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Thread: What screen for mining berms

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    What screen for mining berms

    Guy I kinda know just purchased a property that had the old public range on it. You know the place in the woods everyone would go shoot. Well he told me he is braking ground in a few months for a new house. I asked if I could mine the berm first. He said sure.

    So my question to you guys is what size screens do you use? I am looking to make one and had thought 1/4 inch might be good.

    Any input would be great. Pics even better. THanks
    Stop being blinded by your own ignorance.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Thumbcocker's Avatar
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    1/4" hardware cloth.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    1/4" hardware cloth on a frame of 2 X 4 fastened well has worked for me for several years. The weight involved is a factor in the frame size.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
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    I used a 1/4 inch hardware cloth stapled to a wooden frame with an air powered stapler. I made it 18'' x 24'' any bigger and I found it to be very heavy. I also put thin strips of plywood on the bottom to cover the staples. That way I could slide it back and fourth over 2 wooden sawhorses and let gravity do the work. My berm was sand so most of the dirt/sand fell thru and left me with nothing but bullets and the occasional small rock. I sifted at least 2 tons of lead that way. (Not all at once!)

    Good luck

  5. #5
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    This is my first try, works OK but hasn't seen hard use yet.
    If I did it this way again I would use full-length 1x1 for the side notches

    Next one I'll rip 1/2" off the bottom and forget the 3/4 x 3/4 notch

    material 2x3, 1/4" hardware cloth, gorilla glue hand stapler (1/2 x 9/16 staples) pneumatic 1/4" finish stapler 1 1/4 & 2 staples.
    Cut to length, glue/screw together (make sure to leave room for the cutout when screwing)
    Set table saw @ 3/4 x 3/4 (use push stick be careful with the second cut, the 3/4 x 3/4 wants to fly.
    Hand staple hardware cloth on
    glue and finish staple 3/4 x 3/4 on.






    I'm planning on making a shaker table where 1 end of the screen/tray can lift out and dump onto a chute into a 2-gallon bucket (you won't want a bigger bucket unless your buff/macho/masochistic/or crazy

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I just got done looking in my stash. I only have 1/2 inch. Looks like a trip to the hardware store. Think I will look for a set of handles while I am shopping. Might make it a bit easier to sift.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    I'm using 1/4" expanded metal fastened to the frame of an old card table. Shovel the dirt on top, move around with gloved hands or a 1x4 till all the dirt falls through. (I put a piece of plywood under it so I can shovel it up easier to put back). Then pick out the bullets.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Plenty of good ideas. I will just post a picture of mine. Dont forget handles for the screan. I uses the same screen i used to make my PC bake trays. It came on roll ams had lots.

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  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for all the post guys. I just got back from the hardware store with a small roll of 24"x10' 1/4. Think I am going to go 24"x24" based off the size of the roll. Good snowy day project.
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master

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    you might have problems with screen sag and it may get to heavy if your lucky.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Plate plinker View Post
    you might have problems with screen sag and it may get to heavy if your lucky.
    Good point. Think I will keep it to 18"
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    Just dont fill it too much. You want it beable to swish around. Its good manual labor. I slept good after yesterday.

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  13. #13
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    I use a similar arrangement when I mine the berm at the range I go to. On that pistol range, I can fill a five gallong bucket up real fast. I do most of my shooting on my own place now, and when it comes time to mine it (years from now, not gonna do it until I need to), I'm going to get one of these and line the bed with 1/4" hardware cloth on top of the expanded steel mesh. Then I can just rock it back and forth by rolling it and not have to support any weight.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/mesh-d...gon-62576.html

  14. #14
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    Might want to check out these images of archaeology sifters. They have been doing this sifting thing for a long time so have worked out some basic design
    https://www.google.com/search?q=arch...=1522802424216

    You always have to start from a cold pot if you use water but a cement mixer and water hose can allow for bulk processing. Someone on the forum mentioned it before. But with water in the bullet fragments you can't ever dump them into molten lead without inviting the tinsel fairy. But if you fill an empty and cool pot then bring it up to temperature to melt the water will all be cooked out before you have molten lead.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

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  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    The problem with a cold pot is it takes for ever to get going but once it starts melting, it goes quick. I keep a few inches of molten alloy in the bottom. Then put on a face sheild and heavy glove and slowly sprinkle in the next amount. Pour a few table spoons of oil and light it on fire. It will burn the water off and its not to deep to cause much harm with the proper PPE on. With in no time the dirt, rocks, and jackets are ready to skim. Keep it flaming helps get all the lead out of it. I am not a smart man and so use care and caution with that advice. But if you drain the pot and start empty each time its gonna take you a few days. Using the method i mentioned cautiously will allow you you run a few hundred pounds in a day. Just use some common sense. Takes water at the bottom of a bottom pour pot to cause the tensel visit, lol dont ask how i know, but it involved a lead ladel.

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  16. #16
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    I like that tripod idea. 3 2x4's bolted near the top.
    4 ropes/wires coming down attached to the sifter box and your good to go.
    hang 2-gallon buckets on the 2x4's and carry the screen to the berm. On the return trip, a hand truck would be helpful.
    You could have ropes attached to the legs so they can't splay out.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

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    That archaeology link has lots of good ideas if you really get serious about mining berms. About smelting your finds, starting with a cold pot is good advise. But, it does not have to be cold. Just not molten. I'll leave several inches in the bottom of my pot and turn off the burner long enough for it to become solid but still hot. Then I'll fill it back up. The moisture should burn off long before the lead melts. A lid for your pot adds another level of protection. Time is important to everyone but, burns are serious!

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    Yes, the archeologist designs work well, less fatigue and work quickly. I've seen the ones with wheels in a top frame and stand that go through the sifting like lightning. the only thing that slows you down are stones and leaf litter, twigs. That said, the plant materials all turn to smoke and ash in the smelting pot, probably help with a little fluxing action too. You might be overwhelmed with the volume too, a good problem to have if you are ready for it. Good exercise.....I'm jealous

  19. #19
    Boolit Mold
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    I screen 3/4" road stone through 1/2" hardware cloth for my garden railroad. I lay the screen, 2X3' tapered to 10" on one open end over a wheel borrow and add the rock slowly. Fines all fall through which I want for on top. The bigger stuff goes in another barrow for walk way around the property, etc. Wheel borrow supports the weight. Lot of different way to do it, just have to go with the one that works you you.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    I really need to buy a camera. I made one up. Ripped a 2x6 in half. Total size is 24 1/4" x 19". The extra 1/4 is so I do not get poked by the screen if it was sticking out. Drop some wood glue on and sunk in 4" wood screws. Grabbed the air stapler and shot it down. Then screwed on 7/16 plywood crossing over the joints. Now I am back at my shack looking for some handles in the junk bin. Think I will toss a coat of stain on it since it is raining out.

    Its raining today. Sposta stop around 3pm. How wet is to wet to do this?
    Stop being blinded by your own ignorance.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check