough and if the actions are sound enough. I've heard the Spanish ones aren't up to par, is that true?

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    Oviedo's are well made but have a reputation for soft steel. The primary thing you need to inspect for is excessive headspace caused by locking lug setback. Used within reasonable pressure limitations, they can last night forever. I'm not slamming Oviedo's. Really, every old Mauser should be checked for locking lug setback and headspace, even the '98's.

    Also all '93 Mausers are old and have been used with corrosive ammo, and many have cleaning damage, which may not be obvious but usually manifests itself in a cone-shaped muzzle the last several inches, and/or an overly rounded crown. This can be subtle but always results in piss-poor accuracy.
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

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    The bore in this one looked good. I hardly ever load jacketed bullets or full power loads in much of anything anymore, and I fully plan to deer hunt with cast in the 7x57 eventually. This would be a really neat woods rifle if it will shoot reasonably well. I'm tempted to go back tomorrow and do some wheeling and dealing on this, though I need another project rifle like a hole in my head.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HangFireW8 View Post
    Oviedo's are well made but have a reputation for soft steel. The primary thing you need to inspect for is excessive headspace caused by locking lug setback. Used within reasonable pressure limitations, they can last night forever. I'm not slamming Oviedo's. Really, every old Mauser should be checked for locking lug setback and headspace, even the '98's.

    Also all '93 Mausers are old and have been used with corrosive ammo, and many have cleaning damage, which may not be obvious but usually manifests itself in a cone-shaped muzzle the last several inches, and/or an overly rounded crown. This can be subtle but always results in piss-poor accuracy.
    HangFireW8 - your response has me to thinking. I have a Hotckiss that chamber casted perfectly, slugged about 0.015" over. The rifle is in beautiful condition, headspace is well within tolerance - but is horribly inaccurate. Is there any sort of diagnostic test that can be easily performed?
    Thank you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cwtebay View Post
    HangFireW8 - your response has me to thinking. I have a Hotckiss that chamber casted perfectly, slugged about 0.015" over. The rifle is in beautiful condition, headspace is well within tolerance - but is horribly inaccurate. Is there any sort of diagnostic test that can be easily performed?
    Sure. For cone shaped bore, slug the muzzle to different depths, 1", 2", 3", etc. See if they come out the same, or the shallower depths are larger.

    For the crown, examine with the best magnifier you have, if the rifling ends indistinctly or at different depths, it needs to be recrowned.
    Last edited by HangFireW8; 04-08-2018 at 01:07 AM.
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HangFireW8 View Post
    Sure. Slug the muzzle to different depths, 1", 2", 3", etc. See if they come out the same, or the shallower depths are larger.
    I think I missed my mark on the explanation. I have slugged both ends and they match. I was thinking you were speaking of cleaning rod wobble causing damage mid - bore. I just reslugged it after posting back, it does seem like there is less tension on my slug around 5" in if I try to push it through.
    Thank you for the reply!

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    Well yes, cleaning rod wear can happen anywhere in the bore, it just usually happens to be worse at either end.

    If you have a bore that changes diameters more than once, accuracy might be found with jacketed flat-base bullets of the proper diameter.

    Did you have a chance to examine the crown?
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

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    Map55b is the guy to talk to about Oveido Mausers. I like my 1916 but it's certainly not a Swede or DWM panache-wise.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HangFireW8 View Post
    Well yes, cleaning rod wear can happen anywhere in the bore, it just usually happens to be worse at either end.

    If you have a bore that changes diameters more than once, accuracy might be found with jacketed flat-base bullets of the proper diameter.

    Did you have a chance to examine the crown?
    That's funny that you say that about the bullets. I was loading light 45 acp bullets from Barry's with reasonable accuracy. It was recommended to me that I should be using cast with the rifle - and that's when things started to go south and when I slugged the bore, cast the chamber, etc. So between the time you posted and now I loaded 5 rounds with 230 gr round nose bullets and attained a 3 shot group that I can nearly cover with my hand. I appreciate your advice!
    As to the crown - it looks like a 135 year old crown that has been cleaned A LOT. It was a Navy model so I'm sure that the salt water didn't help too much, but I have worse in my collection.

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    You're welcome.

    I'm curious if the OP has picked up that Oviedo?
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

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    I did. Got it cheap. Turns out when I got it home it's an 8mm, not a problem really, but the bore is a lot worse than I thought taking a quick look in bad light. No big deal as I don't have much in it, just gotta decide what I want to do with it.

    I think I still have a short, Swedish Mauser barrel around somewhere, are the threads the same?

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    Yes, the threads on a Swedish M96 barrel should be the same.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

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    Pics, please?

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    Yeah, I need to post some.

    Looking at it, I'm not comepletely sure it's the original military barrel. They sporterizer (is that a word?) put a rear sight on it that has a blocky base that could be concealing a step or maybe not.

    I've heard he won't do military barrels but if JES or someone could bore this to 9.3x57, that would be a neat woods gun.

    I've also heard that the Oviedos aren't good candidates for rebarreling due to the lower quality soft steel. I'm sure no expert on Mausers, so not sure.

    Was really hoping this would be a nice complement to my other 7x57 sporter and it may yet.

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    After soaking and scrubbing the bore all afternoon, there may be hope. It's worn, but may shoot OK. I have some cast bullets for the .32-40, gotta see if I have some brass and then I'll give her a try.

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    Quote Originally Posted by richhodg66 View Post
    After soaking and scrubbing the bore all afternoon, there may be hope. It's worn, but may shoot OK. I have some cast bullets for the .32-40, gotta see if I have some brass and then I'll give her a try.
    If the rifling is strong, there's hope.

    Since there is some doubt as to the barrel, I would slug it and check the rifling twist. I'm not a .318" alarmist, but it's good to know if you're starting with one of those, a nice even .323, or a .3255" Turk barrel.
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

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    The rifling isn't strong, but may be OK. Gonna get out some cerrosafe and do some checking to see. I have some over sized bullets I was planning to use in my .32-40, just need some brass now.

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    I have one that was rebarreled to .270 Win. and given to me in that configuration. I feel like that’s too much pressure for an Oviedo action and factory loads. Apparently it’s a poor choice for cast boolits. If it was a 96 or 98 I would shoot it as is.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

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    Quote Originally Posted by David2011 View Post
    I have one that was rebarreled to .270 Win. and given to me in that configuration. I feel like that’s too much pressure for an Oviedo action and factory loads. Apparently it’s a poor choice for cast boolits. If it was a 96 or 98 I would shoot it as is.
    It should be ok with starting loads jacketed or cast. Maybe restamp the caliber to 30-06 to prevent factory .270s being used. I'm halfway kidding lol. I'm suprised the magazine will hold .270 length.

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    Did a quick cerrosafe casting of the first inch of barrel (muzzle end) this evening, seems to be .325-.326, I used a set of dial calipers, not precise I know, but was in a hurry.

    These .32-40 bullets I have are .330. I didn't cast them, bought from a gun show to try. Not sure what any of my molds cast as all the bullets I have from them at the moment are sized and lubed, but I'm pretty sure they won't cast big enough.

    I'm thinking that 205 grain Lee bullet designed for the 8x56 Austrian may work? Cheap enough to get one and try it I suppose.

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