Mauser 93 per the flat on the bottom of the bolt face
Great, 7x57 re-barrel
Last edited by skeettx; 01-01-2019 at 07:46 PM.
I'm going to take a few days really inspecting the receiver carefully before screwing the green mountain barrel on .
Reamer Question
My plan is to rent a finish reamer from www.Reamer Rentals .com to finish the chamber . I would like to get one with the interchangeable pilots to properly fit the bore . But do I need any other measurements such as the neck size of the existing short chamber + does the reamer open up the throat in front of the case neck ? I tried giving them a call but I quickly realized it's New Year's Day and I hope they are enjoying it . I'm shore when I talk to them that they will know exactly what I need to complete this part of my project but I would like to have any information that was needed when I contact them .
Are there any markings at all left on it? Just a normal finish reamer and go and no-go gauges will work fine. It would be nice to know if it's a German or Spanish 93 just for knowing's sake. If the action passes inspection it will make a fine deer rifle.
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And the old barrel will have proof marks, perhaps
Here is all I have been able to figure out about the receiver & bolt so far .
1893-1916
There is a rib on the left side of the receiver .
Bolt face is flat on the bottom , same cut in the receiver .
S# E 26xx .
No thumb cut in receiver .
Oval gas vent in the receiver , lines up with a hole in the flat part of the bolt when closed to vent gas .
There is a small circle on the left side of the receiver that has a cross of sorts in the circle .
That's all the markings I could find except for the # 3 on the bottom of the receiver .
Too bad the Crest was buffed off. But it resembles a 1916 Oviedo. Does it show lug setback?
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That's a very good question .
The receiver shows wear more so on the bottom than the top in the receiver . Wile the bolt lugs show pretty much full contact on the top with 60-70 percent on the bottom when the bolt is closed . So I'm going to leave that can of worms alone for now . I have contacted Blanchard Metal Processing about carburizing , but at this point I'm not going to lap the receiver or lugs to keep it simple for my first attempt .
Do not have it carburized unless you lap the lugs first. If the lugs seats are not set back and are hard, carburizing might not be needed. If the lug seats are setback, then they should be corrected and then carburized/heat treated.
Make sure you strip the bolt of the firing pin and spring. You want the bolt to have no resistance from the parts when you are checking the headspace when you are cutting the chamber. Go slow, use lots of cutting oil and clean the chamber and reamer frequently. One metal chip in the chamber when the reamer is reinserted can cause a groove in the chamber.
I have installed a few of the Green Mountain barrels and they shoot good after they have 50 rounds or so of jacketed down the barrel. I have gone to using boolits with 600 grit lapping compound on them to smooth out the barrel by fire lapping. Usually notice a difference in how the barrel cleans after 5 or 6 down the barrel. I clean after each fire lapping shot.
I just hit the button to rent the reamer + go / no go gage + T handle . So hopefully this weekend I will get to do something . I most certainly appreciate everyone's help and for putting up with my questions .
SR Mausers make nice sporters. This is my Oviedo 1916(93) that I converted to 30-30 Win. You'll note the thumb cut on mine. Someone may chime in yet to identify your 93.
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BEFORE you use that reamer, inspect it under magnification for any nicks, burrs, or chipping on the cutting edges of the flutes!
First set back I ever did I rented a reamer and didn't know enough to check it when it arrived. Left a ring in the shoulder that looked about identical to the datum line. First firing on brass, everything looked OK except for the ring on the shoulder. Second firing, I'd have a primer raised.
Took a bit of head scratching to figure out i needed to add about .015" to my sized case measurement to make up for that **** ring in the shoulder.
I decided to open up the barrel channel while I wait for the reamer to arrive , I got a email Friday that the reamer should arrive on Monday . I am putting it together with a Ramline or its Champion now stock to play with it . The polymer sands out very easy so it only took a few hours on and off .
I have a question about screwing the barrel to the receiver for finale installation . How tight should it be ? Will 80-100 keep it together ? I am planning to use anti-seize on the barrel threads . Does this seem reasonable ?
I use a little never seize and just get it tight. My mental torque wrench hasn't failed me yet. Just a titch more after the barrel shoulder hits the action face.
It's gonna be good- a 7x57 is perfect for deer.
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Ok I got it , snugg it up and just a bit more
I got the package in today with the reamer + pilots, and go / no go gage , + extended T Handle . I ran into a little problem the extended T handle won't work it's cut to fit a square base while the reamer is a half round and half flat base . The reamer base is threaded so I can still work it out , now I am just waiting on the Tap-Magic to get here , hopefully it will be on the late truck .
I'm as jittery as a kid on Christmas eve , the brass is ready , the cast boolits are sitting there ready to go . I just need to know how long the OAL is going to end up .
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |