2 molds 2 results

[Outback32]

I bought a 44 and 357 6 cavity molds. Using the same alloy same temp molds at the same temp. The 44 throws great bullets. The 357 throws good bullets. The 44s release from the mold everything is great with that mold
The 357 is the opposite it won't let go of the bullets. It has a death grip on the bullets. I've cleaned the mold twice I've put toothpaste on a bullet. Nothing is helping

[Walter Laich]

need a bit more info

who made them? assuming both from same company

iron, brass, aluminum?

have you checked them for burrs?

had two Lee 6-cav molds of same bullet design. One drops them easily, other takes a few taps to get all to fall

[gwpercle]

Check for burrs with a Q-tip , the cotton fibers will snag them and show where they are.
After de burring, give the cavities a coat of Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant L512 , it's just the regular dry lubricant...they have a couple other for locks and RV's but I use the L512.
I have a bottle of the 4 oz. liquid and apply it with the Q-Tip , a good even coat. It doesn't contaminate the cavity and acts as a mould release...the boolits want to jump out when opened.

Also it takes three or four casting sessions to season the mould and get it broken in...after break in moulds need nothing except to be totally degreased. I use acetone or brake cleaner to get all the oil out.
Gary

[Outback32]

Sorry I forgot to say they are Lee. I tried the leementing with toothpaste and bullet twice. Didn't help at all

[Grmps]

I'm with Walter, please give us the mold numbers or description so we can see what molds/configurations you are dealing with

[redhawk0]

If you don't find any burrs with a Q-tip as mentioned above...you might want to try either smoking the mold (instructions are included with your mold)...or try a mold release. I use a spray on carbon from Midway. It goes on as an aerosol but the alcohol evaporates and leaves a thin carbon coating behind. It does work very well on my Lee molds.

redhawk

[gwpercle]

Mould release....Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant (L512 )
Just try it once , I swear it works so well it's like magic.
Keeps the sprue plate from rusting too.

[jcren]

Smaller cavity molds need to run a bit hotter also. More aluminum to heat sink vs the amount of heat being applied every pour. LW dry lube works well and use/heat cycles will develope a patina that will fill the pores of the aluminum and make it release much better, so once it is deburred, no more aggressive cleaning/polishing.

[Mica_Hiebert]

I have a noe 360-180 that I have to beat like a red headed step child to get to release, my junky Lee 475-400 drops like a dream, don't even have to tap them they fall right out... I think bigger bullets are just easier to cast.

[RED BEAR]

I have the same problem with two Lee molds one is the 35 cal 200 gr rnfp the other is a 124 gr tc for 9mm. Tried everything used tooth paste cleanser and finally fine lapping compound polishing compound made sure there were no burrs smoked the molds soaked in kroil . the 124 tc is a little better the 200 rnfp is still a bear to try and use. But both are unpleasant to use.

[mehavey]

Outback,

Question on technique: Are you taking advantage of a plastic/rawhide/wooden
mallet to repeatedly tap the (open) mold hinge to release the bullets ?

[John Boy]

I tried the leementing with toothpaste and bullet twice. Didn't help at all

Hold the handles and move them up and down. If they wiggle - tighten the handle bolt. Then hold up to the light to determine there is no daylight between the mold halves. Out of alignment mold halves from loose handle is usually a major reason why bullets are not released from the mold

[Walter Laich]

I got some 600 grit valve grinding compound

opened the sprue plate put a 3/4" nut over each hole (might not be able to because of distance between cavities) and poured through the nut into the cavity.

this gave me a bullet with a nut attached to bottom

put some 600 grit compound on the bullet and place back in mold (may not be able to fully close right away) and with wrench or socket turn it while closing mold.

You can put sideways pressure on the bullet to work on each side and seam of the cavity. I usually do two or three before cleaning mold and trying to cast bullets, for real, again.

If you use Kroil oil to clean the cavities you won't have to worry about oil contamination but you will have to bring the temp up again.

the nut/bullets can be dropped back in the pot--the nuts will float on the surface so you can easily recover them

I've done this will a number of Lee molds when other methods didn't work or work to my satisfaction.

[LWSTARKS]

Either mold release or soot

[RED BEAR]

Not sure about outback but I sooted very well and tried lapping and polishing compound . this has always worked on other problem Lee molds but not these two . seemed to work somewhat one the 124 tc but not the other . I can not explain it. Bought the 35cal 200 grain for 357 . won't be shooting many of these.

[Outback32]

I'm going to try the liquid wrench and see if it helps. I will let you know how it goes

[mehavey]

Not to overly beat a dead horse, but what drop technique are you using after you've opened the mould halves ?

[Outback32]

Tap on bolt with wooden dowel

[mehavey]

Tap on bolt with wooden dowel

Good start ( )

Go grab a plastic mallet

(yeah, a bigger hammer)

[Outback32]

Actually it's a wooden hammer handle. I don't think that's the problem since the 44 mold works fine