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Thread: Questions about Re-Barreling Ruger No3 from 223 to .357 Max

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Questions about Re-Barreling Ruger No3 from 223 to .357 Max

    I kicked off my latest project to re-barrel and restore a very rough Ruger No3 that's currently chambered in 6mm-222.

    I wanted something for which i can cast and something that has a case size close to the current chambering, so that there should be minimal work getting the ejector to work.

    I considered 300BO but i've owned a 300BO in the past and wasn't a fan. I thought about .38 Super Automatic which would be a good plinker and something very unique.
    But then the practical side of my brain took over and i decided to go with .357 Max.

    The barrel and reamer have been ordered and the gunsmith scheduled.

    Is there anything i should consider with the rebareling? What would need to be done to the extractor to convert from rimless to rimmed?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    You shouldn't have to do anything to the extractor.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    I cannot add to what you will need to do for the conversion but I can say 357 max is a great choice for a carbine. It is also a great choice for casting. I would be interested to hear how it all turns out.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Sounds like you already ordered the new barrel. .357 Max is a wonderful choice. I can't help but think that the old barrel could have been re-bored by somebody like Bob Hoyt and new chamber cut for the .357 max for less money. Understand, I don't know if it's possible with the required dimensions or what the costs of the new barrel are. Just random thoughts wandering through my pre-coffee brain. Be sure to let us know how it turns out. Good luck. I'm jealous about that #3 in a .357 max.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    The 357 Maximum reamer would probably completely clean up the original 223 Remington chamber after reboring, but it would be close. If I was going to rebore a 223 Rem barrel for a Ruger No. 1, I would choose a cartridge that would be sure to remove all traces of the old chamber, such as the 357 Herrett. I agree that reboring is a good choice for many reasons: less expensive, matches original fore end, usually more accurate than original barrel, preserves original sights, and more I'm sure.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have a like new complete #3 stock set for sale in the classifieds. Pm me if you would like a picture or two.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    JES Reboring specializes in .35 calibers and it would have been under $200 to have them bore and rifle, and rechamber to .357 Max. Too bad your gunsmith didn't recommend this route himself?

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks for the replies so far.

    Re-boring is not an option. I'm in Australia and there is no-one that offers a re-boring service. Plus the current barrel is a stainless replacement that is very thin and does not match the fore end's inletting at all, and it needs a custom scope base which was very poorly done and out of alignment.

    I want to go back to a blued barrel in a factory profile or maybe a 1B or 1V profile so that off-the-shelf scope bases can be used.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harleysboss View Post
    I have a like new complete #3 stock set for sale in the classifieds. Pm me if you would like a picture or two.
    Would you send it to Australia?

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    Not sure about that.. Not sure what kind of regulations we would be up against and shipping would probably be expensive. Where in Australia? I could check on shipping cost. You would have to chip in.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Good caliber choice!!! I have always liked the Ruger single shots. Bought a used one in .25/06 because I got it at a good price and like a fool sold it.
    Don Verna


  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
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    I have a No 3 in 357 max that JES rebored for about $200 and it shoots better than before. It was a 22 hornet reamed to 223 so the twist rate was all wrong unless the bullet weight was 40 grains or less.

    I think you'll be very happy with your build. A thinner than factory barrel profile would be nice and custom wood is always appreciated. I'd recommend some sort of rubber recoil pad. Even with a light kicking round it's worth it. My rifle has a modified factory forend and the forend hangar is tapped for a screw that puts tension on the barrel. The butt stock is factory but I'll be reshaping the comb and installing a recoil pad.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    I've got a few #3s, in my neck of the woods they are bring $800-$1K. I just traded my Marlin 375
    even for #3 in the same. Percentage wise they are more expensive than#1s. The only #3 that I
    was disappointed with was the 22Hornet. I've had 3 of them and wasn't impressed. I wish I had
    kept one around to rebore. My gun smith rebarreled several #3 Hornets for guys who weren't
    satisfied with their accuracy. I have a 223 from 1st year of production that has excellent accuracy,
    My latest is 375 & 45/70 and both good shooters. I did but the stock extensions for all mine, they
    look like black recoil pads and and about 1" to stock length. I like 357max, the only one in rifle
    I have shot was a buddies m24 savage, it's a tack driver at 75 yds and with a scope should be at
    about twice that.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check